Engine Clutch
Engine Clutch
Hi all
I have an issue with my engine clutch on my 40c. This is my take on it. When there is no load on the trans ( in neutral clutch engaged, input shaft is the only thing spinning) there is just enough drag between the pressure plate and clutch disk that it takes around a 5 count for the shaft to stop spinning so I can engage the gears. I confirm this by engaging the PTO so I can visually see when it stops spinning. It works fine when in gear and switching gears as there is obviously more load on the shaft with everything engaged, and even having it in gear and switching to neutral with the clutch engaged is fine aswell as everything is already stopped. It only happens when you leave it in neutral with clutch not engaged, then engaging the clutch to shift into gear. I set the clutch using the gauge (jd7 I think it's called). The clutch and pressure plate are not brand new but did measure very very close to OEM and looked to be in very good shape so I did not replace it. Free play on the pedal is set to specs in the maintenance manual. For whatever reason I think I am going to have to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate ever so slightly. I am wonder if anyone would have a recommendation on how far to adjust it. I was thinking 1/8" or so. Of anyone has other ideas or suggestions I would be glad to hear them. I suppose the clutch with eventually wear enough for it to work as it's very close....
Thanks
I have an issue with my engine clutch on my 40c. This is my take on it. When there is no load on the trans ( in neutral clutch engaged, input shaft is the only thing spinning) there is just enough drag between the pressure plate and clutch disk that it takes around a 5 count for the shaft to stop spinning so I can engage the gears. I confirm this by engaging the PTO so I can visually see when it stops spinning. It works fine when in gear and switching gears as there is obviously more load on the shaft with everything engaged, and even having it in gear and switching to neutral with the clutch engaged is fine aswell as everything is already stopped. It only happens when you leave it in neutral with clutch not engaged, then engaging the clutch to shift into gear. I set the clutch using the gauge (jd7 I think it's called). The clutch and pressure plate are not brand new but did measure very very close to OEM and looked to be in very good shape so I did not replace it. Free play on the pedal is set to specs in the maintenance manual. For whatever reason I think I am going to have to adjust the fingers on the pressure plate ever so slightly. I am wonder if anyone would have a recommendation on how far to adjust it. I was thinking 1/8" or so. Of anyone has other ideas or suggestions I would be glad to hear them. I suppose the clutch with eventually wear enough for it to work as it's very close....
Thanks
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Re: Engine Clutch
Not to nit pick but your description is a little confusing. When you push the pedal in the clutch should be dis-engaged, when you let the pedal out, the clutch should engage. That aside, before you tear things apart, are you sure that your idle speed is not too high? This can make the time lag between when you disengage the clutch and the transmission stops spinning a little longer due to the momentum of the moving parts. Good luck!
have 40c 4 roller crawler, 1927 Ford T Touring car, 1931 Ford A Roadster, 1951 Standard Vanguard Saloon. Never a dull moment!
Re: Engine Clutch
The transmission is just gears, no syncros, so you need to give it a few seconds to stop turning after you push the clutch. The lag is not as long between gears as at an initial engagement or going from forward to reverse.
Re: Engine Clutch
I also don't understand what you are asking, but adjusting the fingers to an incorrect height will accomplish nothing if you are able to adjust the pedal to the correct freeplay.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
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- 1010 crawler
- Posts: 258
- Joined: Wed Sep 11, 2013 3:34 pm
- Location: Shiner, texas
Re: Engine Clutch
If you know your fingers are set evenly then just live with it. There are other reasons for delay but if it is only a delay and not "forever". Count your blessings while you wait. A slightly warped plate, "swollen" spot, or worn splines can have the much longer effect. Wish mine was only five.
Early 40C w/Yakima toolbar and homebuilt ripper: 350 w/6-way
Re: Engine Clutch
Thank you very much for the responses, this is just what I needed to hear. I know I have done everything the proper way and I followed the maintenance manual as well as advise from this message board. My thought is someone much smarter than me put the manual together, use it.
Unfortunately the thing I lack is any knowledge of how these things actually run. It was my father's and I might have seen it running a handful of times when I was younger.
I suppose I asked the wrong question. But if this is kind of how it can be and is not uncommon I'm absolutely fine with that. It is not something that really bothers me but if there was a - this is exactly what it is - sort of thing I would have looked at it. Really appreciate the responses and appreciate Lavoy for this board and all the parts he helped me with putting this thing back together.
Unfortunately the thing I lack is any knowledge of how these things actually run. It was my father's and I might have seen it running a handful of times when I was younger.
I suppose I asked the wrong question. But if this is kind of how it can be and is not uncommon I'm absolutely fine with that. It is not something that really bothers me but if there was a - this is exactly what it is - sort of thing I would have looked at it. Really appreciate the responses and appreciate Lavoy for this board and all the parts he helped me with putting this thing back together.
Re: Engine Clutch
On occasion, a bad pilot bearing can also cause the shaft to drag a little bit, but I think you looked at that if I remember correctly.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
- Stan Disbrow
- 350 crawler
- Posts: 2899
- Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 3:13 pm
- Location: Raleigh, NC
Re: Engine Clutch
Hi,
Every M, 40, 420, etc I have been around does this. It is the slight drag of the pilot shaft in the bushing coupled with the rotational inertia of the shafts and gears in the transmission. They always take about three seconds to engage a gear from neutral.
It is when they never spin down when you have to deal with it. It is usually not the clutch, but the oilite bronze pilot shaft bushing causing the issue.
Stan
Every M, 40, 420, etc I have been around does this. It is the slight drag of the pilot shaft in the bushing coupled with the rotational inertia of the shafts and gears in the transmission. They always take about three seconds to engage a gear from neutral.
It is when they never spin down when you have to deal with it. It is usually not the clutch, but the oilite bronze pilot shaft bushing causing the issue.
Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)
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- 440 crawler
- Posts: 223
- Joined: Sun Oct 27, 2013 8:41 am
- Location: Saint John, NB, Canada
Re: Engine Clutch
You are right Stan. My 40 does this too. I have played with older vehicles with non-synchro transmissions all my life and I guess I have just taken this characteristic for granted and pausing a few seconds before engaging low gear became "second nature", something like the pause between low and 2nd and 2nd and high in any old car with no synchro. Downshifts take a little more practice. Just as a side note, I have a 1951 Standard Vanguard (a British sedan built by the same company that made Triumph sportscars and uses the same engine as a Ferguson TEA20 tractor) that has synchro on all 3 forward gears including low. Throws people when you can shift into low at 10 miles and hour! (literally throws them if you let the clutch out quick on the downshift) The only other car that I have that can do that is my Model T Ford but that's a different system altogether.
have 40c 4 roller crawler, 1927 Ford T Touring car, 1931 Ford A Roadster, 1951 Standard Vanguard Saloon. Never a dull moment!
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