moving a machine.
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Lamoine, Maine
moving a machine.
My 1010c sat all summer and will not start. I'd like to move it into the shop before snow starts falling.
I was thinking of removing the outside blade and moving it out of the way, then towing it via chain to the shop door (60-80 feet away). Getting it into the shop has left me scratching my head. It's not a drive through building.
I could possibly fab something so I could push the machine into the shop. I have a Fisher minute mount on my ton truck. Maybe a push bar/face that slides into the frame receiver?
How have you people moved non running crawlers around?
I was thinking of removing the outside blade and moving it out of the way, then towing it via chain to the shop door (60-80 feet away). Getting it into the shop has left me scratching my head. It's not a drive through building.
I could possibly fab something so I could push the machine into the shop. I have a Fisher minute mount on my ton truck. Maybe a push bar/face that slides into the frame receiver?
How have you people moved non running crawlers around?
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch
Usually I use another crawler, but they will two fairly well. If you get the crawler lined up in a straight line with the shop, you can put a piece of timber between the front or rear of the crawler and you plow mount and push it it. Another trick is to put a log chain through a section of pipe, you can push this way too.
Lavoy
Lavoy
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Lamoine, Maine
When I poured the floor for this building I was planning on setting a substantial concrete anchor point into the earth at the wall opposite the bay door. Something I could use to winch in cars, trucks, etc. In the rush to get the building up I skipped it.
Kicking myself now.........
Kicking myself now.........
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch
I am in the process of planning my machine shed.....thanks for the good idea!brettjones wrote:When I poured the floor for this building I was planning on setting a substantial concrete anchor point into the earth at the wall opposite the bay door. Something I could use to winch in cars, trucks, etc.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Lamoine, Maine
That's a good idea Lavoy.
I'm hesitant to drill into the floor due to the radiant tubing in it. I have access to a thermal imaging camera so I could map the tubing and drill around it, but I'm still worried I'd fracture the concrete and bust a tube.
I will be doing an addition on the back wall of the shop at some point. I'll do the anchor in that floor and run a heavy chain through the wall.
As to moving the 1010, I'll be doing it next Monday. I'm sure I'll pull something out of my hat and get it done.
I'm hesitant to drill into the floor due to the radiant tubing in it. I have access to a thermal imaging camera so I could map the tubing and drill around it, but I'm still worried I'd fracture the concrete and bust a tube.
I will be doing an addition on the back wall of the shop at some point. I'll do the anchor in that floor and run a heavy chain through the wall.
As to moving the 1010, I'll be doing it next Monday. I'm sure I'll pull something out of my hat and get it done.
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch
- FarmLife
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 98
- Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2007 8:55 pm
- Location: Saint Clair, Michigan
- Contact:
Depending on the size of your building and the size of your door you can pull it in as far as you can with a small tractor or whatever else can move it. Then push the dozer in as close to the wall as possible and drive the tractor out behind it. Now if you are working in a single bay this would be difficult but a doubel bay you should be able to work something out. With your MC we were able to push it with the bumper on the small tractor into the shop.
1934 GP Beaner
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420
1935 B
1935 AR
1935 AO
1936 B
1936 D
1935 A on skeletons
1937 A w/behlen overdrive
1939 B
1940 B
1941 H
1949 M
1954 40 Standard
1953 60 Regular
1955 70 Std Diesel
1954 80
1946 Lindeman
Phase 1 420
- Davie Sprocket
- 430 crawler
- Posts: 71
- Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 11:37 am
- Location: Leduc Alberta, Canada
Dozer Move
Try getting it up on some round logs or pipes. the friction will go away and any small vehicle will push it. Make sure to hook a chain on so it dosen't roll away from you and you now have a drive through garage.
JR
JR
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Lamoine, Maine
It's a good sized building (38x40) with a 10' tall X 12' wide bay door on the left side of the gable end. Like most shops it's full of stuff (welders, tool boxes, a couple of lathes, a mill, stuff, etc, etc, etc) and a future project car ('78 Datsun z car). There's plenty of room to dig into the 1010 once it's in, but not enough to get around it with the tow rig ('86 GMC 4x4 dually ton).
Once it's in front of the bay door, it's going to have to be a pushing job. I'm going to try and keep it simple and use the plow on the GMC to push it in. I have a winch on the 1010 to push against, so I'll just pad the contact points with some timbers and see how it works. I just need to push squarely to spare the plow blade and frame.
Once it's in front of the bay door, it's going to have to be a pushing job. I'm going to try and keep it simple and use the plow on the GMC to push it in. I have a winch on the 1010 to push against, so I'll just pad the contact points with some timbers and see how it works. I just need to push squarely to spare the plow blade and frame.
JD 1010c, outside blade, winch
-
- MC crawler
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2007 8:29 pm
- Location: Fine,N.Y.
moving a machine
Hi Brett I had a problem moving my 430c, not in to a building off the trailer and 200 ft. The slickest thing is two pieces of the plastic mowboard that is used on the snowplows that the highway depts use.Slides nice on grass,frozen ground and wont hurt concrete might leave an orange stain. It worked for me. Dean
- DiggerLarry
- 440 crawler
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Tue Apr 12, 2005 7:35 am
- Location: Charlotte, NC
- Contact:
I have the same setup, one door. I have an old wagon tounge with another hitch (flat barstock) welded on the wagon end of it. I can hitch two together and SAFELY push or pull the dead one any where. You could make one yourself from a piece of 1 1/2x2 or 2x3 sq. tubing about 4 ft long with some barstock welded to the ends and then drill a 3/4 holes for the hitch pins. It's one of the best tools I have.
-
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 am
- Location: Lamoine, Maine
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 112 guests