2010 headache
2010 headache
Well I'VE STARTED tearing my 2010 gas engine apart. It will need MAJOR work to really go. My 1st cyl. had lots of rust. the 4th has a scar, maybe from the wrist pin. Thought if I could just get it running to see if drive train, reverser, clutches MIGHT work. There was no oil to run out the drain as the oil pan has a long split front to back on the lower end. Ive been trying to get it dug,tapped, rapped. It looks like the pan sticks out in front and I have put rust cutter and tried rapping there.Triedwhat I can think of to drop the pan to see what else is wrong. Some one have another idea to get my pan off? I HAVENT used heat, with all the oill and grease afraid I'll burn my shop down. I work 12 hr days at work so dont get a lot of time on the computer. Thank you for any input and I'll respond as I can. kirk.
- DukeofDeere
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 443
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:12 am
- Location: Hudsonville Michigan
- DukeofDeere
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 443
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:12 am
- Location: Hudsonville Michigan
-
- 2010 crawler
- Posts: 622
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:02 am
- Location: Steubenville, OH
jd gascap,
I am no expert, but the first question i have is, is the motor still in the crawler? You didnt actually say it was out or on an engine stand. That being said, there are two bolts on the back of the oil pan that hold it to the to the transmission. You cant see them unless you are literally under the machine, because the sump on the pan does not go all the way to the back of the motor. If it is already out i apologize.
you may not like what i have to say next but, hopefully this will help...I have a 2010 diesel crawler, i know they are not the same motor, but the ONLY place i can find a major rebuild kit is ag-parts, and as of today, that was only 3750 bucks. i think half of that expense is the deck plate and the other half is the four pistons, needless to say, i am going to hope and cross my fingers that the plate and pistons are reusable.
Based on what you have said, it does sound to me like you are looking at a minimum of a deck plate and pistons. I realize you have a gas motor, but i would be willing to bet the prices are not that far apart, you may want to give them a call before you do much else, 877.530.4010 ask for randy, he will also need to know the crawler serial number.
You can go to john deeres website and download the 2010 crawler parts manual for free, just smile because thats the last time you will get anything cheap for that crawler haha
good luck and keep us posted!!
I am no expert, but the first question i have is, is the motor still in the crawler? You didnt actually say it was out or on an engine stand. That being said, there are two bolts on the back of the oil pan that hold it to the to the transmission. You cant see them unless you are literally under the machine, because the sump on the pan does not go all the way to the back of the motor. If it is already out i apologize.
you may not like what i have to say next but, hopefully this will help...I have a 2010 diesel crawler, i know they are not the same motor, but the ONLY place i can find a major rebuild kit is ag-parts, and as of today, that was only 3750 bucks. i think half of that expense is the deck plate and the other half is the four pistons, needless to say, i am going to hope and cross my fingers that the plate and pistons are reusable.
Based on what you have said, it does sound to me like you are looking at a minimum of a deck plate and pistons. I realize you have a gas motor, but i would be willing to bet the prices are not that far apart, you may want to give them a call before you do much else, 877.530.4010 ask for randy, he will also need to know the crawler serial number.
You can go to john deeres website and download the 2010 crawler parts manual for free, just smile because thats the last time you will get anything cheap for that crawler haha
good luck and keep us posted!!
it sounds like he has a sheet metal pan not the cast pan some wheel tractors had them in another post he said it was rusted through I though so im guessing some one has changed it.. if it is a cast pan then there are some bolts that are hard to find
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
I didnt read any previous posts about it, but if in one post it was rusted through and this post it was split....
I just made a WAG since he said split and couldnt get the pan off, i dont normally think of the steel pans splitting like a cast one would. Course i also assumed that it was in a crawler. Since i dont know what machine it is in, or if it is still in that machine, its hard to give any accurate advice...other than what it would cost me to get a major overhaul kit for the diesel motor HAHA
i am curious now what is making it hold that tight
I just made a WAG since he said split and couldnt get the pan off, i dont normally think of the steel pans splitting like a cast one would. Course i also assumed that it was in a crawler. Since i dont know what machine it is in, or if it is still in that machine, its hard to give any accurate advice...other than what it would cost me to get a major overhaul kit for the diesel motor HAHA
i am curious now what is making it hold that tight
Normally when I encounter something like this, I usually end up breaking the piece that won't come off, then discover the one bolt I forgot later!
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
I believe Lavoy (the site administrator and also a parts supplier) has stated in the past that unlike the 2010 diesel which is Deere only for parts, there are aftermarket kits for the 2010 gas engines.tlock0331 wrote:
Based on what you have said, it does sound to me like you are looking at a minimum of a deck plate and pistons. I realize you have a gas motor, but i would be willing to bet the prices are not that far apart, you may want to give them a call before you do much else, 877.530.4010 ask for randy, he will also need to know the crawler serial number.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... 010+engine
I would suggest you contact Lavoy as he can clarify for you aftermarket availability, and he is competitive with others even when factoring in shipping. It is also nice to show him support when possible as he provides this informative site as a courtesy for his parts business.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
Well. Thank you for all the help. It seems the pan has been off and whom ever put it back on used somesort of epoxy resin on all the pan sealing surfaces. The engine being in the machine getting made it more of a challenge. Between using a wonder bar to get the angle up past the frame and an old wood chisel on the back vertical part. It finally came loose. Now Im trying to decide if I braze or weld the crack that goes 2 inches hp the back of the pan full length. Back to front and half wayup the shallow front part of the pan. I ground the resin stuff off with the angle grinder and flap wheel making sure i did not get into the cast. Im leaning toward tig welding it as I do alot of welding at work. Using stainless filler with short beads. Maybe put a backer on the aback part with a heatgun putting heat on it before and after im done.
one of my 2010s lost a rod sometime in its life and now has cast/brass pan almost more brass then cast ..... before I went much farther I would fill the block with water up to just below the top/head surface and then get under with a flash light and look up at the out side of the cylinders and the main webs see if you can see any water leaking sounds like the pan was full of water and froze you may have a split block.... if so your back to looking for a engine
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
well, I nickel rod welded my cracks in my pan. Didn't turn out too bad considering. used a 100 watt light bulb to preheat and postheat. Temp was almost too hot to touch when I started. Left it on after all night. Richard, there is a petcock drain on the left side of the block. When I first cracked it open after I bought the machine green antifreeze came out, and still does. where the water came from is my mystery. The seller said he had the exhaust covered but Im doubting that. The first cylinder full of rust I thought it may have came down exhaust to #1, then filled the cylinder and went around rings to pan..? What I don't know about large engines they write books and manuals on. Was hoping to just get this engine running enough to see if the rest of the machine is worth replacing the engine for.
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