Trans-reverser joiner-stud snap :( how the F...

[AddamsonFlint]

If anyone has knowledgeable insight and some good news that I'm not totally f*cked, it would make my day and be hugely appreciated.

The part in the pic is about 4" long. Other 3 bolts are tight. I've been in hyd pump/system upgrade the past 3 weeks, but my reverser was running the same right before I put it up on blocks. It has fresh fluid and a good filter.

The reverser as always had a baby whine in it, when put in reverse, every since I've had it (3 yrs). The sound hasn't gotten any better or worse, and don't know if that's related.


So my questions are:

1- Is that whine resultant from shaft play/vibration in the intermediate shaft, splines, coupler, etc?

2- If it is, does that insta-mean the nuclear option of having to pull the back half off nightmare of a job?

3- Even if it isn't related, am I still f*cked?

4- If it's not related, any idea what the whine is?

5- Lastly, if I don't have to go down the scary path, how should I attack that broken stud? Maybe reverse tap it and put a bolt it?


Way thankful in advance for any input.

Here's a pic:



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MTG4QZ ... sp=sharing

[B Town]

I have heard/read that the whine is present on quite a few machine and is usually acceptable.

I believe it is very important to keep all the bolts tight. Bad news about the stud breaking. I would definitely favor removing the broken stud and replacing.

Tons of different ways/ideas about how to remove broken fasteners. Here is a link to ICWeld on how he handles fasteners broken deeply in a hole.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tL_oLlnMh6k

Best regards, Bruce

[jsal]

had same situation was able to remove with Milwaukee angle drill and a lot of patients

jim

[Jim B]

If you can't get the broken stud out without a tear down, the normal approach is from the front (engine) back. I would replace both studs and the capscrews that hold that joint together, they have all likely been stressed. Use the proper hardware from JD to replace them.

[AddamsonFlint]

Wow, the insight on many fronts.

B Town, that video was amazing and ingenious- my hat's off to the dude that thought that up. What freakin ninja. I might be able to do that.

I also heard from what I consider a very knowledgeable guy, that I didn't have to worry about the whine too much. Without looking a gift horse too much in the mouth- what would it take to remedy it? Dare I ask...

Jsal, angle-drilling for eons....gawd, just the thought is enough lol.

And Jim B, I hadn't even thought about the stress angle- but obviously that's completely on-point. Thank you for that.

Yeah, I'll have to pull the part #'s and get them on order.

2 and 2, right? (studs and caps respectively) I'm not missing any, am I? Don't wanna do that lol.

[jsal]

if you do take it apart make sure to put new splined coupling in

[AddamsonFlint]

If you can't get the broken stud out without a tear down, the normal approach is from the front (engine) back. I would replace both studs and the capscrews that hold that joint together, they have all likely been stressed. Use the proper hardware from JD to replace them.

I think I've got the right parts here, but wanted to double-check. Nothing like being certain, just to find you're certainly wrong.



https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mVkJ2e ... sp=sharing

[Jim B]

Looks right. If you can't get use the JD washers, I would suggest getting some Grade 8 washers.

[AddamsonFlint]

Awesome sir, and thank you again for the help. Greatly appreciated.