Side frame removal?
Side frame removal?
Machine is a 420C. Trying to remove the bearing quills behind the steering clutches. Need seals replaced for sure, and possibly bearings also. Quills are stuck tight - looks like I'll have to remove the side frames so the inner clutch/ final drive housings can be removed.
Will I have to remove the 62 dozer blade and framework before removing the side frames? Nothing in the service manual concerning the blade (that I have found).
Thanks,
Paul J.
Will I have to remove the 62 dozer blade and framework before removing the side frames? Nothing in the service manual concerning the blade (that I have found).
Thanks,
Paul J.
420C, 5 roller, 62 blade
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
Not sure on a 420. On my 1010, I can remove the final drive housing by rotating it to clear. I use a chain fall and a come along to slide it out and then rotate. I use a rod that I made to insert into 2 of the housing holes to lift and slide out with the chain fall. Then I attach the come along to the chain fall chain to rotate in order to clear. It's easier than I made it sound. gregjo1948
Last edited by gregjo1948 on Wed Feb 18, 2015 10:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
your final drive
with my 420 I have never removed side frames for final drive service...
just as gregjo said I bent a piece of 3/8 rod into a vee shape with two one inch long stubs bent 90 degrees to fit into top two hole of the final and with proper support from above just side out and turn... be careful they are heavy
just as gregjo said I bent a piece of 3/8 rod into a vee shape with two one inch long stubs bent 90 degrees to fit into top two hole of the final and with proper support from above just side out and turn... be careful they are heavy
1957 420C four roll since 1982
Take the rear trans cover off if you have not. Lube the quill on the clutch side with a good penetrant. Tap on the inside of the quill from the ring gear side, and often you can slowly work it out of the trans and clutch housing.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Thanks to all for the advice. I have every part out of the inside of the FD housings, with just the bowl shaped housings still attached to the sides of the rear end.
I have the rear cover off, and have tried tapping from the inside, but so far no movement.
It's doped up pretty good with what looks like that old hard Permatex that used to be used on everything. I gave it a good dose of penetrant a couple of days ago, and I'll give it more for good measure.
Thanks again to all.
I have the rear cover off, and have tried tapping from the inside, but so far no movement.
It's doped up pretty good with what looks like that old hard Permatex that used to be used on everything. I gave it a good dose of penetrant a couple of days ago, and I'll give it more for good measure.
Thanks again to all.
420C, 5 roller, 62 blade
- mapaduke@yahoo.com
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 420
- Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 6:27 pm
- Location: Rochester N.H.
If its that stuck than the best way would be to get the clutch housing off. You should be able to get the side frame off with the dozer frame on, all though it would be easier with out it there. Be sure to support the weight of the engine and center section be for you loosen any of the bolts and with a pry bar work it off the rubber cross member pads then work it forward off the clutch housing should only need to move it forward a few inches.
nothing crawles like a deere
I've kept it wet for about a week with a mixture of ATF/Acetone. Tapped it as hard as I dare - don't want to destroy the housings. I think it's time to try a torch to soften the Permatex, or whatever the hardened sealer is. Don't like using a torch after running flammable liquids all over everything, but I'm running out of ideas. I wondered about cribbing up under the nose and taking the four bolts out of both sides of the side frames, then removing the whole transaxle. That is, if I don't burn the shop down with the torch first. Gonna go out and tap some more.
I enjoy problems - had several frozen pins in the clutch assemblies and had to cut the rods to get them out. Got them all welded back and looking like new, so I'm not losing 100% of the battles.
I enjoy problems - had several frozen pins in the clutch assemblies and had to cut the rods to get them out. Got them all welded back and looking like new, so I'm not losing 100% of the battles.
420C, 5 roller, 62 blade
Got 'em both off! Left one was about an hour of tapping. Right one was a bugger - finally got it off after about 5 hours of tapping, twisting and threading - used Lavoy's trick of threading a couple of the flange holes. Hope I didn't ruin the quills. Bearings and races were pitted - haven't found a good bearing yet. And of course the seals were stiff and useless.
420C, 5 roller, 62 blade
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2904
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
Everything about a crawler is slow. It is why we call em crawlers!
Stan
Everything about a crawler is slow. It is why we call em crawlers!
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
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