I tried to send this to Lavoy in the messaging, but I don't think I did something correct.
I know many of you very knowledgeable about crawlers, and I was hoping you might be willing to share some guidance. As I mentioned on a previous forum post, I got burned last year on a JD 350 purchase and ended up having to sell it for a little over scrap price. Because of that, I’m now looking for something a bit smaller than a 350 so I can realistically work on it in my own shop if needed.
I recently started looking at a JD 1010 loader crawler that’s a few hours from me. I’m comfortable evaluating basic engine condition, but I’d like to be better prepared when it comes to inspecting the tracks and undercarriage. I saw someone post what looked like a checklist for the 1010, but the link wouldn’t open and appeared to be corrupted. Do any of you happen to have access to that checklist or something similar?
This machine appears to have relatively newer track pads. When I go to look at it in person, assuming pins and bushings are worn and need replacement, what’s a realistic parts/labor cost range to expect to replace them?
The ad claims it “runs good” and that the undercarriage is “85%,” but I’ve learned to take those statements with a grain of salt. It also notes that one steering clutch is “stuck,” which immediately makes me think I could be looking at around $1,000 in parts alone, not counting labor.
Any insight you’re willing to share would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time.
JD Loader Crawler 1010 Check list ?
Re: JD Loader Crawler 1010 Check list ?
I just replied to your PM.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com
Re: JD Loader Crawler 1010 Check list ?
From my own 1010 experience, a couple of things, if I'm not too late to reply:
1. Check that the track frames are perpendicular to the crawler frame. Stand behind the machine, look at the angle of the frames, the sprockets & idlers. On my 1010, there's about a 4 deg angle. You can see it, when you look for it. Root cause - both cross shaft, and the bores in the track frames, are completely worn. Quite a bit of work to address this.
2. Look for missing or loose bolts on all the structural parts. Gaps between castings where there shouldn't be gaps. Perhaps an unusual one, but something I missed on the initial inspection of mine, before I bought it. A sign of someone doing some repair work earlier, but poorly.
1. Check that the track frames are perpendicular to the crawler frame. Stand behind the machine, look at the angle of the frames, the sprockets & idlers. On my 1010, there's about a 4 deg angle. You can see it, when you look for it. Root cause - both cross shaft, and the bores in the track frames, are completely worn. Quite a bit of work to address this.
2. Look for missing or loose bolts on all the structural parts. Gaps between castings where there shouldn't be gaps. Perhaps an unusual one, but something I missed on the initial inspection of mine, before I bought it. A sign of someone doing some repair work earlier, but poorly.
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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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1963 (?) Deere 1010 Crawler-Dozer
1955 Ford 850
1973 MF40 Ind
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