Icy Hydraulics
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Icy Hydraulics
My 40c has been outdoors for a few months while I used my heated space for other projects. Finally went to move it inside a few days ago and the blade wouldn't lift. I jacked up the blade, chained it in place and moved the crawler inside. Tried it yesterday and hydraulics were back to normal. Probably ice somewhere in the system but where would the water come from? Condensation? Do I just change the fluid and carry on or is there something special I should do to make sure there is no water left in the system?
have 40c 4 roller crawler, 1927 Ford T Touring car, 1931 Ford A Roadster, 1951 Standard Vanguard Saloon. Never a dull moment!
Re: Icy Hydraulics
Change the fluid, which will help, but you don't get all of it out. From what I have found, Seafoam can be used in hyd systems to reduce or help with moisture. You need to get the hyd oil hot which is hard to do.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Re: Icy Hydraulics
I've gone through this on my 40 and 420. I think it's condensation mostly. I ended up pulling the tanks on mine in both cases and draining them and then rinsing with diesel. That won't get all the milky oil out but it gets most of it. My machines don't have sheds most of the time. Good idea to let it sit for a while and crack the drain plug on the tranny too. If water comes out or the fluid is milky you should change it too.
40C, 420C, 1010C-L-BH, Cat D4
- DukeofDeere
- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 443
- Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 7:12 am
- Location: Hudsonville Michigan
Re: Icy Hydraulics
Top of the tank where the suction pipe comes in and top of the pump can allow water into the system as well as condensation.
Duke
Duke
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Re: Icy Hydraulics
Thanks guys. I think I'll just change the fluid and flush the tank. I normally keep the crawler in a heated building in cold weather so it should be ok.
have 40c 4 roller crawler, 1927 Ford T Touring car, 1931 Ford A Roadster, 1951 Standard Vanguard Saloon. Never a dull moment!
Re: Icy Hydraulics
John Deere's instructions were to drain the tank every spring and fall, refill with kerosene and run the engine to flush the pump and valve body (don't use any levers), then drain and refill with clean oil.
I ignored them because it seemed like a waste of oil and the drain plug is hard to reach. After several years of battles of trying to unfreeze the system I finally relented. But I don't do the kerosene flush, just drain and refill. My plan is to use ISO 32 or 46 for winter (easier on the pump) and replace with 46 or 68 for summer (won't leak as much).
To make the process easier, I replaced the drain plug with a street elbow, pipe nipple, and ball valve with the handle cut off. Now all I have to do is scoot a drain pan under, put a socket and long extension down behind the footrest, and open the valve by the nut that secures the handle.
I ignored them because it seemed like a waste of oil and the drain plug is hard to reach. After several years of battles of trying to unfreeze the system I finally relented. But I don't do the kerosene flush, just drain and refill. My plan is to use ISO 32 or 46 for winter (easier on the pump) and replace with 46 or 68 for summer (won't leak as much).
To make the process easier, I replaced the drain plug with a street elbow, pipe nipple, and ball valve with the handle cut off. Now all I have to do is scoot a drain pan under, put a socket and long extension down behind the footrest, and open the valve by the nut that secures the handle.
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