John deere MC

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:19 pm

Purchased a John Deere MC this weekend. Want to get the engine oil changed and the other oil levels checked. Waiting on my manual so here are the questions I have until then...

What grade oil should i cange it to? It is staring to get colder. Tractor data says 32 and above 20 and below 32F 10W. Can i just use 10W30 and call it good, I dont think they had multi grade oils when the manuals were written. I believe it has rotella-t in it now.

How can i check the oil levels the trans? if i need to add any what sould i use? From the info i have found here it says 90W. Can i use the 80/90w gear oil i have?

Do the drives have a oil levels and what can i service them with? the info says they take 1 and 3/4 pints is there a level check or is it a drain and add that amount?

Finally can i use the same hyd oil i use in my modern day tractor in the HYD system for the blade.

i will add some picks next.

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 1:22 pm

Willyr · Post by **Willyr** » Tue Sep 27, 2011 5:18 pm

Your transmission fill hole is on the right side in the foot well area. My manual for my 420 says to the top of the hole (1.75 pints 90SAE).

Where mine is weeping around a brand new seal, I am planning on adding moto-honey. You have seen the display at a parts store where you turned to egg beaters in oil. The side with the moto-honey the oil would chase up the gears.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:11 am

Go ahead and run 10W-30 in the engine, it is way better oil than these old girls were born with.
80W-90 in trans and final drives. Fill plug for trans is behind right heel as you sit on the crawler, I would drain and flush and add all new fluid, not just top off, same with final drives. Drain plug for trans is underneath, LH side of trans. Fill and drain on finals is on the inside lower portion of each final.
If your tractor uses a common systems fluid like Hy-Gard or Hytran, you will lose some pressure, and they will tend to squeal a little more, bit it will work.
FYI, the blade you have is extremely heavy, and was never meant to be on an MC. You will be putting a lot of stress on your undercarriage with this blade, especially the forward roller and front idler. These are both expensive pieces to replace, so be careful.
Lavoy

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Thu Sep 29, 2011 5:43 pm

Yeah I was reading about the weakness in these tracks. Guess they are simply Lindeman tracks from a B put on a M making it a crawler. Yes I know there was more than JUST that but that is the basics of it i figure. Guess why it was called a crawler and not a dozer. Likes to be a tractor.

What can't be seen in the pictures is that there is a counter weight on the back to help level it. I am careful. Using it to push some brush, maybe snow this winter. Not going to be a major dirt pusher, have a bucket loader for that. I am going to get some fluids changed up and see what for plans might be in this tractors future. The RH drive might need to be gone thru soon. It does not work as easy and the LH. Don’t know how much of a headache that might be….. But I am technically inclined and want to make this tractor as sharp looking as it is useful. It won’t be a building queen, but not beat either!

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 12:50 pm

So what fluid can I add to my hyd tank. Normal hydraulic fluid?

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 2:20 pm

I would use a 10 or 20 weight straight hyd fluid. Common systems or hydro fluid will work, but you will lose some pressure, and gain some squeal.
Lavoy

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:43 pm

Lavoy wrote:I would use a 10 or 20 weight straight hyd fluid. Common systems or hydro fluid will work, but you will lose some pressure, and gain some squeal.
Lavoy

Is that different than 10 or 20 wt motor oil?

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:28 pm

You may or may not receive some arguements as to that, but my theory is if there was not a difference, the two would not exist. That being said, I believe that the owners manual will say 10wt engine oil is acceptable.
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 12:52 pm

some older hyd. systems used engine oil you should try to figure out what is in there now so you use the same i would think that mixing hyd. and engine oil cant be good

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Wed Oct 05, 2011 3:56 pm

jtrichard wrote:some older hyd. systems used engine oil you should try to figure out what is in there now so you use the same i would think that mixing hyd. and engine oil cant be good

I was going to flush out the hydro system before refilling with fresh oil

fruitcakesa · Post by **fruitcakesa** » Sat Oct 15, 2011 3:52 pm

I checked out hydraulic oil viscosity ratings and found that AO32 = 10 wt
AO46 = 15 wt and AO68 = 20 wt

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 9:07 pm

SO the outer bearing on my final drive gave out and took out the bull gear and the 16 tooth sprocket above it. The bottom of the final drive cover is now busted out as well.

So i need parts, i need bearings, all in the rh final drive need to be replaced. Are the races replaced with the bearing?? Where can i get these? I was going to try my local bearing specialty store.

I need a final drive sump. or to weld mine up.

Bull gear and 16 tooth sprocket above it, these i have found on ebay. is there a better place to get them.

gaskets as well but i can make these if i have to.

I will take any pointers folks. I have all the manuals and am a mechanic but daily work on aircraft, crawlers not so much.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 11:03 pm

I have at least some, if not all of those pieces on hand.
Lavoy

yellow is good · Post by **yellow is good** » Wed Oct 24, 2012 2:20 pm

How might one get the bearing races out of the final drive caps? I plan to replace all the bearings in my final drives. Looking at the races i was kind of puzzled as to how to get them out.

I was think of trying the old trick of welding the race to shrink it but was not sure if that was enough.

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