450c Stanadyne Injector Pump Seal and Bearing Replacement

[Flatheadyoungin]

I have a 450C that has been pumping fuel in to the crankcase. Long story short, I replaced the fuel transfer pump and that didn't fix it. So, after a lot of internet surfing, finding this site again, joining this site and finding jdemarris' posts, I went and pulled my injector pump. I've never worked on diesels before but I pretty much fix everything else myself. All my life it has seemed the injector pump is a mystical thing that most don't understand. I don't and probably won't even after this but I do think it can get the ole' girl back to shoving dirt.

Anyway, after removing the pump, the little umbrella seals did seem a bit old and after closer inspection, there was a pc. of seal down in the pump. I'll have to get it out of there. To remove the pump, I just followed what I read on here. Good stuff.

Next I went to my local Deere dealer and picked their brain a bit- they are great to deal with even though they are an hour away: Leslie Equipment, they have many locations throughout OH, WV and KY. I bought two umbrellas seals from them, some oil and some filters. The parts guy at the counter felt my bronze bushing for the input shaft on the injector pump and said, "I've felt a lot worse than that. I'd put it back on there and run it." I agreed and left thinking I'd just slap it back together. After thinking about it for about a week, I thought to myself, "I really need this dozer this summer. I HAVE to get a road in to our property to access it all year and to our new 40x80 pole barn. So, let's do it right." Following jdemarris' messages, I called up USdiesel in TX. They had the Spaco seal and gasket kit for pretty much what I gave for my two seals from JD. I was only going to order the seal kit but you have to have a minimum of $25, so I added on a degree cover for timing, the special tool for the umbrella seals, the special tool for adjusting the cam dwell (turned out to be just a #45 torx, so don't pay their price for it) and an input shaft bronze/brass bushing.

Really, all mine needs that I know of are the seals and the input shaft brass bearing.

I'm thinking I'll do these two replacements and take pics as I do it for future reference on here. If, and I'd like for them to, jdemarris and a couple of others that post a lot about injector pumps want to chime in, that would be great. Remember though, this is just a shade-tree mechanic job. Something most of us on there would and can do ourselves. Much deeper in to the project and I'd have to send it off like most others do.

So, this is a community effort. I just put the 2 year old down for a nap and mommy and the 5 year old left for tumbling and cheerleading. I'm gonna get that bushing out of there. I'll be back on here, later, with pics.


Here are the items I ordered:

[Flatheadyoungin]

oh, my order for all of this stuff, shipped was around $80......i'm sure i paid more for the torx bit than from other places and i'm sure the other stanadyne items for more than they should have been but that's ok....i like to learn, have spare parts and if that's all it takes to put her back on track, then great!

[Tigerhaze]

We would like to see updates as you go along- as they say pictures are worth a thousand words.

[Flatheadyoungin]

That went a bit better than what I thought.....

Here's an over-all pic of the injector pump.....



Here's a pic of the timing marks that are under the little cover......I read about them but a pic is much better, I like to see and do (my wife says kind of like a money).....



Here's a pic of the old bronze bearing.....you can't tell, but if you stick your finger back in there there are some little wear groves that the washers wore in to the bearing......if I had put it all back together without replacing this, I'm sure I would have been doing it all again sooner rather than later......



Well, you always realize after the job is done, that you didn't take enough pics, so there is a big hole in this tech......there was a lot of holding your tongue right but there aren't any pics to prove it.

i'll post more later...hopefully, the boss just said I need to take one of the kids to her aunts....

[Flatheadyoungin]

Ok, here we again........

As I said, I didn't take enough pics to show how I did it but it's nothing special.....

Here's the after pics:

Just got the bearing out:




I took a hacksaw blade and put one in a little single handle holder. I messed up and took various chisels and punches. I tried to collapse the bearing but it was much thicker and stronger than I thought. In my hast, I chipped off all of the flange that was exposed, that I could get a hold of with a pair of vise grips. So I would have started with the hacksaw rather than the chisels and punches.

I then took the hacksaw and cut a grove in it being careful not to cut in to the surrounding metal to create a new leak in to the oil pan. Even this cut still made it hard to collapse because the bearing was so thick. It did however, allow the bearing to spin and slide in and out. Being that I broke off the part of the bearing that was exposed so I couldn't get a hold of it. A small inside bearing puller would have been handy. I looked around the garage and found a 3/8 speeder that had a flange on the end. I inserted this in to the hole and it caught on the back side of the bearing, then I could hit the speeder and pull the bearing out. Here's a pic:





here you can see where i cut through it......i started cutting another line about 1/4" away (i'd keep them within about 1/16 if i did it again) thinking that i could remove a section and THEN collapse the bearing.....again, the bearing wasn't all brass like it thought...





here's a pic of where i buggered it up some....it's not nearly as bad as the pic makes it look.....i took a flat file and dressed the face of it and then took a rat tail and dressed the transition to the inside



When I put the new bearing in, I used a 2x4 and a hammer. I would have rather had a press. I really didn't like hitting the pump that much. I should have been more patient and took it to a buddy's house tomorrow. It's done now, hopefully she'll hold together. I put a light coat of oil on the outside of the bearing and the the inside of the pump.

I used a shop vac during the whole process to keep as many shavings out of there as possible. When I was done I used some brake cleaner to flush it all out, then I'd wipe it with a rag, then flush again, etc.

Here's the finished product: I hope I can remember to take my camera when I go to put it back on the dozer.

Do any of you have any other suggestions about what I need to do before I put it back on? I need to finish cleaning it up, I wanted to thread the banjo fitting bolts back in to help keep the crap out of there. I'll be ready to put it back on after that.

[Cottontop]

Where did you purchase your replacement kit?

[Jim B]

Welcome to the forum, Cottontop.

I don't know that he will respond to you. The post is over nine years old and it looks like he hasn't logged in in over eight years. The place he got his parts may not even be in business now.

Personally checking and changing the umbrella seals on the drive shaft, common cause of getting fuel in the oil, is about all I would do to an injection pump. Beyond that it is going to a pump shop. I feel that If the sleeve is worn enough to need replacing, the rest of the pump likely needs more attention than seals, especially with the problems being seen with the low sulfur (and bio-diesel) fuel we have now. Proper set up and calibration requires proper test stands. I know some do the work discussed in this, and other posts, with success. There are likely as many, maybe more, that it didn't work out for and they ended up taking their pump to a shop after working on it themselves. You won't hear much about them. I have had some training on pumps and injectors and am not afraid of tearing into them but the training also reinforces the fact that I don't have the tooling to do it right. This is my personal opinion and if others choose to work on their pump, it is their choice and I respect that.

You don't say what is wrong with your pump. If it is fuel in the oil check the transfer pump as well as umbrella seals, those can leak fuel into the oil. You can do an on line search and find any number of injection pump seal kits if you want to do it yourself. Some maybe available from John Deere or a shop that works on injection equipment.

Jim

[Lavoy]

I would echo what Jim said about taking it to a shop, and add that once rebuilt, a good injection shop will also spin the pump up and set fuel delivery and what ever other setting and adjustments are necessary.
Lavoy

[77 Ford]

I agree with out sourcing this, I'm a huge fan of "doing it myself" but at the end of the day the test equipment they run it thru makes it all worth while.

I had good success with these guys:

https://www.dcpcart.com/OScart/product_ ... pump-p-274