JD 450 loader (newbie)

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sspony
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Post by sspony » Wed Nov 25, 2015 7:57 am

Great thanks! I'll check it out.
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egeor
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Post by egeor » Wed Nov 25, 2015 9:23 am

Is that backhoe unit a permanent mount or will it come off easily when not needed.
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Thu Nov 26, 2015 1:27 pm

I believe it can come off pretty easily. But I've not messed with it yet. Still looking for an ID tag on it somewhere.
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Wed Dec 02, 2015 6:12 am

Well I finally ordered the manual. My daily drivers all decided to have major issues the last week or so which equates to zero progress on the loader. Hopefully it's not a major undertaking to change the fluids and filters.

Another question, should my loader have one or two batteries?
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egeor
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Post by egeor » Wed Dec 02, 2015 11:28 am

In the Northeast if you plan to use the machine in the winter I would go with 2 batteries.
A block heater would also be a good investment. I have good luck with a 2000 watt tank type circulating heater. I plug it in about 1 hour before trying to start the machine.
You can feel the return hose if the water is coming back hot you are good to go.
68 350 loader
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Thu Dec 03, 2015 5:52 am

Probably will not work the machine in the winter. However in the early spring and late fall we see a lot of mornings in the low 30's. It's supposed to warm up this weekend (50ish) so I'm gonna try to get it running and into the barn. It's been outside since I bought it. I've been rebuilding my truck transmission and haven't had any time to work on it.
I also plan to pressure wash the tracks before putting it away. Is that ok to do?
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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Thu Dec 03, 2015 9:30 am

I pressure wash my crawler so that there is no mud to freeze around the undercarriage, then park it on two 2x planks so that the pads are off the ground and don't freeze in. The planks help the undercarriage drip dry better too. I have a salamander heater that I use when it's really cold (sub zero) to preheat my machine and the oils before starting. I keep my battery charged up by running the machine periodically - mostly I just like knowing it will start. This prevents the battery from freezing too. Moving it a bit will help keep the steering clutches from binding together due to moisture and sitting. If you can, put mothballs in your seat cushions - last year I took my toy out for a winter project, out of my seat popped a mouse. Paul
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Sun Dec 06, 2015 5:35 pm

Well it's all cleaned up and in the barn. Still need to change fluids, top off the fuel and tighten the tracks. Still waiting on the service manual to arrive.
I did try to shift from low to mid gear today with the loader running and it functioned. However it didn't like shifting back. Kinda weird but ran great other wise!
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Tue Dec 08, 2015 5:43 am

So where is the best place to get a track tensioner grease gun?
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Tue Dec 08, 2015 6:04 am

Hi,

Track tensioner would be any gun from anywhere with #2 grease.

Track rollers are another story. If you have older ones which need lubing every working day. If you have newer sealed ones, then you don't need to worry about it.

The proper gun for rollers would be an Alemite 4015-A4 low pressure gun (1oz per 7 strokes 1800 PSI vs 1oz per 30 strokes 7500 PSI for a standard gun) loaded with JD Corn Head grease. Those are not cheap, though. So most use a pistol grip standard pressure gun and are very cautious to not blow out their roller seals.

Stan

Edit: cheapest one I found with a quick search is $170. They do show up on eBay from time to time. There is also a 4015-B4 which is a longer gun that holds more grease, but it is meant for loading from a barrel pump and I am unsure if it will accept cartridges.
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sspony
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Post by sspony » Tue Dec 08, 2015 9:58 am

Ok thanks! I didn't realize you could tension the tracks with a standard grease gun. I'll have to look at the rollers to see if they have fittings.
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Tue Dec 08, 2015 10:55 am

Hi,

If the rollers have fittings, they are likely Button Head style. Those are tougher than Zerks, although some people have swapped to Zerks (so you might have those).

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

sspony
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Re: JD 450 loader (newbie)

Post by sspony » Fri Nov 08, 2019 10:40 am

Hey guys, time to resurrect an old thread.

When I last posted the trackloader was cleaned and parked in the barn. Life happened and it sat there without being moved or even started until this week. I'm hoping to put it to work this spring and didn't want it to sit another winter without at least cycling the engine. I must say I'm extremely impressed with the machine. 40 degrees out, hasn't run in 4 years and after repairing a mouse chewed wire it fired up without ether!!

That being said I hope to get things ready to put it to work in the spring. I was re-reading this thread and realized no one ever really commented on why it wouldn't change gears easily while running. Any ideas? Also what filters do you all recommend? Oil, hydraulic and fuel. Also what oil and hydraulic fluid do you prefer? Hoping to change all fluids and filters come spring.
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Re: JD 450 loader (newbie)

Post by Lavoy » Fri Nov 08, 2019 2:54 pm

My guess would be engine clutch disc binding on the input shaft, clutch is bad, out of adjustment, or any combination of these.
I have low pressure guns and ends in stock now.
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Re: JD 450 loader (newbie)

Post by Jim B » Fri Nov 08, 2019 5:12 pm

I have found that for the most part John Deere's price on filters is not out of line and are less expensive for some filters than some brands. I don't know what area of the northeast your in or what dealers you have near you; but the dealer I use most of the time has a sale on filters in the spring around the time of their annual open house. You might check with your dealer. If not JD I normally use Wix, which is stock at the local parts store I use. Wix has good coverage and makes almost all of NAPA's filters as well. There are other good filter lines as well, depends what is convenient for you.

For engine oil I use a good brand 15W40 diesel grade oil. For transmission and hydraulic oil Hy-Gard from JD or a UTHF meeting the JDM J20C specs. Your operator's manual is the starting resource to use to see what the oils specs and quantities you need are. As for fuel, I guess I don't understand your question, you need diesel fuel. A crawler can use on or off road diesel. A reputable fuel station, moving a fair amount of fuel, should have the proper blend for the season. Since the low sulfur fuel doesn't lube as well as the old fuel, you may want to add some conditioner having a lubrication additive. I use Howes, Power Service or Stanadyne. Some people use two stroke oil in the fuel for lubrication, with good results, instead of conditioner. Personally I would stay away from bio-diesel if possible.

If a JD agricultural (green) dealer is closer than your construction and forestry (yellow) dealer; they will likely have most of your filters and oils if you decide to get them from JD. There are some common parts between the two equipment lines so I check my ag dealer if I think it is a part that is in both lines. And always remember, Lavoy is a source for parts as well.

As you get working on your machine, you should consider starting a new post rather than continuing to tag on this one. This site now has a dedicated picture server. You can read about it on Messageboard Q&A and Announcements board. You will need to set up a user name and password with Lavoy to use it.

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