Motor timing engine 2010

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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2010Crawler
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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Thu Jan 28, 2016 12:14 pm

Hello everybody,
I have developed the engine oil pressure pump in the engine. The injection pump is still in there.
Can I the engine oil presusure pump using any marks simply as possible reinstall?
I have no repair manual for 2010, and my John Deere dealer has not really idea.
Can me anyone help, please?

Sorry for my english.

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Thu Jan 28, 2016 1:21 pm

IF and that is a big IF NOTHING on the engine and injection pump have been moved since you removed the oil pump then there is a small dot (slight drill hole) in both the injection pump drive shaft tang and the oil pump gear these MUST line up as the drive is slightly offset .... you should be able to see with a good light up to the INJ pump shaft to see the dot.... and as long as NOTHING has been moved it should be timed ......... IF you have moved things get back with me and i will tell you the steps from my book
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Fri Jan 29, 2016 2:06 am

The crankshaft has been moved to make everything clean. I imagine, to find the old position. However, I am not sure if it's so easy.
If you can help me, I would be very happy.
I am a few days on the road and can not immediately respond back, sorry.
Thanks and greetings from Germany

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Post by jtrichard » Fri Jan 29, 2016 11:45 pm

First remove injector pump then get #1 piston top dead center (TDC) firing both valves closed .... there is a hole in the bell housing (RIGHT SIDE) with a cover open it and you should see a line across the center of the hole and a TDC mark on the flywheel line these up then install the oil pump the slot/tang should be at about a 45 degrees with the drill hole/mark pointing at #4 cylinder then reinstall the injector pump with the drill marks lined up on both the inj pump and the oil pump ...open the timing window on the inj pump and line up the very fine marks on the 2 rings you will see ....then tighten the mounting nuts.....If you need a manual there is one one EBAY right now .... YOU NEED A MANUAL :) :) :)
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:02 pm

Hello Richard.
Thanks a lot for your help.
I'll try not having to remove the injection pump.
Therefore, I have a few pictures prepared, with the request that they look at you and me then lets get corresponding comments.
Thanks so much and greetings from Germany.

Look here:
http://raupe2010johndeere.jimdo.com/que ... d-answers/

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Post by jtrichard » Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:37 pm

LOOKS like inj pump is 180 out (POINT should be to #4) pull timing window and see if marks line up if so you can turn engine 180 to DC mark and install oil pump POINT to POINT ...... point to point towards #4 with #1 compression DC and pump marks lined up is what you are wanting....OR point like it is now on inj pump (with window lines lined up and #4 on compression and DC on flywheel and oil pump installed point to point ... hope you understand what i am trying to say good luck .... YOU need to get a book :) :)
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Sun Jan 31, 2016 8:32 am

Unfortunately I have not understood it.
Or maybe if the dot must point towards the cylinder 4?
Does the point towards the cylinder 4 look?

The picture I have changed, you look please?
http://raupe2010johndeere.jimdo.com/que ... d-answers/

Maybe I need but a book. :oops: :oops: :oops:

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Post by jtrichard » Sun Jan 31, 2016 3:37 pm

Turn the INJ. shaft / dot to 2 o'clock in your last pic it is at 3 o'clock ....On the side of the INJ. pump there is a small metal plate with 2 small screws in it (timing window) open that up and there i a disc with a very fine line on it it must line up with the line on the other disc then the dot should be pointing a #4 about 2 o'clock then install oil pump with dot to dot
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Mon Feb 01, 2016 10:59 am

Thanks Richard.
The description helps me. I've found yesterday that the drive shaft of the injection pump is leaking. The 2010 has stood still for about 15 years. Here, the tank has been drained.
Now I know why.
I ordered new seals and hope that the pump does not have any further damage.
If I have further questions, I would like to make this wish, if it is you right.
Greetings from Germany and thanks again :wink:

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Post by jtrichard » Mon Feb 01, 2016 11:41 am

Those seals are tricky to install be careful so you dont "roll" one of them ,, ( you will have to pull the pump) also watch that you dont lose any of the steel washers on the banjo bolts that hold the injector lines on ....I lost one and did not see that i had and that cost me $600 (damage to the pump) :shock: :oops: :evil: :evil:
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Mon Feb 01, 2016 11:59 am

I want to renew only the seals on the drive shaft. Not all pump seal.
That would not be my area of expertise.

see image 5.1
http://raupe2010johndeere.jimdo.com/que ... d-answers/

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Post by jtrichard » Mon Feb 01, 2016 12:17 pm

I DON'T think any one can replace those seals ( only talking about the umbrella /shaft seals) and be-sure that they are in correctly with out removing the pump... I had my pump rebuilt by a good company and they rolled a seal it started leaking about a year later ... And they do pumps every day....... MAKE SURE that the pump does not get turned some how when the shaft is out and make sure that the dot is in the same place when you put the shaft back in
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Wed Feb 03, 2016 11:48 am

Hello Richard,
You were right all along. An assembly of the engine oil pressure pump without removing the injection pump is not possible.
In addition, you can not remove the drive shaft of the injection pump when installed also.
I have now expanded all and will build it back together after service manual.
A glance at the fuel injection pump employs me, though.
Can you please again a photo (5.2) See?
http://raupe2010johndeere.jimdo.com/que ... d-answers/
Do you notice anything unusual?

Thanks and greetings from Germany

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Post by jtrichard » Wed Feb 03, 2016 6:34 pm

I cant really help on that question never had that shaft out and looked in the hole ... I have a pump some where ill see if i can locate it and see what it looks like .... As long as your 2010 has been sitting you most likely will be looking at a pump rebuild soon search "mouse turds" and you will see what will happen as the governor ring starts to come apart ...... if the pump has never been upgraded to all metal parts
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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Motor timing engine 2010

Post by 2010Crawler » Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:26 am

I'm the shaft seal and see how behaves the injection pump. I now know from the head, as the pump is reinstalled.
greetings from Germany :D :D :D

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