450C steering clutches. How long do they last?

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Joel Shackelford
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450C steering clutches. How long do they last?

Post by Joel Shackelford » Thu Feb 14, 2008 8:31 pm

Hey guys,
I'm going to buy a 450C that has 4400 hours total time. Is it common for the steering clutches to be in good shape with this amount of hours? The steering clutches has never been replaced.
The engine was rebuilt quit some time ago and it has all an new track system put on less than two years ago and the new clutch was replaced about the same time. It has been on a farm so it has not been used a lot.
Regards,
Joel

jbrown
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Post by jbrown » Fri Feb 15, 2008 11:20 am

That seems odd that the engine was redone with only 4400 hours on it.Did they say why it was needed?

Joel Shackelford
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Post by Joel Shackelford » Fri Feb 15, 2008 11:59 am

Hmm. No he didn't. How long should the engine last?

jbrown
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Post by jbrown » Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:05 pm

I been looking at 450c's also.have seen some over 10000 hrs with out rebuild.Did you buy the machine?New clutch.don't they have reversers or are some real clutches and 4spds'?How much did you give for it?I am in upstate NY ,they running 10 to $15000 around here in winter.I was looking at one were the owner died and his son is selling it.It showed 1400 hrs and he said it was true.But the cleats were almost gone and the links were too.He had a work sheet showing the work his dad had done.It showed tranny work ,new manifold,welding on bottom of final drives and some engine work,also new pins and bushings put into the worn links.He should of bought a used track.any ways it had way manyhours than what was shown.I don't remember if the hour meter flips at 9999 hours or if they go to 10000.

Joel Shackelford
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Post by Joel Shackelford » Mon Feb 18, 2008 10:03 pm

I had to give 20,000 for it. I noticed that you have to pull just a little harder on the right steering clutch. It works fine, just not quite as easy as the left side. the manual says that pulling the steering clutch back all the way will adjust it to much causing it to be harder to steer. Is there any way to adjust the steering clutches without tanking of the hydro tank off?
Regards, Joel

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digitup2
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Post by digitup2 » Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:17 am

On your dozer you will notice a small triangle shaped cast plate on the drive casts both sides just above the tracks take the bolts out and get someone else to pull that side leaver .Here is where you set it .Set the clutch to open just before break enguages .Only if break bands were set up wrong will they need to be replaced and this could occur at any time .If the break sets it self to high then you have a lose older system and you can back the break of at the setting area .Your motor should last from 14 thousand to a well cared for 18 thousand hours .I have found that Deeres engines can last longer than most but are the first to be trubled with cylender base seal problems if you do not change the antifreeze often This is Deeres mortal enemy .So change the antifreeze at least every 5 years or 4 if you tend to be on the unlucky side too often like me I have 22 John Deere engines and none have coolant older than 4 years NONE! .Digitup.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Wed Feb 20, 2008 9:25 am

Hi,

Heck, I change the AF in everything I have on a 3-year cycle. ;)

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
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RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:16 am

450C steering clutches have no internel adjustments on the clutch packs inside of steering clutch houseing. only adj. in that houseing is self adjuster for brake which sometimes gets stuck and has to be turned by hand a click or to to get it moving again this is found behind plug with 3/4
square hole in center right above track also if this is clear to its end of travel brakes or brake clutch drums could be worn I find this alot in crawlers that have had oil other than jd run in them have fun Randy
35 years mec.en deeres

Joel Shackelford
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Post by Joel Shackelford » Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:11 pm

Thanks guys! :D

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Post by jbrown » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:12 pm

I just looked at an Ebay 450c that sold a few weeks back.It had the sleeves replaced at 5000 hours.So mabey depends on use ,how soon they get replaced.The Dealer said they sometimes leak between sleeve and cylinder.I am think about one for $13500 I thought that should be fair .If it not too beat up.They ad says 1500 hours, Now like the other one I looked at these can't be true hours?I am i upstate NY.

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Post by jbrown » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:19 pm

Randy I see what you said about the engine life.Thats what I thought.I have a 1010 and I keep the oil clean and antifreeze .If they don't change the antifreez maybey thay causes the sleeves to leak on a 450c.It would be that or not changeing the oil.

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Post by jbrown » Sat Feb 23, 2008 1:24 pm

How hard is it too change brake band on a 450c.? I done it on a 1010 and put clutches on both sides'Is it about the same just bigger?There is a nother for $10000 that needs steering band replaced.He's got 2 the other won't going reverse all the time?Any Ideas on what would cause that?Ron

RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Sat Feb 23, 2008 3:14 pm

1010 & 2010 engs. are nothing like 350--450--or any other eng deere built these engs are sleeve and deck engs.( the sleeves are a part of the deck plate on top of block and under head all one piece) gas engs very seldom leak coolent into oil the deisel engs. have a combustion chamber in the head with copper sealing rings top and bottom witch has been know to leak sometimes --as for the wet sleeve engs (single sleeve for each cyl.) this goes for all deere waterloo & debuque engs. cavitation is the cause for damage to sleeves and o-ring sealing areas deere is not the only eng. that has this problem Mack--Cummings are as bad or worse than deere Mack Cummings and some deere use coolent filters with a water softener pellet to reduce the amount of bubbles in the coolent there are maney service bulletins at your deere dealer on this problem 70's--80's-- is changing anti-freese the cure it hasn't stopped all of it.
see CAVITATION in your dictionary it may shed some light on this problem
out in a field of deeres have fun Randy

RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Sat Feb 23, 2008 5:58 pm

changing brake bands in 450C is a task--remove fuel tank with bat.box and hyd. tank I do this leaving them all in one unit--remove tracks so sprokets can be removed remove top covers on final drive housings remove triangle shaped bearing quill cover behind where sprocket was remove 1/2 sq.drive plug located in center of stewering clutch housing turn clutch pack so 3/8 sq.lock bolt can be seen sometimes this has 5/8 lock nut and sometimes it's11/16 remove bolt-- hold clutch pack at the hight it's at and pull pinion shaft out of final drive then reach inside of where you pulled that shaft and pull drive shaft out through the same hole O when you remove top covers remove self adj. mec unhook hyd hose from clutch and fitting at top lift clutch pack and brake band up out--this will take a little wiggling and is were heavy check band and drum surface for wear if the drum is wore it will have to be replaced deere no longer has the old drums you have to up date and that means new pinion shaft for final I hunt down good used ones this will give ya an ideere how it done have fun Randy

RANDY Fay
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Post by RANDY Fay » Sat Feb 23, 2008 6:09 pm

I forgot reverser problem if it goes sometimes I would think it would be shift linkage is worn and not pulling it over into reverse try banging lever over to the reverse side and see if it shifts have fun Randy

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