Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
I have a (new to me) 1981 450C and I am currently doing maintenance (Draining all of the fluids). The manual calls for J20A or J14C in pretty much everything. When speaking with one dealer in town, they said to use the regular hygard, not the low-viscosity. I purchased what they had left in stock but had to go to another dealer to get 2 more 5 gallon buckets. I specifically requested that they don't give me the low-vis stuff but somehow it slipped passed me. The labels are pretty similar. I now have 5 gallons of the low vis in the transmission and 5 gallons low-vis in the left steering clutch housing. I am concerned that now I only have the regular hygard left to fill the right steering clutch housing and to top of the remaining for both. I also see that all 3 share the same sump. What do I do here?
Was the first dealer right and do not use the low-vis?
Did I just spend a lot for a nice flush of the transmission and left steering clutch housing?
Can I mix them?
Am I just asking for trouble down the line using the low vis?
Sorry, All new to this and fighting my way through this and wanted to do it right. Any help is very appreciated.
Was the first dealer right and do not use the low-vis?
Did I just spend a lot for a nice flush of the transmission and left steering clutch housing?
Can I mix them?
Am I just asking for trouble down the line using the low vis?
Sorry, All new to this and fighting my way through this and wanted to do it right. Any help is very appreciated.
Current Machine: 1981 John Deere 450C w/ 9300 Backhoe
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Hi,
The first dealer was correct. You didn't really want low vis. Well, now you get to run it and see if any of the clutches slip when it gets hot. Probably be OK, though. Also, listen for significant sound changes as you work. If the resultant oil thins too much it will become noisy.
Just for completeness, the J20A spec was original HyGard and was superseded by J20C. The B and D specs mean Low Vis HyGard.
Stan
The first dealer was correct. You didn't really want low vis. Well, now you get to run it and see if any of the clutches slip when it gets hot. Probably be OK, though. Also, listen for significant sound changes as you work. If the resultant oil thins too much it will become noisy.
Just for completeness, the J20A spec was original HyGard and was superseded by J20C. The B and D specs mean Low Vis HyGard.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Thanks for the quick reply, Stan.
Sounds like it is probably best that I drain it and do it right. An expensive lesson to learn to read the labels.
Will I run into trouble if I there is a residue left from the low-vis after draining? I am not sure if there is an additives in it that are not compatible with the regular hygard? Should I pull out the filter and clean it out? I haven't actually started it up and run it through the system yet.
Sounds like it is probably best that I drain it and do it right. An expensive lesson to learn to read the labels.
Will I run into trouble if I there is a residue left from the low-vis after draining? I am not sure if there is an additives in it that are not compatible with the regular hygard? Should I pull out the filter and clean it out? I haven't actually started it up and run it through the system yet.
Current Machine: 1981 John Deere 450C w/ 9300 Backhoe
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Hi,
I don't think there will be anything other than it being a bit thin. At this point, if it were me, I would drain 5 gallons of the low vis out of the left final and put it back in a low vis bucket. Save it for later, as you never know when you might want it. Since you have not run the machine it hasn't mixed yet.
Then fill it all up with regular viscosity and run with it. This way you have only a slightly thin oil. I think this would be fine. Better than what came out, I expect. I have seen some real muck come out of machines where pure, no additive, mineral oil would have been a ultra major improvement. (!)
If you choose to re-do, then just draining and refilling would be good. No need to worry about the tiny bit left. Actually, I always put in used HyGard I keep from field tractors which still looks decent (500 hour changes). I use that as a flushing oil when de-mucking something (put it in, drive around a bit, then drain again). After using as a flushing agent then recycle it.
So, you could mark these buckets and keep them around just for that. A bit of overkill in my book, but I understand where starting over would make you feel better.
Stan
I don't think there will be anything other than it being a bit thin. At this point, if it were me, I would drain 5 gallons of the low vis out of the left final and put it back in a low vis bucket. Save it for later, as you never know when you might want it. Since you have not run the machine it hasn't mixed yet.
Then fill it all up with regular viscosity and run with it. This way you have only a slightly thin oil. I think this would be fine. Better than what came out, I expect. I have seen some real muck come out of machines where pure, no additive, mineral oil would have been a ultra major improvement. (!)
If you choose to re-do, then just draining and refilling would be good. No need to worry about the tiny bit left. Actually, I always put in used HyGard I keep from field tractors which still looks decent (500 hour changes). I use that as a flushing oil when de-mucking something (put it in, drive around a bit, then drain again). After using as a flushing agent then recycle it.
So, you could mark these buckets and keep them around just for that. A bit of overkill in my book, but I understand where starting over would make you feel better.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Yup. Thick, grey, pepto-bismol is what came out originally. Anything will be an improvement.Better than what came out, I expect. I have seen some real muck come out of machines where pure, no additive, mineral oil would have been a ultra major improvement. (!)
Thanks for your input, Stan. Much appreciated.
Current Machine: 1981 John Deere 450C w/ 9300 Backhoe
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Both the winches I serviced recently had a color that reminds me of early parenthood, and diapers...
JD 450c forestry, JD 440A cable skidder
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Crap!
My Uncle is rebuilding my 450C transmission. I didn't even realize there was more than one JD HY Gard and bought 9 Buckets, 45 Gallons of the Low Viscosity. Maybe I can exchange but I bought it off eBay because a Local Deere parts guy gave me a bogus brice of $1440 for 40 Gallons.
![Shocked :shock:](./images/smilies/icon_eek.gif)
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Ouch, $180 per 5 gallons, I bet the dealer probably did quote that much. I'm getting the hygard @ $45ish and plain 303 @ $38ish at the mart of walls.
EDIT: Math, I fail at it. $36 gal, $160 bucket. Still icky.
EDIT: Math, I fail at it. $36 gal, $160 bucket. Still icky.
Last edited by psprague on Tue Jul 10, 2018 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
JD 450c forestry, JD 440A cable skidder
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2898
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: Regular Hy-Gard or Low Viscosity Hy-Gard
Hi,
Something wrong there. I just bought a 5 gal pail. The Deere dealer list price is 77.08 and my dealer price is 70.28 for one pail. So, no quantity discount which would drop it a tad more.
Stan
Something wrong there. I just bought a 5 gal pail. The Deere dealer list price is 77.08 and my dealer price is 70.28 for one pail. So, no quantity discount which would drop it a tad more.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
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