Hello and I have an engine issue JD450
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
The injection pump is leaking from the seam in the body. I pulled the pump off and took it to the local injection shop, but he said it was obsolete and he wouldn't want to tear into it without knowing if he could get parts. I think it might just be O rings. I thought I saw a similar pump being rebuilt by a board member in a thread here. I will search around and try and find it.
So until I get the pump squared away I am at a standstill.
So until I get the pump squared away I am at a standstill.
I can get the pump rebuilt for you if you strike out locally.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
Ok, every pump shop I take it to recoils in fear... they all say you can't buy any parts whatsoever for the Roosa Master C pumps. So no one will work on it.
I have the SM2045 manual. I can replace o-rings and seals if I can find apropreatly sized replacements. If there are any worn out parts or the hydraulic head is bad, I will be SOL I suppose. The one pump guy said he thought there was a way to retrofit a DB pump to the engine, but he didn't know how it was done. (Big help huh?)
So at this point I found a slightly bigger O-ring to put in between the seem of the pump where it was leaking. I will reassemble and see if it works. The one pump shop said he could test it if I put it back together.
I have the SM2045 manual. I can replace o-rings and seals if I can find apropreatly sized replacements. If there are any worn out parts or the hydraulic head is bad, I will be SOL I suppose. The one pump guy said he thought there was a way to retrofit a DB pump to the engine, but he didn't know how it was done. (Big help huh?)
So at this point I found a slightly bigger O-ring to put in between the seem of the pump where it was leaking. I will reassemble and see if it works. The one pump shop said he could test it if I put it back together.
It is true that Deere no longer has the parts, but some major diesel repair shops may still have remaining stock of Stanadyne parts to do it.ferroequinologist wrote:Ok, every pump shop I take it to recoils in fear... they all say you can't buy any parts whatsoever for the Roosa Master C pumps. So no one will work on it.
He is correct that there was a shaft adapter to allow an engine that originally had a "C" pump to use a "D" pump, but is no longer available from Deere and I am not aware of anyone that has them. There are a number of threads on this board discussing it if you want to find them.ferroequinologist wrote: The one pump guy said he thought there was a way to retrofit a DB pump to the engine, but he didn't know how it was done. (Big help huh?).
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
I have found many of the other threads. It is a shame this KenP guy deleted all his posts, doesn't help those that come behind him.
I hope that new O rings are all she needs. I'm not looking forward to an $800 rebuild (found that in another thread in a post by Lavoy)
I will change the seals and take it for a test. Hopefully that will be all she needs.
Oh, and if anyone comes behind me, here is a link to a place with a free SM2045 manual.
http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/trac ... IP_Manual/
You want to open the IP.pdf
I hope that new O rings are all she needs. I'm not looking forward to an $800 rebuild (found that in another thread in a post by Lavoy)
I will change the seals and take it for a test. Hopefully that will be all she needs.
Oh, and if anyone comes behind me, here is a link to a place with a free SM2045 manual.
http://www.getdieselpower.com/misc/trac ... IP_Manual/
You want to open the IP.pdf
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
I have located a place that sells the C pump to D pump adapter kits. They are much pricer than what JD used to sell them for.
http://www.greenfarmparts.com/John-Deer ... r69409.htm
I took the pump apart and replaced all the seals and O-rings I could. One of the local pump shops even had the shaft seal new, so that went on there too. I tested the fuel shut off solenoid, it worked as intended.
I reassembled the pump, and was going to take it to be tested, but the guy was busy and said just put it back on the crawler and leave the injection lines off and see if the casing leaks.
So I put it back on and it is now only leaking around the copper crush ring on the fuel inlet tube. However there is no fuel coming out the injection line openings while cranking. Changed the throttle lever to several different positions and tried, still nothing. Tested solenoid, and heard and felt it clicking, but pulled it out and took the plunger out just to see. Still no fuel.
So at this point I am going to go with the adapter and put a D pump on. The guy at the pump shop is going to put one together for me and test it. I just need to order the conversion kit now.
Yep, just like most old machinery, it takes $$$$. Still, for about $700 I will have an upgraded easy to repair pump on it.
http://www.greenfarmparts.com/John-Deer ... r69409.htm
I took the pump apart and replaced all the seals and O-rings I could. One of the local pump shops even had the shaft seal new, so that went on there too. I tested the fuel shut off solenoid, it worked as intended.
I reassembled the pump, and was going to take it to be tested, but the guy was busy and said just put it back on the crawler and leave the injection lines off and see if the casing leaks.
So I put it back on and it is now only leaking around the copper crush ring on the fuel inlet tube. However there is no fuel coming out the injection line openings while cranking. Changed the throttle lever to several different positions and tried, still nothing. Tested solenoid, and heard and felt it clicking, but pulled it out and took the plunger out just to see. Still no fuel.
So at this point I am going to go with the adapter and put a D pump on. The guy at the pump shop is going to put one together for me and test it. I just need to order the conversion kit now.
Yep, just like most old machinery, it takes $$$$. Still, for about $700 I will have an upgraded easy to repair pump on it.
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
Sometimes persistance pays off. I took the pump down again, checked everything by the book, pulled the little ball out that was in the shaft behind an epoxied in plug (I didn't mess with that last time) cleaned it and reinstalled it and put her all back together again. Put it in a vise, hooked up a fuel line with a little can of fuel, put a bolt in the driveshaft, and put my electric drill on it. Now at WOT (wide open throttle) that little pump will shoot fuel about 10ft across the shop!
I'm going to take it to the pump guy and see if he will put it on the stand to check the presures, but it appears I might get some use out of this pump while I track down the conversion parts. Atleast if the machine will run I can check everything else out and see just how far down this rabbit hole I want to go.
Stay tuned!
I'm going to take it to the pump guy and see if he will put it on the stand to check the presures, but it appears I might get some use out of this pump while I track down the conversion parts. Atleast if the machine will run I can check everything else out and see just how far down this rabbit hole I want to go.
Stay tuned!
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
Good luck, and best wishes for success. Sounds like a well earned feeling of progress.
Last edited by Paul Buhler on Sat Mar 08, 2014 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
Success!
Watch-
http://youtu.be/Yrec8q8aIkQ
Steers on a dime and gives change to the left, not so much to the right, takes the whole dime.
Hydraulic fluid is low so I didn't operate the loader, it was still chained up. Full fluid flushes and change outs are next.
But I'm one happy camper!!!
Watch-
http://youtu.be/Yrec8q8aIkQ
Steers on a dime and gives change to the left, not so much to the right, takes the whole dime.
Hydraulic fluid is low so I didn't operate the loader, it was still chained up. Full fluid flushes and change outs are next.
But I'm one happy camper!!!
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
- Paul Buhler
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed May 21, 2008 6:25 pm
- Location: Killington, VT
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- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 28
- Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 7:13 am
- Location: South Carolina
Ok, I have added 5 gallons to the hydraulic tank, and the loader works great. Nice and smooth with just a little play in some of the pins.
Changed the engine oil out and will see how long it takes to get milky, based on that I will either use for a short time then rebuild the engine, or go ahead and rebuild the engine. I have some pressing projects that can be done in a fraction of the time if I use the loader.
I am on the lookout for a manual (dang they are big bucks!) to try and adjust everything. She will steer great to the left, even after warmed up, but not so good cold or hot to the right.
Changed the transmission oil and it looked great, refilled and it doesn't seem to have any slippage while warm. I drove it around for about an hour last night, up hills and pushing dirt. The transmission preformed well in all speeds and ranges. Sorry I didn't get any pictures, I was too busy staying in tune with the machine and trying to feel/hear problems (really I was just having too much dang fun!)
The tracks have several loose pads, I am assuming that there are special bolts to get from JD or aftermarket to replace the stripped ones?
Changed the engine oil out and will see how long it takes to get milky, based on that I will either use for a short time then rebuild the engine, or go ahead and rebuild the engine. I have some pressing projects that can be done in a fraction of the time if I use the loader.
I am on the lookout for a manual (dang they are big bucks!) to try and adjust everything. She will steer great to the left, even after warmed up, but not so good cold or hot to the right.
Changed the transmission oil and it looked great, refilled and it doesn't seem to have any slippage while warm. I drove it around for about an hour last night, up hills and pushing dirt. The transmission preformed well in all speeds and ranges. Sorry I didn't get any pictures, I was too busy staying in tune with the machine and trying to feel/hear problems (really I was just having too much dang fun!)
The tracks have several loose pads, I am assuming that there are special bolts to get from JD or aftermarket to replace the stripped ones?
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