converting 1010 to an altenator

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Joe Iannitto
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converting 1010 to an altenator

Post by Joe Iannitto » Tue Aug 22, 2006 5:26 pm

The electrical of my 1010 was altered before I got it. The former owner converted it to electronic ignition and hence went from a positive ground to a negative ground. I think in the process he distroyed the voltage regulator and generator being that the generator would have been polorized for a positive ground. I have a single wire GM altenator with internal regulator and I would like to install it on the 1010. Has anyone done such a conversion?
Yhanks,
Joe

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emichaelhaynes
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10si 3 wire alternator

Post by emichaelhaynes » Tue Aug 22, 2006 8:03 pm

i used a three wire alternator for my 440icd. the regulator is built in so that's one less thing you have to worry about. standard part number for a rebuilt is 7127. walked into an autozone and plopped down $45 for the gizmo and $15 for the gizmo core charge.

I got most of my info from an article in ytmag:

http://www.ytmag.com/articles/artint131.htm

works pretty much as claimed... pulleys on a dd 2-53 are pretty small so output at idle is pretty low, but it does work.

you can get the plug with the diode in it already made up from a guy in ebay for 10.50 plus postage. check out auction # 180008494363 .

if you got an honest to goodness 1 wire alternator you need to connect the battery terminal to the battery and nothing else.

another source of 1 wire/ 3 wire info:

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/10si.htm

as for the mechanical mount i've machined and welded up my own. the original generator bracket had some 'more' brass and was useful only for the bolt pattern where it mounted to the engine block.

all of which reminds me... the motor ran for the first time in who knows how long yesterday. we be popping corks tonight!

michael

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wizner85
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Post by wizner85 » Mon Nov 04, 2013 10:39 am

This information in excellent, but I still have 1 question:

With the 3 wire altenator, is a voltage regulator still required. I am assuming the answer is no, since everything mentioned in the article(s) states the volt regulator is internal to the Altenator.

Does this mean all Altenators have internal Volt Regulators??

The only reason I ask is that the tractor I have came with an Altenator, and still have wires "Hooked Up" to a 6 volt regulator.

Amazing how these old girls are hob cobbled together and still run.

Thanks - Andrew

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Nov 04, 2013 12:59 pm

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-b ... &th=816120 shows how to wire an internal regulated delco alternator "not one wire" which is better than a one wire some times one wires wont charge at a low RPM.... http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 957,436964 shows the difference between the alternators that have internal regulator and older ones that have an external regulator
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Nov 04, 2013 3:35 pm

I stock a small case Denso style 40 amp alternator that charges well at lower RPM.
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gregjo1948
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Post by gregjo1948 » Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:55 am

winzer85--No! I don't believe that all alternatos have an internal regulator. We can't tell you if yours does if we don't know who manufactured it. gregjo1948
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:35 am

One quick way on GM is if the terminals are parallel, it is external, if they are in line, then it is internally regulated. Even if it is internally regulated, it will not be self-energizing unless specifically purchased that way. From the factory, all of them were externally excited. It is only in later years that they started putting self-energizing regulators in the 10SI Delco's for retrofit applications.
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wizner85
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Post by wizner85 » Tue Nov 05, 2013 10:43 am

I'll get a picture of it tonight and upload it tonight or tomorrow. What happens if the Alt is not internally regulated, and you do not use a voltage regulator? Will this blow the coil? Start a fire? Or mess up the battery?

Thanks for the help, I just want to do it right.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:44 pm

Without a regulator, they won't charge.
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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Tue Nov 05, 2013 2:45 pm

Hi,

If it needs an external regulator and you leave it off, you get nothing out of the alternator.

If you connect battery straight to the field connection, it will produce full current and damage both the alternator and the battery....

Stan
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wizner85
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Post by wizner85 » Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:41 am

Link to my Altenator. Is it internally regulated?

http://s758.photobucket.com/user/wizner ... 7980623954

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Wed Nov 06, 2013 12:16 pm

YES it has a built in regulator ....but for it to work you need the loose wire hooked to a idiot light or a diode as in the link i put above... here it is again ...... http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-b ... &th=816120
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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wizner85
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Post by wizner85 » Wed Nov 06, 2013 2:19 pm

Thanks JT - I will re read everything so I do it correctly.

I guess I don't understand why they would of had the volt regulator still wired to the Altenator if it was internally regulated...... (maybe they didn't understand the wiring like me, but at least I asked first).

I will probably buy a diode at Napa and wire it in since all the wiring is being redone.

Thanks for all the help on this.

Hoping for no white smoke, or sparks as I do this.

Andrew

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:47 pm

they may have just used the old reg. for a junction block for the battery wire and not hooked any thing else up ...i have a 2010 with the reg still in it because its hard as hell to get it out so why bother lol :lol:
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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