Bleeding the clutch slave cylinder in a Gearmatic 8a winch?

[Paul Buhler]

Hi: I'm in the process of rebuilding the clutch/brake side of my Gearmatic 8a winch. I'm at the re-assembly point and was wondering if anyone had any tips or thoughts on how best to bleed the clutch slave cylinder?
Since it spins around inside the clutch housing, I was thinking to put a piece of tubing on the "nipple" that normally extends through the "u cup" seal into the swivel fitting, and fill the cylinder and internal hose with the winch spinning thinking that the movement will purge the air without getting brake fluid on the clutch lining.

Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks. Paul

[scampr]

on that same line your thinking those vacume pump system works good.If you know what i mean its a adapter that you use with a vacume pump sucks the brake fluid out using a hose and drops into a canister. Just need to keep the master filled . NO mess...

[Paul Buhler]

Hi: Problem solved. See additional pictures below.


http://s460.photobucket.com/user/pbuhle ... %20rebuild

For those who are interested, a local machinist relined my clutch using "RedDirt's" riveting and gluing method for a reasonable price. I picked up the NOS brake band at an inventory clearance sale last year. The hydraulic hose was assembled at a local parts store - used a rubber lined hose- compatible with brake fluid. Bought the bearing aftermarket - universal PN#5120, and the "U cup" seal from PB&H in NH; $1 by mail.

Lavoy shared his thoughts with me as I started assembling the replacement parts, and was generous with his ideas that would save me money. Thanks.

I removed the clutch and brake band and sprayed the insides with "Gunk" and let it sit for almost two weeks to loosen up things and lubricate. I then power washed everything to get the oils and dirt out. Finally, I used brake cleaner, rags and a scraper to get the clutch and brake surfaces good and clean with no oil residue.

The little "u cup" at the swivel fitting had failed which allowed brake fluid to dribble down onto the big main bearing every time I winched in, leaching out its grease causing the slow demise of the clutch bands - What's that about "for the want of a nail, the shoe was lost..."
A dollar part led to a needed significant rebuild.

At this point it winches in strongly, free spools nicely, but has some issues when just holding and dragging a load. The clutch drum spins a bit eccentrically, and when a load is applied, the clutch bands catch and reel in - accumulated wear seems to be allowing the clutch to engage when it shouldn't. Next weekend's project - I hope that a bit bigger gap than .008 between the bands and the clutch drum will allow for this eccentricity>

Any way, even with the problem, the winch drags the crawler backwards with the brakes on and blade down, and free spools without a bird's nest, so in a situation where I need to retrieve something like a stuck car, it will work as expected.

I use the dozer to bring in firewood, so I'll need to get the"hold" position fixed.

As usual, If anyone has some ideas on this new challenge, I always like to hear them. Thanks. Paul

[DukeofDeere]

I'm looking foreword to tearing into mine sometime soon!

Thanks Paul for the insights!

Duke

[vtjoe]

nice work! wish I had one! my old 420 has a dry disc Braden winch that definitely needs help

[Paul Buhler]

Update:
I readjusted the winch clutches and saw that I had inadvertently mis-adjusted the inner band out of round; I originally set the clearance on both bands at the same time. This time, I got the inner one set up to an even ~.008 clearance (still one small arc of light contact at this setting), then set the outer band similarly. Now the clutch/brake drum spins evenly with no eccentricity. The clutches engage easily, the drum holds strongly with no slipping or unexpected self-winding, and the cable spools out with only light drag - no bird nesting. Lastly, I replaced the rubber washers at the banjo fitting with fiber ones and now I have a good seal - no dripping. I may need to do some more fine tuning at a later date, but It seems like I'm good to go heading into winter.

On to the current real task at hand - moving a large pine out of the way that broke off and came down in a recent wind storm - possibly with the branches and all.

[Lavoy]

Paul,
Even the fiber washers may leak in time, they are supposed to be copper washers like on a brake line on a car or whatever.
Lavoy

[Paul Buhler]

Thanks Lavoy. The manual says fiber washers, but I actually replaced metal shim type washers that were distorted and leaking. I'll get some copper washers, they should be cheap enough in the scheme of things, and easy to replace.

At some point I also need to drill out the bolts that usually hold the sheet metal brake cover, and then replace the missing cover. I usually keep the dozer and winch covered, so not a big deal, but I'm slowly bring the whole machine to a better and more reliable condition.
Paul