New crawler owner here.
New crawler owner here.
Bought a 1970 350 the other day. I have 54 acres needing some roads pushed and ran across this one at a good price. It was formerly a state forestry dozer and had a plow at one time to pull fire breaks. It has remote hydraulics but no plow now. It has a complete cage (that is somewhat hard for me to squeeze my fat butt into) and was bought at auction from the state. The guy that bought it put a complete new undercarriage on it about 3 years ago and then parked it to use when he retired. He, unfortunately, passed away about a month ago and never got to the retirement part. When I bought it ($5000), I changed the fuel filters, charged the battery and fired it up. Runs like a top first button push every time. The clutches were frozen but the left began kinda working enough to load it. Got it to my land, started pushing stuff hard for about three days and the POW! Thought I had broke it but it was the right clutch releasing. Now it turns like nobody's business on the right, but only in reverse. The left turns somewhat but only in reverse. My question, why? Both sides turn in forward a little but only under a load. Left in reverse somewhat, right in reverse will spin like a top with enough stick pressure.
Never stop learning.
First thing Welcome Aboard ...after rereading your post What happens if you pull both levers back at the same time? IT should stop/not move IF not then your left clutch is still stuck since you said it makes great "right" turns (WHAT EVER you try to free things up DO NOT USE OIL OF ANY KIND NEAR the brake band or CLUTCHES) 
MY 2010 loader i have when i first used it the left clutch was rusted solid ran great (made great RIGHT turns) but to make a LEFT turn put in reverse pull right lever get alignment wanted and then proceed forward (kinda PITA) 
MY 2010 loader i have when i first used it the left clutch was rusted solid ran great (made great RIGHT turns) but to make a LEFT turn put in reverse pull right lever get alignment wanted and then proceed forward (kinda PITA) 2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The way they work, is the power out of the transmission heads to a ring and pinion gearset. Where they differ from everything else, is No Differential. Full power out both left and right sides always.
From there, power goes to a clutch pack. This for each side. Once thru the clutch pack, to another pinion gear, then to a bull gear, then out to the sprocket.
The steering lever first disengages the clutch pack, cutting drive power to that side. Then, and this is timed mechanically inside the upper part of the final drive housing, the lever applies a brake band wrapped around the outside of the clutch pack housing (looks like a drum).
The first thing that may be wrong is the clutch pack may be rusted together. The pack is a series of interspaced fiber and steel discs. Rust on the steels from sitting too long has too much friction. This might work free.
The second thing is either water or oil will swell up the fiber discs. This cannot work free from running it.
The third thing is something broken in the linkage between the lever and the throwout bearing. Like maybe a bearing in little pieces, or a busted pressure plate finger.
I have seen where the clutch releases, and the brake won't work and folks think it that side is still under power when it is actually freewheeling. The tests JT mentions are meant to help figure these possibilities out.
Other things could be wrong, but those usually lead to no power on a track and a continual slow turning towards the side with no drive as the track drags the ground somewhat.
Stan
The way they work, is the power out of the transmission heads to a ring and pinion gearset. Where they differ from everything else, is No Differential. Full power out both left and right sides always.
From there, power goes to a clutch pack. This for each side. Once thru the clutch pack, to another pinion gear, then to a bull gear, then out to the sprocket.
The steering lever first disengages the clutch pack, cutting drive power to that side. Then, and this is timed mechanically inside the upper part of the final drive housing, the lever applies a brake band wrapped around the outside of the clutch pack housing (looks like a drum).
The first thing that may be wrong is the clutch pack may be rusted together. The pack is a series of interspaced fiber and steel discs. Rust on the steels from sitting too long has too much friction. This might work free.
The second thing is either water or oil will swell up the fiber discs. This cannot work free from running it.
The third thing is something broken in the linkage between the lever and the throwout bearing. Like maybe a bearing in little pieces, or a busted pressure plate finger.
I have seen where the clutch releases, and the brake won't work and folks think it that side is still under power when it is actually freewheeling. The tests JT mentions are meant to help figure these possibilities out.
Other things could be wrong, but those usually lead to no power on a track and a continual slow turning towards the side with no drive as the track drags the ground somewhat.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
No freewheeling. Backing up a hill, I can steer easily on both sides while the other track digs in and turns. No grinding noises are noticed, like I could hear a slight one... I'm pretty sure it's just rusty from sitting. The more I use it, the better it pushes and steers. Popped a mess of stumps with the trusty ole Ford 555 backhoe and then cleared a road today. Smoothing tomorrow and then gravel time. Sure like this crawler.
Never stop learning.
Turning easier when backing up a hill may be an indicator of uneven brake band wear or maladjustment because there is less weight on the sprockets than on the flat.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
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