450 Steering clutch disc numbers ????

[Mariner]

Hi Guys,

I am in themiddle of doing clutch re-re and was wondering about the correct number of metal and fibre discs in each clutch.

When I took my clutch apart everything was pretty much rusted solid - yet the fibre discs don't look too bad considering - though they have rust and other stuff galled up on the friction sides.

So, my question is what is the correct number of discs for each steering clutch assembly ?

The JD450 book shows 9 Facing discs (fibre) and 8 Driving (metal) discs.

The old ones that were removed were 8 Facing (fibre) and 7 Driving (metal).

Which is the correct number? I don't want to have to do this job again as it is turning out to be a real PIA - keeping finding stuff that needs fixing

All the metal is badly rusted but not to the point of needing renewal (thank goodness) - drums, hub etc. Gonna be a good many hours cleaning up these parts.

I have enough parts for one disc renewal - 10 of each, so I just need the correct numbers of each. What figures would you all go by

The clutch was not working period, so if the number was too small, it didn't make any difference in the operation or lack of.

This machine has been neglected for quite a few years - more than I care to think about.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

mariner

[Mariner]

Hi everyone,

Well i figured the correct numbers of clutch discs - the 450 has 8 and 7, the 450B has 9 and 8. I was using a copy of parts from a 450B manual initially and didn't realize the difference - duh !

When the clutches came out I was amazed/surprised at the difference in the lever/finger settings. The first clutch (which had quit working two years ago)there was a spread of 3/16" between the finger heights (highest to lowest). On the second clutch which did work, the difference between the three fingers was 1/8".

If the clutches were set up properly using the JD264 clutch gauge, would the heights change over time ??? I very much doubt it unless the arms got bent in use somehow. On both clutches I adjusted each arm to check it's max. and min. adjustment positions and all were the same - so this indicated to me that none were bent relative to the others. My conclusion is that in both cases the clutches were installed without the fingers being properly adjusted.

Incidently, the first clutch which had quit working, when opened up was found to have a lot of rust in it - especially in the grooves for the steel plates, as well as between plates too. The second clutch that was working, there was little rust at all and the plates looked like they would have been good for a long time yet as there were no ridges to speak of.

Anyway, just thought that someone might find this of interest. Also found that when the fingers were adjusted using the JD264 gauge, the top of the finger down to the hub centre top face, measured 1" in both cases. I suspect that machining of the hub might change that figure, but thought it could be a useful refence point for later if no JD264 gauge is available to use (I rented one for a week from a dealer 50 miles away)

While working in this area I also rebuilt the two hydraulic assist cylinders. Just as well as they were both very loose with worn seals and I suspect that one cylinder was leaking hydraulic oil (level was dropping in resevoir and had to be topped up).

Still have to finish the install and replacing all the newly cleaned and lubricated parts All being well the machine will certainly be easier to operate once I am finished - I got held up waiting for parts to arrive.

thanks

mariner

[Mariner]

Just thought I would post an update about the clutch work.

I had about four weeks delay in getting the parts - long story, but after market suppliers don't necessarily have the resources of the bigger guys (Deere). Anyway, I finally received everything and was able to complete the work.

Both clutches were done as well as both steering assist hyd.valves. Numerous smaller items replaced as needed. Machine works well and there does not appear to be the oil leaks from before (assist valve seals shot) - so that is all good so far. Best operating since I have had this machine.

On the negative side I have found the following things worn badly:

1) both track drive sprockets (already knew that)

2) track chain needing replacement - once split the track is much easier to look at. However, it should still be good for the work I need to do and keeping 400 yd driveway clear after heavy snow (about 40 hrs work a year is all).

3) both upper rollers badly worn

4) one clutch housing really needs replacement - outside diameter reduced by approx. 3/8" from machining brake band contact area over the years. This makes setting of clutch a little more interesting

Otherwise, the machine is working fine for now. My next project during the summer, will be to rebuild the injector fuel pump - no doubt I will be needing the expert guidance of JDMaris for this work.

It has been quite a slog getting the work done. The easiest part was the master pin install - I left them in the freezer for a couple of days and when installed, needed only a small tap with the hammer to slide in all the way.

Gonna have to keep my eyes and ears open for good used track parts now

Thx

mariner

[mikeintn]

I'm glad you got it going, the info. on the JD264 gauge may come in handy if its the same gauge used on 350B, I'm doing mine now and that 1 inch measurement maybe good to know

[Lavoy]

350 uses the JD7 gauge, quite a bit different than the JD264.
Lavoy

[mikeintn]

Can you tell me the amount of offset in that gauge?

[Lavoy]

I sell both the JD7 and the JD264 gauges.
Lavoy