420 JD cleats

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country53
440 crawler
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420 JD cleats

Post by country53 » Wed Oct 02, 2013 4:46 pm

I purchased a used set of rails a few years ago and the cleats were worn down so I had good cleats so I changed them. I didn't realize the holes in the cleats were important and the bolts need constantly tighten. Can I weld the cleat to the rail or is the metal used on rails and cleats high carbon steel? I run about 15 gallon of gas through "lil john" a year.

Thanks for any comments

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Tigerhaze
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Post by Tigerhaze » Wed Oct 02, 2013 5:17 pm

It would be helpful to post a photo if you could so we can be sure what you mean by "cleats". To me that would be the bars on a loader pad or grousers on a dozer pad. Cleats could also mean ice bolts put through the holes on a pad in addition to the bars or grousers.

I can tell you that rails are hardened during the manufacturing process and to build them up it is suggested to use a special work hardening rod but 7018 rod has also been mentioned. Usually ice bolts would be torqued them rather than welded on so they could be removed later, so maybe you do mean grousers or bars. See the threads below:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... dening+rod

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... highlight=

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =ice+bolts

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =ice+bolts

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =ice+bolts

I also put a thread about torquing bolts and types of nuts/washers for that purpose if that is of an issue in your situation:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =ice+bolts

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... =ice+bolts
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Oct 02, 2013 6:35 pm

There should be no need to constantly tighten the bolts, so no, don't weld them. Did you use fine thread bolts to put the pads on? If so, how tight did you torque them? I have never had a problem keeping pads tight as long as it was done properly.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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country53
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:59 pm
Location: Kentucky

JD 420 cleats

Post by country53 » Thu Oct 03, 2013 2:02 pm

I used grade 8 fine thread bolts and I torqued them properly however the holes in the pads, cleats or whatever were worn larger than stock specs. By cleats or pad I mean the part that comes in contact with the ground to harness the power of the crawler. So with the holes being to large the pads work around and wear the pad/bolt making it loose. I also used grade 8 coined nuts to prevent loosening . When the rails wear out I will replace the tracks with 350 tracks and replace the sprockets. I was wandering if I can weld the cleats to the rail?

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:06 pm

I would not weld them, seen it done many times, never really works.
I use grade 8 NF bolts, but never use lock nuts, waste of money, use standard nuts, no lock washer, and torque them til a high quality 1/2 air wrench stalls on 120PI. I have done this on pads with the holes elongated almost half again the length of the bolt, and they will hold.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

country53
440 crawler
440 crawler
Posts: 111
Joined: Thu Apr 07, 2005 12:59 pm
Location: Kentucky

JD 420 cleats

Post by country53 » Thu Oct 03, 2013 3:59 pm

Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I needed to know. :)

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Thu Oct 03, 2013 4:09 pm

On some if the bolt head has wallowed put a depression where the bolt head sits, I have use a thinner SAE washer which crushes into the depression to give you a little more meat. Flanged head bolts work well too, but hard to find in NF.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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