Possible New Owner of 1010
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
Working glow plugs are a must. You also should have a fuel primer located on the dash which is needed for these hard starting 1010/2010 diesels also. I hold my glow plugs on for 2-3 minutes, 2 pumps with the primer, and start cranking. If it doesn't start firing in 5-6 revolutions I give it a very light mist of starting fluid while it is cranking over. So far I don't believe I've damaged anything. When it fires up, it sputters and smokes for a few minutes, then smoothes out,clears up and runs great. This proceedure is for colder weather starts and in the summer a minute on plugs and one prime works. At working temp., none of this foreplay is needed. I can't see how you can get hurt at $1000.00. gregjo1948
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Glow plugs are resistors, so checking them is easy with an ohmmeter. Just pull the power lead off and measure the resistance between the power terminal and ground.
Now, what it ought to read, I don't know as that varies by plug make and type. Dozens of ohms to a couple hundred, I would expect. However, they fail open, so that would read in the millions of ohms, and then you know to stick a fork in it, because it is done!
Stan
Glow plugs are resistors, so checking them is easy with an ohmmeter. Just pull the power lead off and measure the resistance between the power terminal and ground.
Now, what it ought to read, I don't know as that varies by plug make and type. Dozens of ohms to a couple hundred, I would expect. However, they fail open, so that would read in the millions of ohms, and then you know to stick a fork in it, because it is done!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
I really appreciate all your input guys, it's great.
Fortunately the owner has a service manual and parts manual so should be able to find specs for the glow plugs.
Where is the VIN tag located? I looked around when I was there but didn't come up with anything. I'd like to figure out what year this thing is.
Fortunately the owner has a service manual and parts manual so should be able to find specs for the glow plugs.
Where is the VIN tag located? I looked around when I was there but didn't come up with anything. I'd like to figure out what year this thing is.
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- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: Steubenville, OH
Good luck AC. The guys are right, I'd love to have that 6-way blade. Lot of good parts there that I could use on our 1010.
It sounds like there's a good chance the injector pump is bad, same thing that happened to ours.
You should pull the drain plug on the oil pan and see if it's antifreeze or diesel in there. If it's antifreeze you will be looking at a min. of $1000 to rebuild her. New deck is $700 then all the other seals and misc. parts.
One thing that's odd, are the grousers that worn or are those street pads for a loader, it's hard to tell.
It sounds like there's a good chance the injector pump is bad, same thing that happened to ours.
You should pull the drain plug on the oil pan and see if it's antifreeze or diesel in there. If it's antifreeze you will be looking at a min. of $1000 to rebuild her. New deck is $700 then all the other seals and misc. parts.
One thing that's odd, are the grousers that worn or are those street pads for a loader, it's hard to tell.
Ben
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
Great Grandpa's 1960 440ICD 602 blade
Between SN's: 455,633 - 456,801
Currently Rebuilding/Restoring
I would go for it; you really can't get hurt price-wise unless you have significant loading and transport costs.
I would not get overly concerned about the ether issue; I used it sparingly in the past before I learned what damage it can cause and before my starter was rebuilt and new glow plugs installed. However I do avoid using it now as if your glow plugs work and you use ether, you can wreck it.
As for glow plugs (and I know that Stan is a Electrical Engineer so I am in no way contradicting what he says), but I know in the past Jdemaris mentioned that a simple resistance test doesn't always catch a bad glow plug and that you really need to test amp draw right when they are engaged. Feel free to read through his thread on that. To be honest with a machine this old and cheap where glow plugs clearly didn't work I would just order new Wellman glowplugs from Lavoy and be done with it- they are not too bad price wise.
You may or may not have a primer pump; my 2010 did not but I have since bought one. There are a number of discussion thread about that.
I'd like to look at the undercarriage- I can't see the sprockets too well and the front idlers look worn. However the grousers though worn or a triple bar loader pad (it looks to me to be grousers) wouldn't be too hard on turf areas and there is still a lot of travel on the adjuster so you either have good pins and bushings or they took a link out of each side. You may want to count how many links you have and let us know. The rock guards and sprocket shields are still there which is nice.
I am not positive about 1010s, but on 2010s the serial number plate is either on the right side of the engine block (or the left side bellhousing just behind the engine, although I don't think that is the case on a 1010). It could be the engine was switched out and it is no longer there, but not having it is not a big obstacle to getting correct parts.
I would not get overly concerned about the ether issue; I used it sparingly in the past before I learned what damage it can cause and before my starter was rebuilt and new glow plugs installed. However I do avoid using it now as if your glow plugs work and you use ether, you can wreck it.
As for glow plugs (and I know that Stan is a Electrical Engineer so I am in no way contradicting what he says), but I know in the past Jdemaris mentioned that a simple resistance test doesn't always catch a bad glow plug and that you really need to test amp draw right when they are engaged. Feel free to read through his thread on that. To be honest with a machine this old and cheap where glow plugs clearly didn't work I would just order new Wellman glowplugs from Lavoy and be done with it- they are not too bad price wise.
You may or may not have a primer pump; my 2010 did not but I have since bought one. There are a number of discussion thread about that.
I'd like to look at the undercarriage- I can't see the sprockets too well and the front idlers look worn. However the grousers though worn or a triple bar loader pad (it looks to me to be grousers) wouldn't be too hard on turf areas and there is still a lot of travel on the adjuster so you either have good pins and bushings or they took a link out of each side. You may want to count how many links you have and let us know. The rock guards and sprocket shields are still there which is nice.
I am not positive about 1010s, but on 2010s the serial number plate is either on the right side of the engine block (or the left side bellhousing just behind the engine, although I don't think that is the case on a 1010). It could be the engine was switched out and it is no longer there, but not having it is not a big obstacle to getting correct parts.
Last edited by Tigerhaze on Fri Feb 21, 2014 3:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
If the glow plug is closed when cold, but opens when it heats up, then you need to watch the current. Otherwise, the current draw will be relative to the resistance.
Not that it really any more difficult to stick your meter probes on the feed wire and the plug tip than it is to stick them between the plug tip and the block.
Just make sure to pull your hot probe from the Volts Ohms Milliamps socket and stick it into the high current socket on the meter. Failure to do that will result in at least a blown fuse inside the meter (or sometimes a cooked meter).....
Stan
If the glow plug is closed when cold, but opens when it heats up, then you need to watch the current. Otherwise, the current draw will be relative to the resistance.
Not that it really any more difficult to stick your meter probes on the feed wire and the plug tip than it is to stick them between the plug tip and the block.
Just make sure to pull your hot probe from the Volts Ohms Milliamps socket and stick it into the high current socket on the meter. Failure to do that will result in at least a blown fuse inside the meter (or sometimes a cooked meter).....
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
it is a very early 1010 60/61 it has the injector lines that go over the rocker cover.... as Tiger said the ser# is/was on the right side of the engine block kinda below the gen. and forward of the oil filter ...if gone there is a flat spot with 4 small holes for the pins that held it on and con-caved in between the pin holes and yes those are street pads that have had a bar welded to the center... i would say it is quite possible that it is one link short on each side as you said the bushings are wore through but front idler is not that far forward
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
I forgot that AC mentioned that a bushing was worn through, so yeah the tracks are probably short a link which also explains why the sprocket teeth looked a little sharp to me and the front idler wear. Even so, from what I could see the links themselves looked like they still had a little bit of meat left and the loader pads still had the bars. My loader pads are almost flat at this point,
In any case, a dozer with loader pads isn't nearly as bad on the crawler or on the turf as a loader with grousers.
In any case, a dozer with loader pads isn't nearly as bad on the crawler or on the turf as a loader with grousers.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Well, I rode my dual-sport bike down and paid for the machine. It still doesn't run but it'll get pushed onto the truck via small excavator. A friend is going to transport it for me. He works for a tool and equipment rental place and said when he delivers a machine down by where mine is he'll bring it back.
I found where the ID tag is supposed to be and found exactly what jtrichard said I'd find.
I counted the track plates and came up with 36.
There's a number on the transmission case--it's 13922--if that makes a difference with anything.
Took a couple pics of the sprockets--will upload shortly.
I found where the ID tag is supposed to be and found exactly what jtrichard said I'd find.
I counted the track plates and came up with 36.
There's a number on the transmission case--it's 13922--if that makes a difference with anything.
Took a couple pics of the sprockets--will upload shortly.
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
If you're not going to buy it, where's it at? I'd be interested if it's not too far away. gregjo1948
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
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