Hello all. I am hoping some one can help me figure this out. i have a servce manuel but am still a little confused. I have a john deere 420 cralwer and for what i am seeing is i need to loosen the two jam nuts on the slider block and turn the main bolt so the slider block moves out to adjust the tention on the track.
My question is dose the slider block have threads in it as well so that main bolt will move the whole set up out like its suppose to. Also with do i need to tighnen he spings? it looks like the spings should tighten them selves once i get the tracks a little more snug.
I hope this post has enough info. I am needing to adjust the tracks on this old thing. i still have bolt left to adjust bu before i start this just wanting to make sure im understanding the concept of this old beast.
420c track adjustment tension bolts
Re: 420c track adjustment tension bolts
The hole is not threaded. I have one apart right now.SOLDIER12 wrote:Hello all. I am hoping some one can help me figure this out. i have a servce manuel but am still a little confused. I have a john deere 420 cralwer and for what i am seeing is i need to loosen the two jam nuts on the slider block and turn the main bolt so the slider block moves out to adjust the tention on the track.
My question is dose the slider block have threads in it as well so that main bolt will move the whole set up out like its suppose to. Also with do i need to tighnen he spings? it looks like the spings should tighten them selves once i get the tracks a little more snug.
I hope this post has enough info. I am needing to adjust the tracks on this old thing. i still have bolt left to adjust bu before i start this just wanting to make sure im understanding the concept of this old beast.
There should be two nuts that secure the adjuster bolt to the front idler bracket. You loosen the nut on the front of the brackets tab and then use the nut behind the idler brackets tab to push the bracket forward.
A good picture of the adjuster is located at 165-15-1 in SM2019 and the whole process is described in section 165-5 of the same service manual.
Dan
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!
One more thing the springs are preset to a certain dimension, do not change that dimension.
If you do not have a Service a manual for your crawler , you really should get one.
Dan.
If you do not have a Service a manual for your crawler , you really should get one.
Dan.
1956 420C with GSC blade
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!
Tools are to men as shoes are to women , you can never have too many !!
Used diesel engines are an adventure any way you look at them !!
You probably have an I & T manual, they are quite sparse on info. Get a copy of a factory service manual and you will be much better off.
As to the adjustment, if you have not already figured it out, loosen the jam nut towards the front, and as you back off the nut towards the rear, the track will loosen.
Lavoy
As to the adjustment, if you have not already figured it out, loosen the jam nut towards the front, and as you back off the nut towards the rear, the track will loosen.
Lavoy
A couple of questions.
My tracks are worn pretty bad, basically adjusted all the way to the end. Is it possible to remove a link and just shorten the adjuster?
Also as far as replacing the adjuster bolts, can I use common 1" threaded rod and make new ones or should I use hardened threaded rod or just try to save the old bolts?
My tracks are worn pretty bad, basically adjusted all the way to the end. Is it possible to remove a link and just shorten the adjuster?
Also as far as replacing the adjuster bolts, can I use common 1" threaded rod and make new ones or should I use hardened threaded rod or just try to save the old bolts?
The undercarriage will be all good when I get done in a few weeks as far as rollers, bushings, final drives, etc. The only worn item should be the tracks.Lavoy wrote:Yes you can remove a link and shorten the track. You do so with the assumption that you are running your undercarriage to destruction, and have no plans on trying to rebuild in the future.
I would use Grade 5 threaded rod, not grade 2, but you can do it.
Lavoy
Repinning and new bushings are not in the budget this year but will be in the next year or 2.
This may seem like a stupid question BUT,
If I remove one link without damaging it other than the pin, save the link for "someday" and when that time comes put said link back in, Is that possible?
Yes, definitely. If you quit using the crawler before the bushings perforate, as long as the rail height is good, they can be rebushed, and the removed link reinstalled. If you are stretched out far enough to remove a link, you are already opening up your sprockets, so you will likely need sprockets when you rebush.
Lavoy
Lavoy
Hi -
I also have a 420 where the undercarriage is pretty much wiped out and I have to keep my tracks tight as well.
One thing tightening up the tracks does NOT solve - whether you remove a link or not, is "the snake"...
What this means is that on newly bushed tracks, the links stay lined up straight as they run under the crawler no matter what. On really worn tracks, the links can move around side to side as they run under the bottom rollers and this is what makes them slip off the bottom rollers - especially on uneven ground or in higher gears.
The good news is that if they do jump the bottom rollers when they are worn like this, you can either A) Jockey them back on in forward/reverse - you'll get good at this, or B) stick a bottle juck under the crawler on that side, and jack the bottom rollers up off the track which stays on the ground from sag - no matter how ticght you have it, then just yank or push the track back into place with your hands and lower the crawler back down.
If you use the crawler much with worn tracks, you will eventually have a big bottle jack, two 1.5" wrenches, and a big chain come-along with you on the crawler at all times... - Chuck
I also have a 420 where the undercarriage is pretty much wiped out and I have to keep my tracks tight as well.
One thing tightening up the tracks does NOT solve - whether you remove a link or not, is "the snake"...
What this means is that on newly bushed tracks, the links stay lined up straight as they run under the crawler no matter what. On really worn tracks, the links can move around side to side as they run under the bottom rollers and this is what makes them slip off the bottom rollers - especially on uneven ground or in higher gears.
The good news is that if they do jump the bottom rollers when they are worn like this, you can either A) Jockey them back on in forward/reverse - you'll get good at this, or B) stick a bottle juck under the crawler on that side, and jack the bottom rollers up off the track which stays on the ground from sag - no matter how ticght you have it, then just yank or push the track back into place with your hands and lower the crawler back down.
If you use the crawler much with worn tracks, you will eventually have a big bottle jack, two 1.5" wrenches, and a big chain come-along with you on the crawler at all times... - Chuck
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