Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

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ngilles
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Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by ngilles » Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:06 am

Hello,
I just purchased a 555A crawler loader. I'm new to crawlers and John Deere's. I believe my machine sat outside quite a bit. I see very milky white hydraulic fluid in my reservoir sight glass and want to drain the system.

In the specs sheet I found, it lists John Deere JD Hy-Gard Type J20C for both the transmission and hydraulic system.

Could you tell me are those both the same reservoir of fluid or does the transmission and hydraulic have independent fluid reservoirs?

What would be the best place (I'm assuming lowest point) to drain both of those from?

Thanks for your help, I've ordered a shop manual, not here yet and I've got time to get at it today.
Have a great weekend,
Nick
555A Trackloader
Lx565 New Holland Skid Loader
D14 Allis Chalmers 1959

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Stan Disbrow
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by Stan Disbrow » Sun Sep 16, 2018 8:21 am

Hi,

These have separate hydraulics and trans. The hydraulic tank is on the right hand side. IIRC, the filler cap and sight glass is on the back side of the 550 and 555. The drain will be under the tank, and above the track.

The trans drain will be on the bottom of the trans case, towards the rear. The finals on the inside at the bottom of each. You drain the trans first, then each final. IIRC, it is all one reservoir, but you'll need a big catch pan for the trans. Not much room at the finals, so a smaller pan will do if the trans doesn't have to drain thru there as well.

Now, how you do any of those three with the counterweights in place, I don't know. I think they have to come off first.

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside manual blade
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ngilles
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by ngilles » Sun Sep 16, 2018 1:45 pm

Thanks Stan for the thoughts. My filler is under the right side cover. I open the lid on the right side (under the armrest just behind the bucket control lever) and under that cover there's the tank, return, filler, filter and loader valve body. The sight glass is on the right side (outside) of the reservoir tank. I don't see any kind of drain on the tank at all. If I lift off the seat, I can see a line that must be at least 1.5" in dia. coming out of the bottom of the tank and turning down along and under the trans area. I've not yet had the belly pan off, I'm guessing it goes down there to the hyd. pump, i'm guessing driven off the torque converter gear. I don't know if there's a drain down there.
555A Trackloader
Lx565 New Holland Skid Loader
D14 Allis Chalmers 1959

B Town
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by B Town » Sun Sep 16, 2018 2:10 pm

I believe the two systems are separate, also. The 1.5" hose/pipe you found should go all the way to the front of the engine, to the engine driven hydraulic pump. The drain for the hydraulic system is under the right box. Pipe thread plug under the box, above the track. Best regards, Bruce

Mikeforester
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by Mikeforester » Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:09 pm

Hello,

Standing at the back of the machine the hydraulic drain plug is located behind the trim panel on the right hand side. Remove the panel and there will be a pipe plug at the bottom of the hydraulic reservoir. Reservoirs are usually pressurized to keep out dust, so remove fill cap first to let out pressure. Transmission drain plug is under machine (1 1/8" or 1 1/4" socket to remove). Steering clutches have drain plugs as well (Allen heads).

Be prepared for about 20 gallons between the systems. Transmission and steering clutches share a common sump, but are drained and filled separately. Hydraulic is separate from drivetrain.

If the systems are contaminated with water I would warm the tractor up under no load and then drain them. Getting moisture contamination out can be a project. Let everything drain for a couple of days (be surprised at how much will come out). If I am dealing with contamination I usually disconnect as many components as possible and used compressed air to blow out residual oil. Clean all the suction screens as well. Just remember, everything still has water in them (torque converter, pistons, lines, .etc) and just changing the sump oils will quickly contaminate new oil. Don't be in a rush. Replace all filters and fill sumps with fresh oil. Run machine to warm everything thing up and repeat. I usually run some seafoam in the systems once they are clean to draw out light moisture afterwards.

Transmissions and hydraulic systems are several thousand dollars of parts and labor to fix or replace ( not to mention lost production with the machine). Take your time, oIl is cheap compared to parts.

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jsal
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by jsal » Sun Sep 16, 2018 6:48 pm

to eliminate moisture I just used sea foam Hydra trans tune recommended by Lavoy worked for the trans on a 302 JD tractor used 2 qts to five gallons

JIM

ngilles
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by ngilles » Sun Sep 16, 2018 7:36 pm

Thanks for the replies guys! Mikeforester sounds like you've fought the moisture battle. Did you blow out lines going to the loader lift and dump cylinders too? There must be several gallons in those cylinders. I'll give it a try, thanks for all your advice!
Nick
555A Trackloader
Lx565 New Holland Skid Loader
D14 Allis Chalmers 1959

Mikeforester
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Re: Hydraulic Oil and Trans Oil change

Post by Mikeforester » Sun Sep 16, 2018 8:38 pm

Yes, I've fought it on several machines over the years. It can be a challenge to clean up. There is always several gallons left in the system that cannot be removed by just draining the oil. That's why I take things apart and blow them out/drain them if possible.

We had a tractor at work that the hydraulic oil looked like pancake batter. Drained everything over the course of a couple of days and made a rig to connect air to the system to blow it out ( low pressure maybe 40-50psi, just enough to move stuff through the primary circuit). Changed the oil and filters on a short cycle and it's been 2 years and the oil is like new.

Take your time. Once it's cleaned up, I agree with using seafoam or similar to maintain the system. Along with a good tarp or garage/barn if possible!

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