Hose connections won't affect it. Way back, I did have one of those cylinders lock up completely, had to be something internal, but it was completely locked up, and would not move at all, so I don't think that is your problem. I am still thinking the depth stop rod. Make sure it moves freely, you might be able to spray some lube up around the rod into the housing. If all else fails, you can buy a standard 8" stroke cylinder and put on there.
Lavoy
Hydraulic line routing on a 40C and #61 blade
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Yep. A different cylinder works perfectly, so I'll pull the cylinder down and see what's up. Worst case, I'll pull the bypass valving out and plug the bypass hole with an allen set screw and put it back together. I assume (hopefully) that the piston will bottom out before bending the depth valve rod as I'd like to leave the rod in for authenticity reasons.
***Update.
Upon opening up the cylinder, this is what I found. Note the position of the large spring.
It would seem obvious that the spring should be to the left of the large piston, but it wasn't. There is also supposed to be a small ball bearing that keeps the smaller piston locked onto the pushrod while allowing it to move on the rod a bit with a small return spring inside. I think that small valve piston would move up and close off the fluid flow instead of being held back by the long spring on the push rod until the depth-set collar pushed on it.
***Update.
Upon opening up the cylinder, this is what I found. Note the position of the large spring.
It would seem obvious that the spring should be to the left of the large piston, but it wasn't. There is also supposed to be a small ball bearing that keeps the smaller piston locked onto the pushrod while allowing it to move on the rod a bit with a small return spring inside. I think that small valve piston would move up and close off the fluid flow instead of being held back by the long spring on the push rod until the depth-set collar pushed on it.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
$15 in parts and the cylinder is back in action and working perfectly.
I had to vee out the joint where the rod meets the clevis and weld it up good. Someone did a really weak job of welding it and it had cracked.
Turns out this cylinder is actually off of a 2010 series tractor. The part numbers were good except for the sealing ring that goes on the casting at the butt-end of the cylinder. The ring I got was way too big. Local dealer was able to figure it out though and got me the right parts.
The blade seems very responsive and I'm wondering if I should track down an original cylinder, assuming that the piston would be larger and therefor act a little slower.
I had to vee out the joint where the rod meets the clevis and weld it up good. Someone did a really weak job of welding it and it had cracked.
Turns out this cylinder is actually off of a 2010 series tractor. The part numbers were good except for the sealing ring that goes on the casting at the butt-end of the cylinder. The ring I got was way too big. Local dealer was able to figure it out though and got me the right parts.
The blade seems very responsive and I'm wondering if I should track down an original cylinder, assuming that the piston would be larger and therefor act a little slower.
1955 John Deere 40C 4-roller
You see them on Ebay from time to time. Other option is to put a restrictor in the line somewhere.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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