Gas engine overhaul

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:26 am

Had a big setback this weekend. I found out the tired old engine has no compresssion. I could not find anything broken, just worn out. What is the procedure for overhauling these deck and cylinder engines. I do have a service manual. What I am looking for from those that have done it is where is the best place to buy bearings and gaskets? Can I just take the deck and cylinders in to be machined or does the whole block need to go? I plan on having the valves and seats machined and already have the head off the block. Are camshafts available or am I stuck with the original? Lots of questions. Anyone have any advice?

Thanks

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:09 pm

Lavoy may have engine kits...
I would send the block in to be cleaned and see if she needs to be bored.
Crank should go in too and be cleaned and machined if needed.
Camshafts can be remachined.
New are available.

Happy wrenching,
Duke

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 2:10 pm

Deck can be bored, oversize pistons are the issue, they are for the most part obsolete. Which crawler are you working on?
Lavoy

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 4:38 pm

First off, thanks Duke and Lavoy. I have a late model (shifter on floor) 1010 crawler loader. Serial number plate is long gone. Are the loader models 1010C ?

As of now, here is my methodology. I see this overhaul in three phases:
1. accessories
2. head
3. block

I rebuilt all the accessories and had just bolted them on when I realized the lack of compression. All I had to do was unbolt them and store them away.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the head can be machined by any competent machine shop. I will copy appropriate specs from service manual and give to machine shop. I hope valves and springs are reusable. Seats can be machined. Guides can be made by me if necessary as stock is available and I have a lathe. I need to have the head checked for warp and cracks.

The block seems to be the challenging part. I will have to disassemble and measure to determine wear.

Breaking the block phase down further:

The crank needs to be checked for wear. Then find appropriate journal bearings.

The cam needs to be checked in the same way. I need to consult the service manual on how to do this.

The cylinders need to be checked for diameter and compared to pistons to determine if oversized pistons and rings are needed. Then machine bores if necessary and hone. At the very least, ridge ream and hone. Where can I get new rings?

Connecting rod bearings must be matched to crank and pin. I hope rod bolts can be reused.

I need to send block out to be cleaned and checked for cracks.

Did I forget anything?

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Sat Jul 05, 2014 10:15 pm

1010 does not have a boreable block.
It has a sleeve deck. Not easy to come by.
Hopefully the compression loss is a valve issue.
Deere used to offer an oversized piston for these sleeve decks...
I am not aware that they are available anymore.
Maybe a fresh set of rings will take care of it.

Duke

Post by **Lavoy** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 10:40 am

Valve train kit is available, rings, bearings, gaskets are available, pretty much everything is available, it is just a matter of cost.
Yes, any competent machine shop should be able to do the head. I would have it magnafluxed, trued, and put in new valves, guides and springs. Turn the crank and put in new bearings, look at the pistons and sleeve deck and see how bad they are before doing anything with them.
Lavoy

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:59 pm

Popped out the pistons and the deck and sleeves and I found pitted cylinder bores. Mostly just stained bores with normal ridges at the ends of the piston travel, but there is enough deeper pitting to require a cylinder boring and enlarged pistons. I have not measured the bores or the piston diameters as I have used this job to justify buying new micrometers. When they come in I will post my measurements. I was surprised how much metal paste and junk accumulated in the water jacket area. There were 4 or 5 large pieces of solder there that must have come from a radiator repair. I forgot to add that the lower cylinder head deck gasket is of the same style as the head gasket. Can't make that one!

[/img]

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 3:04 pm

Its been quite the holiday weekend. The first image is Friday, the second is Sunday. The last is another surprise I found.

[/img]

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Jul 06, 2014 5:10 pm

OH you have the model with the optional EGR system LOL ...... that would make it run like sh.. I would KNURL the pistons deglaze the bores and put it back together PS the head gasket and the deck/block gaskets are NOT the same

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Tue Jul 22, 2014 7:17 pm

Sorry for the lack of updates. Suffered a couple of setbacks that only cost me time. I'm still measuring stuff and collecting parts. I will update when I get everything together for the rebuild.

On another note, how do you clean up used pistons?

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Tue Jul 22, 2014 8:45 pm

Take them to a machine shop.
They can clean and measure all parts and give advice on what can be done.

Duke

DrLoch · Post by **DrLoch** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 1:55 pm

jtrichard wrote:OH you have the model with the optional EGR system LOL ...... that would make it run like sh..

That's good, sort of like you just can't make this sh.. up.

Steelburner · Post by **Steelburner** » Tue Aug 12, 2014 5:23 pm

Update:

Head is at a very reputable machine shop. They found some repairable cracks and are taking care of them. Sounds like I need a few exhaust valves also due to wear.

Finally found an engine stand after trying to make one. I have enough steel stock around to make one strong enough for a battleship engine. I found a nice gear-head stand on craigslist and made it mine. Now I have one less project!

I ended up buying a deck and sleeve assembly for an awful price and plan on reusing the original pistons. I have yet to measure the cam and crank for bearings. I'm just waiting for McMaster to deliver long bolts for the engine stand. Should be here tomorrow.

Went on mandatory overtime at work. Good for paycheck, bad for free time. I'm still making progress on the crawler though. It should bolt together quickly when the engine is done.

I also made an entire wiring harness, using the original as a pattern. I will post the process with dimensions in a separate thread.

whiteclipse16 · Post by **whiteclipse16** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 5:52 am

Good luck with the rebuild. One piece of advice I can give, I would get some copper spray and give the head gasket a light coat.
I'd also go with and factory Deere gasket.
We rebuilt a 1010 Diesel and had problems with the head gasket sealing. Lavoy told us he's had a lot of issue with the brand gaskets we used and the factory Deere gasket is the way to go.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:32 am

If you have the head in the shop, I would rebuild it completely, I don't think a valve train kit is that expensive. I also have hard seats put into every head I have rebuilt.
Lavoy

JDcrawlers Messageboard

Gas engine overhaul

Gas engine overhaul

Who is online