Looking at a JD 440, and I have some questions.

[JLWhite]

Howdy, I am new to tracked tractors, and I am looking at a JD 440 Dozer for road and small brush work. The Dozer, after a test drive, had some things that I noticed, but I don't know how big a deal it is or how hard and costly it will be to fix. The first is the front of the tracks (more so on the left) looks like they are further out than the rear. If it was a tired vehicle, it would look like a front end alignment issue. The second thing that i noticed is the right side spring looks like it has a bow to it when compared to the left side. The third thing is that the dozer looks like it has some slack to the tracks, but I couldn't tell which looks more loose. The forth is about the steering. I know it's a fifty year old machine, but how do I know if the steering is going out? The dozer will turn left and right, but it feels like there is too much play in the steering levers. I have to pull a good ways back to get the turning started. The last thing seems minor and easy to fix, but I want to make sure. The throttle will move to full power but the lever keeps walking back down to a little more than half power. On an 8N Ford, it's the toothed plate that holds it's throttle in place. What holds the throttle in place for the dozer?

I like the dozer. After running it, I didn't see any signs of fluid leaks. It might be a little too small for what I need, but it's small enough for me to move around with my trailer, and my wallet kinda likes it. Here's some pictures of what I am looking at.




Thank you for any information.

[jtrichard]

#1 that's a 440ICD #2 looks like there could be some problems on the left side as you said (need more pics) #3 how much$? #4 throttle is a couple of friction washers probably the least cost on the whole machine

[Gil]

First: I don’t see the alignment issue you refer too. It would be hard to tell until the tracks are tightened. The track frame does adjust with spacers to align it, but it is not usually a problem. More track alignment issues are caused by worn idlers, sprockets, and rollers. The track frame does not appear to be bent.

Second: Track spring does not appear to be broken but there may be some problem. It has a manual track adjuster and it may be stuck or the rod may be damaged, otherwise the owner would have adjusted the tracks.

Third: See if the owner has the tools and knowledge to adjust the track tension and have him tighten it. The gaps between the pads will even out when the track is tight. There appears to be room on the track frame for decent adjustment. You want to have an inch or two slack when pressing down between the top idler roller and the front idler wheel. Not drum tight and not floppy. The biggest problem with the tracks is that they are not bulldozer tracks. They are loader crawler tracks. They have no grousers to bite into the ground. You will not be able to push out brush or dig a road because the tracks will slip.

Fourth: You know the steering is going out because it is a JD440 that someone is selling . However it runs and turns and that is great. If the crawler turns when you pull the lever half way back and before the brake locks the track, that is even better because it means the steering clutch is working and disconnecting power to the track. If you can only get it to turn by pulling far enough to lock the brake, that may be more of a problem. In any case you should look at a copy of the owner’s or service manual and, if the owner will let you, adjust the steering clutch and brake and then see how it operates. That may take out a lot of the play.

Fifth: The steering lever is held by friction washers like jtrichard said. Until you get into it at that level - get a tarp strap or bungee cord to hold the lever.

Let me add a Sixth point: It has a very desirable six-way blade. In short I don’t see a deal breaker on the crawler if the price is right; except the tracks may not work for you. Gil

[Captainjoe]

loader tracks on a crawler dozer?

[JLWhite]

Thank you. I don't have any close ups of the idler or the rollers. The bushings have not been turned, and they show some wear, but they didn't feel "flat". The current owner bought it a few months ago at auction with the idea of clearing cedar trees. He didn't know much about the dozer. He's asking $3,600 for it. I have 2 more pictures.



I have 2 more but photobuckt is running slow on loading them.

[jtrichard]

as for "loader tracks on a dozer" i have a 2010 that i got in 69 and it had "loader pads" on it someone had bolted 1 1/2" angle iron on each pad... when i rechained it i welded grouser bar stock on each pad ..... if the pins have not been turned and aren't worn to thin that is a good thing ... rail height don't look to bad i don't see "windows" between the the pads looks like the bottom rollers might be worn quite a bit looks like they are hitting the pin bosses .....there has been a stop welded on the left angle somting wong there... might just be that wrong hose on tilt ram (both hoses should go through the right lift tower on here one of them is though the left tower) maybe more wrong then that on the early 2010 they had 2 piece shafts in the rams and the ends would snap off mine have been welded and the yeyhoo that welded them got to far back on the shaft and would get into the seal so now there are small stops added on mine but nothing like that has...ITS not a new machine they can be a money pit but you could get many years out of it with minimal work as for price to me it don't sound to bad but ill let some of the 440 guys give some input on that.... there appears to be a gap behind the left track adjusting nut could be issues there ......sink the blade in the ground and see if both tracks spin then if they do then slowly pull the levers back and see where the tracks stop ... just after that point is where the brakes start to apply

[JLWhite]

I put the blade to the ground and spun the tracks, but I didn't think to try the steering levers. How complicated is it to replace the rollers?

[jtrichard]

remove the rock guards... lift one side at a time with loose tracks twist the 4 bolts off oops i mean take the 4 bolts out of each roller and slide old out and new in

[scampr]

From what i see it looks like a pretty good deal especially if your handy with wrenches and can keep up with things. That 6 way blade alone makes most of us drool. The loader pads can be made for more pushing but also think about the more you want to build them up the more stress you put on a 50 year old machine, I find less grousers and more patients tend to mean less repairs. One thing i do think you want to look at closely is the bolts on it. Lose bolts can mean nasty repairs... specifically on the frame rails and the 4 bolts that are used to mount the trans to the bell housing tube. The more things move around when bolts are lose the more damage that occurs that cost $$$$$$$$$ Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Lavoy]

Keep in mind that flat spot on a bushings it not really an indicator of wear as such. I have had more than one set of rails with little wear at all on the exterior of the bushing, but way past 100% on the internal portion. You can measure across 5 links and see what you get for dimension. 23" is new, 23.26 is 100% worn.
Semi-grousers actually work pretty well on a dozer, just not in mud or snow.
The blade alone is worth at least half of the asking price, so you can't get hurt too bad.
Lavoy

[Lavoy]

One thing I just noticed, it has likely had an engine swap, the LH side of the hood is cut out to clear a non-Deere manifold. Quite common when someone bolts in a power unit out of something else.
Lavoy

[scampr]

OHHHH i had noticed the hood and was thinking someone just did a screw ball exhaust system... learn something new from Lavoy all the time.. thanks

[JLWhite]

One thing I just noticed, it has likely had an engine swap, the LH side of the hood is cut out to clear a non-Deere manifold. Quite common when someone bolts in a power unit out of something else.
Lavoy

Is that a good thing or a bad thing. I can turn a wrench some, and my loader tractor and bottle jacks can do some lifting, but I'm still learning the crawler anatomy. And I don't have an organized shop either. So I think I'm looking at needing new rollers (five on each side?), front idler adjustments (hopefully), tighten the tracks with the adjustments, steering lever adjustments, and friction washers for the throttle...I think that's all. Worse case would be new idlers, new spring rod, and new steering clutches? Should I look for a dozer shop near me to do the initial adjustments and parts changing (idlers and steering clutches) and then work on maintaining it myself? Or would that ruin a budget?

[scampr]

If you can turn wrenches and have some ambition and a service manual I would think you would enjoy it..Are you sure it needs rollers and idlers? I cant see it well enough to see that.With all OLD crawlers you have to decide how much you want to use it and if so so parts will get by or if your going to use it a lot and will need a dozer in great condition.Those parts and wear parts like clutches can be had.. but the foundation of it could turn into a money pit if its not good.

[Lavoy]

No, not a problem, just means it has likely had an engine change, doesn't hurt anything other than the hood.
I stock all of the steering clutch parts, just got in 40 new bottom rollers, and I should have front idlers on hand too.
I personally would not pay someone to do it if you are at all mechanically inclined, and want to play with it.
Lavoy