Hydraulic line routing on a 40C and #61 blade
Hydraulic line routing on a 40C and #61 blade
I need to pick up another fitting, so can't test it yet, but can you guys tell me if I have the lines hooked up right?
That cylinder also has a depth stop setup on it. Is that technically correct for a #61 blade assembly?
That cylinder also has a depth stop setup on it. Is that technically correct for a #61 blade assembly?
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
Looks good to me, and yes on the cylinder.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Turns out I had to flop the lines.
After bleeding the air out, the cylinder is VERY slow to retract but extends fine. Is that by design, or is there something wrong with the internal valve in the cylinder? It's slow enough that grading with the blade would be difficult (too slow to rise when necessary). The engine also labors a bit when retracting, but is fine when extending.
The blade frame isn't installed yet, so there is almost zero load on the cylinder currently.
After bleeding the air out, the cylinder is VERY slow to retract but extends fine. Is that by design, or is there something wrong with the internal valve in the cylinder? It's slow enough that grading with the blade would be difficult (too slow to rise when necessary). The engine also labors a bit when retracting, but is fine when extending.
The blade frame isn't installed yet, so there is almost zero load on the cylinder currently.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
On occasion I have had the depth stop cylinders be slow to retract. Normally it is a binding or something in the depth stop mechanism.
It should bleed pretty fast with the fitting facing up like that.
Lavoy
It should bleed pretty fast with the fitting facing up like that.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
It must be pushing against a restriction or binding in that direction to cause the pressure to ramp up against the pump. Could it be something in your valve and not the cylinder?JD40c wrote:What does it mean when the engine labors some when running the cylinder one direction but not the other?
The level in the hydraulic tank is at the full mark, so it's not running out of fluid.
For me, they have always bound up some when retracting. Pull the depth stop rod out a little by hand and see if that makes a difference. The little tab on the rod should be about flush with the casting if I remember correctly.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
The previous #76 blade worked fine on the crawler, so I doubt the on-board valve stack is the problem.
The cylinder is marked a4720r. I'm not having any luck pulling up a parts diagram at Deere for that. Can any of you guys help me out?
***Update:
Never mind. Page 60-30 in the 40 series parts catalog has it.
Could I pull the guts out of the depth stop valving and still use the cylinder? I'd have to leave the stop rod in place, obviously, to keep from leaking oil out.
The cylinder is marked a4720r. I'm not having any luck pulling up a parts diagram at Deere for that. Can any of you guys help me out?
***Update:
Never mind. Page 60-30 in the 40 series parts catalog has it.
Could I pull the guts out of the depth stop valving and still use the cylinder? I'd have to leave the stop rod in place, obviously, to keep from leaking oil out.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
I don't think so, but can't swear to it.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
The problem is intermittent which pretty much has me convinced it's the valve in the cylinder itself. Sometimes the blade rises nicely, sometimes it doesn't.
I also didn't realize an average oxy-acetylene cutting torch could heat 4" X 1/2" steel enough to let you bend it with a bar. One of the two arms on the lift frame was bent more than an inch out. Was able to get it straightened. It will still need to be repaired properly, but it'll do for the iron show I'm going to this weekend in Pendleton, OR.
I also didn't realize an average oxy-acetylene cutting torch could heat 4" X 1/2" steel enough to let you bend it with a bar. One of the two arms on the lift frame was bent more than an inch out. Was able to get it straightened. It will still need to be repaired properly, but it'll do for the iron show I'm going to this weekend in Pendleton, OR.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
Jeremy,
Sent you a couple e-mails, guessing they didn't go through?
lavoy
Sent you a couple e-mails, guessing they didn't go through?
lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
No problem, have fun.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Ok....I actually moved some dirt with the dozer today. The howling noise is definitely coming from the valve on the tractor, not the cylinder. Sometimes the blade lifts up quickly as it should, but most of the time it's slow, like probably 15 seconds to raise all the way.
When we were hooking up the hydraulic lines, my buddy cranked the pipe elbows around pretty hard to get the hoses lined up. Is there any way that would mess up something in the valve? What else in there could move a bit, get stuck, and cause the howling sound as well as the engine laboring?
When we were hooking up the hydraulic lines, my buddy cranked the pipe elbows around pretty hard to get the hoses lined up. Is there any way that would mess up something in the valve? What else in there could move a bit, get stuck, and cause the howling sound as well as the engine laboring?
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
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