Anyone ever removed the front idler wheel on a 450B?
Anyone ever removed the front idler wheel on a 450B?
This is on the starboard side of the crawler, It appears that the outside bolt head that anchors the idler in place sheared off allowing the idler to eat through the cast iron bracket around it. I'm guessing that the bolt head sheered off because when you look into the axel of the idler there is solid metal flush with the 'hub' of the idle wheel. I thought a bolt was suppose to go through the bracket into the idle wheel on each side to anchor it in place.
Looking at the service manual there does appear to be some sort of axel that the idler rides on and the bolts on each side go into. If a bolt head had sheared off is it going to be impossible to remove the opposing bolt? How do I get the axel out?
I have loosened up the tracks and have a come-a-long on the idler pulling it forward. I don't know what will happen if I remove the other bolt (if possible) to get to the axel. I assume that if a bolt head is snapped off in the axel there is no way to get the bolt body out and the entire axel must be replaced.
Looking at the service manual there does appear to be some sort of axel that the idler rides on and the bolts on each side go into. If a bolt head had sheared off is it going to be impossible to remove the opposing bolt? How do I get the axel out?
I have loosened up the tracks and have a come-a-long on the idler pulling it forward. I don't know what will happen if I remove the other bolt (if possible) to get to the axel. I assume that if a bolt head is snapped off in the axel there is no way to get the bolt body out and the entire axel must be replaced.
The reason I ask is that the head of the outside retaining bolt is sheared off by the looks of it. When undoing the opposite bolt on the inside will the axle just spin because there is no bolt securing it on the other side, not allowing the inside bolt to extract. I wonder if I can use a bolt extractor to get the broken one out?
I wont be out to my property where the dozer is for a couple of weeks (I'm on vacation). I have a thread in this section with some pictures of the trashed idler assembly. Just search for posts from me. I'm going to try and complete the repair without breaking the tracks or removing the idler wheel. If I can remove the broken bolt and replace the trashed bracket that way it will save a hell of a lot of time and effort. I put a come-a-long on the idler and pulled it back into alignment from what you'll see in the pictures.jthornton wrote:If you are talking about the center bolt that goes in the axle it should break free before turning the axle. It clamps the cap to the axle. I'm wondering why you have not put a wrench on it yet? Can you post a photo of the offending bolt?
JT
looking at your pics and the parts book ( i dont think you will be-able to get the mount brackets off with out taking the track off) ...most likely you will have to replace both arms (axle- mount bracket)..... pull the outer one then clamp/grab the axle (outer end) and then pull the inside bolt you will probably have to replace the axle as well (the ends wear down from spinning in the arms) you might need to drive a wedge in between the wheel and the adjuster bracket to move the wheel forward ... i have had that bolt on a 2010 fall out (never seen one sheer but anything is possible) and do about the same thing .... bottom line i would say you will need NEW axle, 2 seals, 2 bolts (one special "very pricey" one reg), dowel or roll pin and both mount brackets
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
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- 440 crawler
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I saw your photos and you will be splitting the track to get the idler brackets (T32053) off. Look them up in the online parts and you will see a bottom lip that forces you to slide the idler, shaft, brackets off the front of the frame rail. It is almost identical to my 350 and I've had the idlers off of it replacing the bushings.
JT
JT
If you are talking about the bolts that connect the front idler brackets to the hydraulic adjuster, then yes I have sheared them off/stripped bolt holes as well on my 2010. The good thing is once sheared you can separate the two and then take the idler bracket in and have drilled/retapped.
You may want to use some heat first to free up so you don't shear any more of them.
You may want to use some heat first to free up so you don't shear any more of them.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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- 440 crawler
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"Yes" to sheared bolts. Think I have aftermarket rollers on the bottom of my machine: hex socket and all stripped out trying to remove to check lube. Welded nuts onto them to remove. Non-standard straight thread-larger than SAE but smaller than metric...gonna be machining my own w hex head.
Use anti-seize on everything!
Glad I'm not the only one whose projects take longer than planned!
Use anti-seize on everything!
Glad I'm not the only one whose projects take longer than planned!
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