On my 420c, I finally got all the way into the right steering clutch throw out bearing. The bearing looks good, but the sleeve looks like hell. Apparently, both the adjustment cap screw (on the throw-out carrier), and the opposing stud can come all the way through to make contact with the sleeve on which the whole mess it riding. Are they suppose to contact the sleeve? I think not?
I was able to salvage the sleeve with a lot of patient polishing. The dings and drag marks are gone, and the carrier now moves freely on it.
Also, as an FYI, initially, the brake adjustment nut would not turn. I was able to remove the final, anyway, but it was still not moving. I found that it was not so much rust, but rather a lot of burrs in the wrong places from a lot of years of neglect and abuse. I honed everything much as one might polish up the feed ramp on an errant .45, and I also placed a flat washer between the spring, and the cross piece. The spring was riding up into the threads, and freezing the adjustment nut. The washer stopped that.
And all the pieces are turning a really nice John Deere green. Looks good.
Gary
Throw-out sleeve question
Gary,
Neither the bolt or the stud should touch the sleeve, that is what wrecks most of them. Make sure to use a good washer under the adjusting bolt, or it will crush and hit the tube again.
There is supposed to be a washer above the spring to prevent exactly what you described. I don't know where they go, but when I find out, I am sure all my left socks will be there too.
Lavoy
Neither the bolt or the stud should touch the sleeve, that is what wrecks most of them. Make sure to use a good washer under the adjusting bolt, or it will crush and hit the tube again.
There is supposed to be a washer above the spring to prevent exactly what you described. I don't know where they go, but when I find out, I am sure all my left socks will be there too.
Lavoy
Lavoy,
I also chamfered the inner surface on the washer. That seemed to help. I rebuilt the stud, and the bolt, or shortened them a bit. I put the stud in with removable locktite, and the adjusting bolt has a new washer under it.
Earlier, I asked you about a strange clicking sound in the right steering lever. It was because of over-travel, I think. There is also signs of it in couple other spots, but everything seems to be salvagable. I'm going to ignore what is probably some extra play in the linkage bushings. I think that will be alright when everything is adjusted properly.
As to the throw out bearing, it looks OK. Once again, I think they replaced a bunch of stuff just before they closed everything with the welder.
I will probably have to pull the side frame, though. It was welded to the final housing, at one time, and I want to clean up that mess. Besides, it will make access to the brake linkage a little easier, and that needs some attention, too.
Mornings on yard work, and afternoons on the tractor. Ain't retirement grand?
Gary
I also chamfered the inner surface on the washer. That seemed to help. I rebuilt the stud, and the bolt, or shortened them a bit. I put the stud in with removable locktite, and the adjusting bolt has a new washer under it.
Earlier, I asked you about a strange clicking sound in the right steering lever. It was because of over-travel, I think. There is also signs of it in couple other spots, but everything seems to be salvagable. I'm going to ignore what is probably some extra play in the linkage bushings. I think that will be alright when everything is adjusted properly.
As to the throw out bearing, it looks OK. Once again, I think they replaced a bunch of stuff just before they closed everything with the welder.
I will probably have to pull the side frame, though. It was welded to the final housing, at one time, and I want to clean up that mess. Besides, it will make access to the brake linkage a little easier, and that needs some attention, too.
Mornings on yard work, and afternoons on the tractor. Ain't retirement grand?
Gary
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