2010 Steer Clutch Shot in the dark

jsnyder7.3 · Post by **jsnyder7.3** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 6:50 pm

So I have been lurking on here for a while, thank you all for great information! I recently purchased a 2010 dozer for what I considered a good price. The right side track has no power. The PO said it has worked fine, and then stopped working. The machine has low hours (about 2000) runs very well, and UC is in great condition. I'm not new to heavy equipment, just to these old crawlers, I don't have any heavy work to do with it, but thought it would be a fun project. I have parts, service, and operators manuals for it. I'm assuming that it needs new clutches. The only part that throws me for a loop is that it is also very hard to get the brake to engage on that side. Is there anything that I wouldn't think of (sticking pressure plate etc) that would cause this problem. I figured I would check with the experts out here before I tear it apart to put clutches in it. Thanks again!

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:46 pm

OIL OIL OIL the brake band has oil on it most likely the clutch fibers are gone from oil also...... look at this http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... lutch+2010 if the brake worked good i would say the clutch is wore down or in need of adjustment ...do you have any free play in the levers? just like clutch pedal you should have about 1 1/2" of free play

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 8:16 am

Richard is probably right that the cause is oil soaking, but it wouldn't hurt first to take off the inspection plate and adjust the clutch/brake system just to be sure before you go into R&R.

When you say it is hard to engage the brake, do you mean it is hard to pull the lever or that you pull the lever to engage the brake and it takes a while to grab?

jsnyder7.3 · Post by **jsnyder7.3** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 11:57 am

When I say hard to engage the brake I mean requires excessive force. I'm 6'1" 230 and have spent most of my life working on the farm and in the gym. I'm not lacking at all in physical strength, but it takes enough force that I was worried about breaking the lever off to get it to turn going down a hill and turning into the shop.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 12:12 pm

if its oil and you want to do it where it will last for many years to come i would pull both sides and seal both input and output in both steering cases .... i speak from experience as having 2010s for over 44 years once they get any oil on the brake bands it takes two men and a boy and it still wont turn.... i know where you are coming from as i am 6'4" 325

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 5:47 pm

as i am 6'4" 325

OT: I want you on my team!

jsnyder7.3 · Post by **jsnyder7.3** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 4:16 pm

I started tear down today after pulling the inspection plate. It's definitely wet, not to mention that the adjustment's way out. I'm not experienced with the 2010s but have read the service manual adjustment procedure and know that the brake shouldn't begin engagement as soon as you touch the handle! I'm hoping that I can get back to it this weekend as long as this snow storm doesn't screw me up to bad. Started the daily soaking of the master pins so they will hopefully come out without much trouble. Planning to use a ball joint press, but will break out the ole smoke wrench if I have to. Any advice or pointers that anyone has to offer is greatly appreciated. I'm going to go ahead and do both sides now. Lavoy I'll be talking to you to get parts.

Can anyone give me a better idea of where to find the serial number? I've looked briefly on the engine and bell housing. Thanks for all the help!

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 5:58 pm

There are a number of threads we have posted about master pin removal. The ball joint press probably won't work, especially if you have headed master pins. I have found that a large sledge works best, and the idea of clamping a board with a hole the size of the pin to use as a drive punch with the sledge is helpful as well. If you do torch out the master pins, I believe they are around $60 each at Deere.

The serial number data plate is either on the right side engine block (for serial number less than 42,000) or right side bellhousing rearward of the engine (for serial number greater than 42,000). The block has a vertical flat spot the size of the data plate if it was there. If on bellhousing, it is on a vertical flat area just behind where the engine bolts up. You can get a rough approximation of whether you have an early or late 2010 from the sprockets- they had a part number change at 42,000 (as long as the owner didn't swap sprockets). Knowing the exact serial number is not critical but knowing what parts are affected by serial number breaks is important when ordering parts.

Oftentimes the serial number plate was on the engine block and gets removed in the course of swapping engines or is painted over. You may have to look closely to find it. If it is gone, then you'll have to narrow it down using other clues (i.e. part changes at serial number breaks) in the parts manual.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 7:22 pm

tiger that's right side of engine and LEFT side of the bell housing.... Jsnyder look at these pics ... http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=7806 in pic 10 you can see the plate in the right of the pic that's where it will be if you have the post 42000/late model 2010

Tigerhaze · Post by **Tigerhaze** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 10:35 am

Richard, you bring up an interesting point about the late model 2010s because I have a late 2010 dozer at my farm and I am around 90% sure that the serial number data plate is on the right side. It could very well be that someone removed and replaced it that way because you are correct that it is supposed to be on the left side, but that is why I said right side. I'll have to look the next time I am at the farm to confirm. In any case, if he checks both bellhousing sides it will be quickly apparent if it exists or not in that location as the flat area is fairly small.

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2010 Steer Clutch Shot in the dark

2010 Steer Clutch Shot in the dark

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