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CSnyder
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I need help! someone to call

Post by CSnyder » Mon Sep 05, 2011 1:03 pm

Ive got a 350C that started running poorly yesterday and smoking white. I pulled the side covers and noticed fuel dripping from the bottom of the injection pump. Figured air was the power loss and white smoke so I pulled the lines etc off and the 2 bolts holding the pump on and slid it back to realize the shaft wasnt coming with the pump. I removed it and replaced the plug o-ring that was leaking and put the pump back on and it seems to rev better but has a miss and white smoke yet out of the exhaust but seems to me it has a knock to it now. Pretty sure its the injection pump knocking. Machine only has 1945 Hours on it now. I also have a slow engaging reverser issue I need expert advice on. More than happy to shoot someone some cash who knows these machines better than myself. If you can help email me a number to call at one4u2nv52101@hotmail.com

Thanks, Chris
My truck doesnt leak oil...it sweats horsepower!

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CSnyder
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Post by CSnyder » Mon Sep 05, 2011 2:32 pm

well after more diagnosis I believe I have a blown headgasket. There is crankcase blowby from the tube and blowby coming from the oil dipstick tube. The knock I thought I heard isnt there now...I assume it was air in the lines yet. Coolant was also down 1/2 gallon. Anyone else experienced this before with similar issues? Ill have the injectors tested while out and have the head decked and redo the valves and seals. Im not scared to work on these but this is my first Deere and first dozer. Thanks for any input!

I believe I convinced myself at first the poor running was due to the fuel drip but now after I think about it Ive been smelling fuel for the last few hours of operation.
My truck doesnt leak oil...it sweats horsepower!

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DBCSteve
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Post by DBCSteve » Mon Sep 05, 2011 8:09 pm

Chris --

Not sure what the problem is, but there is a specific procedure to remove, reinstall and time the injection pump. Requires special tool to rotate the flywheel to get the timing to line up.
JD 450C, Serial No. 316559T
formerly owned JD 350B, Serial No. 126738T
Kubota L3400 top-n-tilt

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CSnyder
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Post by CSnyder » Tue Sep 06, 2011 8:32 am

I never removed the shaft from the gear so timing should be dead on yet. The good is that the fuel leak on the bottom of the pump now quit dripping. The engine starts immediately but chugs white smoke and real low on power. It also has the blowby from the valve cover vent and oil dipstick tube. If it was the timing off it wouldnt have blowby from those. I also noticed once I had it out of direct sunlight that the head gasket is damp on the RH side of the machine and when I removed the air intake there is moisture in the head intake. Oil is still between the full and add marks also. I ALWAYS check all fluid levels before each use and oil, coolant, etc was all full before operating it for a few hours and all of a sudden loosing power and white smoke and now coolant is 1/2 gallon low. Im going to pull the head today or tomorrow and hope its just the headgasket although it may also be a cylinder liner. I was using it hard on some stumps before the issue rose so Im prepared to do whatever it takes. I can rebuild the engine for under 2000 bucks if its needed. The machine is low original hours and was owned by the state of MN its entire life before I bought it last year so it was never worked hard before I got it.Id still like to chat with someone very knowledgeable on these before I tear into it. If I pull the engine is there anything else I should do while in there? Obviously Ill replace the clutch with something bigger than OEM.

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KenP
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Post by KenP » Tue Sep 06, 2011 9:59 am

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CSnyder
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Post by CSnyder » Tue Sep 06, 2011 10:42 am

Ken, Im VERY familiar with clutches and have 2 very good friends who own clutch performance shops...maybe you have even heard of Valair clutches or maybe even Southbend. I know both owners, Dan and Peter, very well. Anything is possible in their eyes! But yes you are right Im not sure how the clutch drive works in these machines. I know once warm it is slow engaging with the reverser and assumed clutch. Ill have to wait until my book I ordered arrives to better understand that stuff. Im a diesel (truck) mechanic by trade and operate my own shop full time so wrenching does not scare me. www.RamBoyz.com I read plenty via google on how the umbrella seals work in the Roosa pump before I attempted reinstalling it on the shaft. A simple homemade tool helped me accomplish keeping them faced right for install. My friends who own www.IndustrialInjection.com assured me I did it right and its not dumping fuel in the crankcase after 30 minutes of run time for diagnostics. The timing is something Ill have to read in the book but pulling the covers off the pump and barring the engine over til the timing ticks were lined up on the pump and flywheel had me under the assumption nothing changed there. Ive spent the better part of the last 20 years building, modifying, and improving diesel pick-ups so if wrongful wrenching costs me money its on me. Im just looking for someone with MORE knowledge than myself on this machine to tell me what I should focus on.
My truck doesnt leak oil...it sweats horsepower!

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Post by KenP » Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:00 pm

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CSnyder
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Post by CSnyder » Tue Sep 06, 2011 12:09 pm

Thank you for the description of the valvebody to clutch. I should be more on thought process as an automatic versus manual clutch and that helps a ton. I was thinking it had a dry clutch that operated the 4 speed trans which in turn went to a reverser pump and out to the drives. Are these valves known for leaking or weak o-rings in them?
My truck doesnt leak oil...it sweats horsepower!

mikeintn
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Post by mikeintn » Wed Sep 07, 2011 8:05 pm

It has an isolator not a clutch, more then likely the older style that has the springs, the ones that came in the 350 D was rubber, I just changed the one in my B to the newer style and your looking at 2500 to up grade it, I do understand some of the late C's came with the later style isolator. Good luck
Michael

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push&pull7
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Post by push&pull7 » Thu Sep 08, 2011 10:08 pm

most of the time white smoke in a diesel engine indicates your burning water with your fuel, cracked head or blown head gasket most likey
1952 JD A
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1976 L260 Kubota
1977 Ford3000
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CSnyder
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Post by CSnyder » Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:53 pm

Pulled the head this morning and found the headgasket wasnt the issue. Front cylinder has gouge marks in the piston and a burn down to the rings on 2 sides of it. Didnt find anything foreign in the piston bowl so it must have exited out the exhaust valve. Got the engine pulled and gonna tear it down this week one day and start the rebuild. I found my hydraulic pump is leaking quite heavy also so I need a good source for a new one. Gonna throw in some new injectors while Im at it too.

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My truck doesnt leak oil...it sweats horsepower!

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