420c steering clutch won't release - beware adj. guage "

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
Post Reply
emmett
420 crawler
420 crawler
Posts: 42
Joined: Sat Aug 11, 2007 7:05 am
Location: Vermont

420c steering clutch won't release - beware adj. guage "

Post by emmett » Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:21 pm

Got all the parts to rebuild the battery-side final drive in my '57 420c.
Image

I'm in this spot because I hit a rock, busted chunks of the housing into the oil pan, then catastrophe ensued. For those of you who like gore... see my busted parts:
Image

I replaced everything in the final drive housing (bull gear, pinion gear, bearings, seals, and the housing too.

With the parts, I got a freebie clutch guage. Look's like it's been plasma cut from plate stainles, using an original Deere guage as a template.
Now, my brother-in-law (he's got a 40c) pops over with his Deere original guage, stamped 'JD-7', with markings (and a $70 price tag!) and looking all official and stuff.

The two gauges were different. The JD-7 guage will set the tangs about 1/8" farther from the the throw-out bearing than the freebie guage.
See the guages: Image

I decided to go with the Deere original guage. I tweeked the clutch plate adjustment nuts accordingly, then reassembled the whole thing, track included.
Just so you don't think I'm a complete dufus, before I put the track on, I started her up and saw that stuff moved like it should.. (but I did not test the brake).

You know the rest of this story.... backed the crawler out of the barn, and started out for my ride of pride.
But she decided to switch parties and become a Republican crawler... only steers to the right!

The throw-out isn't throwing out. I don't think it's even contacting those clutch plate tangs.

The silver lining is that the brake works, because when I give the stick a serious yank, I stall the engine... both steering clutch and brake simultaneously engaged. (This is not good)

My theory is that I should of used the guage I got with the parts.

Every dang time I listen to my brother-in-law........

Ran out of time on this for today, so I'll have at it later in the week...
I'm sure not excited about banging out that master link pin on the track again.
Arm's still sore from swinging the 20oz peen to bang it in.

Dear reader... please feedback whether you think I'm on the right track (no pun intended) here.

Emmett[/img]
420C Crawler 1957 w/ blade & army 6x6 winch

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10943
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Mon Aug 27, 2007 10:10 am

Yes my gauges are different from original, they are made that way intentionally. Using the factory gauge, the steering clutch will be extrememly tight and in some situations you will a difficult time getting the clutch to release. Also, when used on the engine clutch, in some situations, you will not be able to remove enough freeplay in the clutch pedal to get the clutch to release.
If you use my gauge, you will need to set the thowout bearing so that the adjustment bolt is just about halfway past the edge of the housing that the bearing holder slides in. I have done well over 100 steering clutches, and using this method, 90% of the time, I do not need to readjust the throwout bearing once the final drive is installed. Not a big deal on 40 and later, but helps on MC's.
lavoy

Big Mike
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:59 pm

setting

Post by Big Mike » Sat Nov 16, 2013 8:10 pm

So, are you saying set the bolt hallway (middle) of the travel slot?
The book says to slide the bearing out until it just touches the fingers.

Big Mike
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:59 pm

Post by Big Mike » Sat Nov 16, 2013 8:13 pm

halfway, not hallway :lol:

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10943
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Sat Nov 16, 2013 8:38 pm

No, not halfway in the slot, half way past the edge of the casting that the slot is in. It will vary somewhat to greatly from crawler to crawler, but that is a good starting point.
Correct in that you slide the bearing out til it touches the fingers, just be sure to have the steering lever back from the dash the correct distance first.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

Big Mike
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:59 pm

Post by Big Mike » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:02 am

Lavoy rocks!! One of a dying breed; not only has the (needed) parts, but has the knowledge and actually CARES!
Bought a 420c that would be a master mechanics nightmare. Just finishing the second side of a TOTAL steering rebuild.
Engine clutch is next. I will go nowhere else for the parts because I am certain to need his advice.
THANKS, Lavoy

Big Mike
MC crawler
MC crawler
Posts: 4
Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 7:59 pm

Post by Big Mike » Sun Nov 17, 2013 8:24 am

Emmett;
I find it hard to believe that an eight inch would "bottom out" the fingers. Did you set the steering lever and then slide the bearing so it just touches the fingers before going on tour??
Look forward to learning the resolve.
Big Mike

User avatar
Lavoy
Site Admin
Site Admin
Posts: 10943
Joined: Sun Apr 03, 2005 8:32 pm
Location: North Dakota
Contact:

Post by Lavoy » Sun Nov 17, 2013 11:56 am

Emmett's post is 6 years old, not likely he is following it any more.
No, the 1/8" would not affect it, my gauge is taller, not shorter, so it would be the opposite.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 64 guests