Final drive, clutch, brake questions.
- Crawlerbrad
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 5:47 pm
- Location: Manchester, Maryland
Final drive, clutch, brake questions.
I just got the left final drive off my 440ic. I found about an inch of slug in the bottom, with some oil. as well as the whole brake linning in little pieces. so where do i get the brake linnings and how much. and as far as the oil i know that there has to be an oil seal in the steering clutch housing? i did not really get to look at it much as i pulled it off and had to go do something. i think that my next step is to take the final drive and clean it up as well as the clutch housing. but how much will i have to spend to redo the brakes. also i noticed that when i got the crawler in the air and the tracks off, i could not turn the sprocket. the tran was in netural, and the brakes were off. also the truning levers were not pulled. what do you think that could be. i was thinking that the brakes were adjusted tight? i do know that there was a little pull or draw on the crawler when you go drive forward or backwards.
i would replace every thing, chances are that oil got in the clutches too. even if you clean them, oil will still surface and couse them to slip. replace the seal in the trans and the final drive to be sure. the brakes can be relined by a heavy truck shop like CATCO, or bought new from lavoy. email him for prices, their not as bad as one would think. as far as it not turning, assuming it was in some working order before tare down, u are working against the the mechanical advantage of the final drive (large gear reduction, mass of components, brakes, trans, friction, ect.)
As to the sprocket not turning. Is the track still on the other side and sitting on the ground at some piont? If so, you arent going to turn the sprocket without moving the crawler with the other track. There is no differential, both driveshafts go into the ring gear carrier. The "turning levers" are what cause power differentiation. Without the stearing lever pulled to activate the clutch you were trying to turn the other side track. Even with the lever pulled, the gear reduction and weight of everything would make it turn pretty hard I would think.
As Lavoy said if there is oil in there find out where (pinion seal due to bad or loose bearing or on the other side the axle seal between the transmission and the clutch housing)Fix, replace seals ,replace clutch fibers,replace breakband and possibly throwout bearing and possibly clutch pressure plate then put it back on. Be sure that you put lock tabs on the outer quil bolts on the pinion shaft. Whoever rebuilt mine didn't and as you use it they back out therby taking the preload off the pinion bearings allowing the pinion shaft and clutch to wobble affecting clutch activation but worst I think it has stressed the pinion seal prematurely. I had to make my own locks as Lavoy didn't have any. Not hard to do.
Chuck
As Lavoy said if there is oil in there find out where (pinion seal due to bad or loose bearing or on the other side the axle seal between the transmission and the clutch housing)Fix, replace seals ,replace clutch fibers,replace breakband and possibly throwout bearing and possibly clutch pressure plate then put it back on. Be sure that you put lock tabs on the outer quil bolts on the pinion shaft. Whoever rebuilt mine didn't and as you use it they back out therby taking the preload off the pinion bearings allowing the pinion shaft and clutch to wobble affecting clutch activation but worst I think it has stressed the pinion seal prematurely. I had to make my own locks as Lavoy didn't have any. Not hard to do.
Chuck
1960 440ICD #461094 w/ #63 manual blade Converted to a gas engine two owners ago.
- Crawlerbrad
- 420 crawler
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Mon May 25, 2009 5:47 pm
- Location: Manchester, Maryland
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