Finally got back to working on the ole 450 c. Having trouble with the left steering. In 1st low if you pull hard on the left steering it stops the crawler, to get it to turn I have to pull real slow on it and it will turn, but if ever pull the hard it stops and will not start moving again until I pull on the right lever or take it out of gear and put it back in or push on the clutch and release it.
But the weird part is if I put it in high 1st it will work right. Doesn't make sense to me.
Has anyone ever had this problem?
The dvd shop manual the pictures on the top of the transmission does not look like mine, so I'm not sure where I go to adjust the clutch. The manual I have shows to adjust it from the top. But as the pics are not the same I'm not sure.
Thanks.
450 steering
Sounds like Either the RIGHT steering clutch OR your LOW clutch in the HLR is slipping one or the other ..... Will it push anything straight in LOW? put the blade in the ground deep and see if both tracks slip/spin or stop or just one the right one stops?? what happens when you pull the Right lever hard in LOW first ???
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
450c steering
Yes it's a C.
If push something unmovable both tracks spin down. Until I pull the left steering lever then the left stops turning until I hit the right lever, brakes or clutch then it starts pulling.
Does not matter how hard I pull the right lever all it does is turn. The left will turn as long as I do not try to make it turn fast.
If push something unmovable both tracks spin down. Until I pull the left steering lever then the left stops turning until I hit the right lever, brakes or clutch then it starts pulling.
Does not matter how hard I pull the right lever all it does is turn. The left will turn as long as I do not try to make it turn fast.
Re: 450c steering
I'm having a hard time understanding your explanation, it's an old thing. Are you saying/meaning that when you are against an unmovable object the tracks will spin, pull the left level the left track stops, pull the right and it continues to turn/spin no matter how far or hard you pull it back?altonlee wrote:Yes it's a C.
If push something unmovable both tracks spin down. Until I pull the left steering lever then the left stops turning until I hit the right lever, brakes or clutch then it starts pulling.
Does not matter how hard I pull the right lever all it does is turn. The left will turn as long as I do not try to make it turn fast.
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, YOU are NOT the only one ......I'm having a hard time understanding your explanation
When pushing something that wont move do BOTH tracks continue to spin???
When you pull LEFT lever the LEFT track should STOP ...from your post it looks like yours is stopping YES?? and the RIGHT continues to spin YES or NO???
IF NO then your RIGHT clutch is SLIPPING
IF the RIGHT track continues to spin then next step is reverse the above process
Reverse the above process anyway and report back GOOD LUCK
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The way they work, is power to tracks always, so push hard enough both tracks spin. If they do not, as in one or both stop turning, then clutch slipping.
There is no differential like with wheels, so if one track spins and the other stops, then one clutch slipping.
The track stops spinning when the steering lever is pulled back. So, the Dig Deep or Push a Big Tree test ought to show what is up with the clutches.
The clutch needs to release first as the lever is pulled, then the brake applied. Once you check the clutch drive, checking the brakes just requires driving around.
The order of the clutch release vs brake application is very important. The brake is what halts the track so the opposite side can drive around the stopped side. If the brake applies first, it will tear up the clutch pack fairly quickly. And, wet clutches won't like that any more than dry ones do.
But one has to know how the clutch packs are operating first. Hence the Push Hard test.
Stan
The way they work, is power to tracks always, so push hard enough both tracks spin. If they do not, as in one or both stop turning, then clutch slipping.
There is no differential like with wheels, so if one track spins and the other stops, then one clutch slipping.
The track stops spinning when the steering lever is pulled back. So, the Dig Deep or Push a Big Tree test ought to show what is up with the clutches.
The clutch needs to release first as the lever is pulled, then the brake applied. Once you check the clutch drive, checking the brakes just requires driving around.
The order of the clutch release vs brake application is very important. The brake is what halts the track so the opposite side can drive around the stopped side. If the brake applies first, it will tear up the clutch pack fairly quickly. And, wet clutches won't like that any more than dry ones do.
But one has to know how the clutch packs are operating first. Hence the Push Hard test.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
-
Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The way they work, is power to tracks always, so push hard enough both tracks spin. If they do not, as in one or both stop turning, then clutch slipping.
There is no differential like with wheels, so if one track spins and the other stops, then one clutch slipping.
The track stops spinning when the steering lever is pulled back. So, the Dig Deep or Push a Big Tree test ought to show what is up with the clutches.
The clutch needs to release first as the lever is pulled, then the brake applied. The order of this is very important. The brake is what halts the track so the opposite side can drive around the stopped side.
But one has to know how the clutch packs are operating first. Hence the Push Hard test.
Stan
The way they work, is power to tracks always, so push hard enough both tracks spin. If they do not, as in one or both stop turning, then clutch slipping.
There is no differential like with wheels, so if one track spins and the other stops, then one clutch slipping.
The track stops spinning when the steering lever is pulled back. So, the Dig Deep or Push a Big Tree test ought to show what is up with the clutches.
The clutch needs to release first as the lever is pulled, then the brake applied. The order of this is very important. The brake is what halts the track so the opposite side can drive around the stopped side.
But one has to know how the clutch packs are operating first. Hence the Push Hard test.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Having just purchased a 450C this week, one issue I ran into was very similar but to the right track. Checking under the seat I found a hydraulic hose that was preventing my right steering lever from returning to the rest position and thus was stopping the track. I tied back the hose to not interfere with the lever. I might add stiffer return springs as well.
1974 JD450C, 2011 Kubota B3200, 1995 Kubota KX41-H, 1960ish MF135, 1970ish MF165, 1985 Kubota B4200
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,DrLoch wrote:Ok Stan we get it....Just had to do that
Of course you did!
But, I never know just how much people know, so I go all basic!
And, that Terratrac I usedta have did have a differential and no steering clutches. Just brakes. Like it had wheels. Man, that thing sped up when steering. Liked to try and fling me right off every time.....
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
450c steering
I guess I confused everyone. So I'll try again.
If I put it up a big tree both tracks spin. If I pull the right lever the right track stops, when I release the lever it starts spinning again. Now when I pull the left lever if I gently pull the left stops and when I release the lever track starts spinning again. But if I pull hard on the left to make it turn faster both tracks stop and do not start until I push clutch in and release it, change high to low or reverse, or hit the foot brake and release it then they will spin again.
As long as I make a gentle turn with the left lever it slowly turns, but I can pull back hard on the right and it will spin around fast.
But it is hard pushing something and trying to gently turn. The manual says to adjust it there is a fitting like a brake adjuster but to get to it it looks like I have to take the top off the transmission.
Hope this clears it up, But again it will turn faster in high 1st, without stopping both tracks.
If I put it up a big tree both tracks spin. If I pull the right lever the right track stops, when I release the lever it starts spinning again. Now when I pull the left lever if I gently pull the left stops and when I release the lever track starts spinning again. But if I pull hard on the left to make it turn faster both tracks stop and do not start until I push clutch in and release it, change high to low or reverse, or hit the foot brake and release it then they will spin again.
As long as I make a gentle turn with the left lever it slowly turns, but I can pull back hard on the right and it will spin around fast.
But it is hard pushing something and trying to gently turn. The manual says to adjust it there is a fitting like a brake adjuster but to get to it it looks like I have to take the top off the transmission.
Hope this clears it up, But again it will turn faster in high 1st, without stopping both tracks.
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Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
There were a couple other multi posts occur yesterday in other threads as well. I hadn't seen where that had happened to me as well.
Ok. Yes. There is the foot brake which applies both brakes together. On the older machines, the linkage tends to get where this can happen. Usually due to a lack of lubrication.
Not having a 450, I am unsure of the specifics of exactly what the 450 foot brake linkage is, but suspect this is what is causing the problem.
Stan
There were a couple other multi posts occur yesterday in other threads as well. I hadn't seen where that had happened to me as well.
Ok. Yes. There is the foot brake which applies both brakes together. On the older machines, the linkage tends to get where this can happen. Usually due to a lack of lubrication.
Not having a 450, I am unsure of the specifics of exactly what the 450 foot brake linkage is, but suspect this is what is causing the problem.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Stan, I was joking about the double post, although it looks like that happened a number of times.
Wwhile I never tried to duplicate what OP is seeing, the TM1102 manual states that Both brakes can be actuated by pressing the brake pedal. The steering are not disengaged when the brake pedal is depressed.
I generally press the clutch pedal far enough to release the drive clutches and press the brake to stop.
To get at the brake adjusters on mine at least there is a large plug on the side of the to get at the adjusting nut.
As Stan suggests, I would look at and lubricate all the clutch and brake pivot points.
Wwhile I never tried to duplicate what OP is seeing, the TM1102 manual states that Both brakes can be actuated by pressing the brake pedal. The steering are not disengaged when the brake pedal is depressed.
I generally press the clutch pedal far enough to release the drive clutches and press the brake to stop.
To get at the brake adjusters on mine at least there is a large plug on the side of the to get at the adjusting nut.
As Stan suggests, I would look at and lubricate all the clutch and brake pivot points.
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