440 Manual Blade to Hydraulic Tilt
440 Manual Blade to Hydraulic Tilt
Has anyone successfully converted a manual blade to a hydraulic tilt blade? I don't care about having hydraulic angle and my crawler already has a second valve that I would like to use for a tilt feature.
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
I have seen it done, but not seen one where it lasted very long. It is meant to be tight via the wedges and when loose tends to break.
Stan
I have seen it done, but not seen one where it lasted very long. It is meant to be tight via the wedges and when loose tends to break.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Ok this was listed in the for sale section http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... hp?t=10313 and looking at the blade it appears to be a factory unit. To my untrained eyes it appears that this was the same base blade as is on my 440. How did the factory modify the tilt part to not break without having the wedges in it? It looks exactly like what I want to achieve with my blade.
Could I weld in some spacers in place of the wedges so there is enough gap to tilt, but close enough that it would provide support under load? Say put in some support blocks that leave about a 1/16 of an inch of free space or less for blade movement?
Could I weld in some spacers in place of the wedges so there is enough gap to tilt, but close enough that it would provide support under load? Say put in some support blocks that leave about a 1/16 of an inch of free space or less for blade movement?
- gregjo1948
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 1000
- Joined: Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:58 am
- Location: Newark Valley,NY,USA
I converted my 1010 manual tilt/angle to hydraulic tilt. I had a hydraulic cylinder just laying around the shop and thought I'd put it to use. I did it in about two hours, not counting going to get the hoses. I already had an available lever on the hydraulic valve body and I used scrap iron that I had laying around. It looks quite crude but I was just seeing how it would work and I never refined it. It worked great but, it should have had some protection against brush and such but, I don't get into the woods much with it. I used it for over two years and then installed a hydraulic six way blade. I still have it if anyone would want to buy it for $400.00. I anyone wants to see pictures, send me your email address. I think it would work on a 440 also.
JD 350B diesel 6way blade, Case 580B Loader/backhoe, Farmall 504 high crop w/ flail boom mower, International 404 , International 284 diesel w/belly mower, 1972 Ford F600 dump truck, Galion 3-5 roller, Allis Chalmers D17, 1620 Ford
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Hi,
The piece at the end of the arm is different on the power tilt than on the manual tilt. And, it is this piece that likes to break, not the curved track on the blade.
It would all depend on how rough one got when digging. The harder one pounds the now-loose joint, the more likely it would break.
This does get worse when also converting to power angle, so maybe if you only do the tilt and go easy when digging, you will get away with it.
I have no ideas when it comes to some form of power in and out for the wedges. I mean besides the small slegehammer power I use with mine.
Stan
The piece at the end of the arm is different on the power tilt than on the manual tilt. And, it is this piece that likes to break, not the curved track on the blade.
It would all depend on how rough one got when digging. The harder one pounds the now-loose joint, the more likely it would break.
This does get worse when also converting to power angle, so maybe if you only do the tilt and go easy when digging, you will get away with it.
I have no ideas when it comes to some form of power in and out for the wedges. I mean besides the small slegehammer power I use with mine.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
I converted my 440 #63 blade about 14 years ago and it is still going strong. Digs out stumps and rocks using the tilt in conjunction with the normal lift. I beat the daylights out of it and it's still very functional. The wedges are adjusted and then locked in place with 5/8" jam bolts with jam nuts. Need to drill and tap the housing for the jam bolts. I also added a grease zert to the other end of the blade at the pivot. This pivot/radial gibb is a large housing and it is totally packed with grease prior to reassembly so you don't have to spend an hour filling the housing with a grease gun. I could send you pix if you like. You will have to PM me so that I can send the pix to your email address.
Best regards, JAJ
Best regards, JAJ
- JD430C
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Tue May 03, 2005 11:00 pm
- Location: Northfield, Vermont
- Contact:
I still have that dozer and will send you some pics of the tilt if you email me. As far as I know Deere never offered factory tilt on those blade assembly's, but the guy I got it from did a really good job making it look factory.
Andrew
johndeere430c@yahoo.com
Andrew
johndeere430c@yahoo.com
jds- 450B, 450C, 550, 4020, 3140 MFWD, 5200 MFWD
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