6 way blade

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 12:06 pm

As some of you are aware I am in the process of creating a 6 way blade for my 420c. I have been going by a previous picture with some alterations. The goal is to make the workings completely repairable / replaceable / servicable.

The pin that the blade pivots on is held in place by a setscrew. The notion is that if I ever have to take the pin out. I will merely undo the set screw, remove the vertical axis pin, and the pivot pin will be able to slide out.

I have the cylinders on order and will be posting more in the future as I get it more done.

gus · Post by **gus** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 1:37 pm

"set screw"?? Define that one. My experiance with pins is, it will need more than a "set screw". A bolt through the pin inside a short pipe extension, as you will find on most commercial equipment, would be my choice. Many years have proven that design.
Gus

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Wed Apr 27, 2011 9:54 pm

the verticle behind the beam with the pivot has a piece of structural tubing ( 1.75" long ). There is a access hole where I can get in with a socket wrench to tighten or loosen the set screw. The pin is 4.5" long and will be hardened before it is put in service. The pin will have a zerk fitting on the end that you can see (45 degree angle zerk), with cross holes to get the lube around the pin.

My brother in law whom worked at Bath Iron Works (naval ship yard here in Maine) said what I have done will be more than enough for my 5000 pound load and 20 horsepower of my tractor.

I thank you for your feed back and I am welcome to more incase I have over looked something.

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sat Apr 30, 2011 4:58 pm

Hi: I'm not sure in my mind how you are using your "set screw".
In my experience, set screws tend to be forgotten, and then when you need to loosen them, they are frozen tight and often break causing two problems, the original one, and now the broken set screw.

Would a spring pin work? Again, pardon my ignorance if it won't. I like them where applicable since a spring pin drift and a big hammer has always removed them for me.

Thanks for sharing your project with us. Paul

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Sun May 01, 2011 12:11 am

I dont think that

A) I would be able to keep the dirt out of the spring area

B) that a spring pin would stay inplace in this application. Vibration and service duty.

This pin will be hardened, after it gets its grease holes for the zerk fitting. As well as a notch where the set screw goes for holding power.

I will go into MSPaint now and create a small blueprint of what I have done.

time passes and one hour later. Hope this helps

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sun May 01, 2011 7:36 pm

Willy: Thanks for the update, thoughts and drawing. I understand your thinking better now. Since you mentioned a notch for the set screw, I'd choose NeverSeize in the screw threads and a lock washer which would help with the frozen bolt concern I mentioned before. I'll enjoy hearing how you decide to do it. Keep us posted on how your blade project developes and eventually how it works. Good luck. Paul

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Sun May 01, 2011 11:53 pm

Easier to tighten a bolt on top of set screw if I want to keep the dirt out of the hole.

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Tue May 03, 2011 9:54 pm

If by a set screw you mean a 1/2" bolt, it might work. That pin is going to want to turn. I would use a through bolt to anchor it as already suggested. Easier to make it too strong than to have to take it apart to modify the design.

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:04 am

alas with it welded in place now, I will eat the set screw threads trying to alter it to take a through pin. This is only rotating 2-3 degrees, combined 5-6 degrees. On the end of 3 feet it is significant. Yet at the pin the amount of travel is tiny.

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