40C Track

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Craigk79
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40C Track

Post by Craigk79 » Fri Aug 24, 2012 12:46 pm

Is there anyone out there that has a track link for sale?

The track fell off my crawler I thought that triangle pieces on the Frame just busted to and I looked today and I found that there was a hairline crack in one of the track links and I need one so I can fix it. To get it out of the woods and I was wondering if anybody had one for sale thanks.

Craig
OWN a John Deere 40C
Craig

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sat Aug 25, 2012 9:18 am

I have links, but it is a lot of work to replace just one link, you will have to do it all with a sledgehammer, torch and big punch. If you can, vee the crack out and weld it back together.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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RacinJason
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40C

Post by RacinJason » Mon Dec 10, 2012 3:52 pm

I just ordered a segment of 3 track links for a 40C, on ebay, from "farmerjohnsparts". Price was $60 plus $22 S+H. He cuts the adjacent link on each end so you get 3 good links and 2 cut ones. My bushings are worn through to the pins, and I have 27 links/pads, so I believe it's short tracked. My plan is to learn how to drive out the pins and bushings on these test pieces, purchase 1 or 2 pins and bushings from JD and experiment. Then, if all goes well, I'll purchase a complete set of pins + bushings, bring the tracks home from Maine, and change them out. That's Plan B. Plan A is just run it the way it is! ;-)

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:19 pm

Okay, a word of advice from a guy that has a track press, but tried to rebush a set of rails on the cheap years ago by making a press. It just doesn't work. It is not a function of pushing the pins or the bushings out, it is also a function of holding the links in the proper alignment while the work is being done.
My track press is an obsolete dinosaur, and it is a 60 ton press. It also has shim stock down as little as .030 I believe to shim the width and other issues on the links as they are being rebushed. So in a nutshell, it is not an issue of a regular shop press or big hammer and punch, it is a lot more.
FYI, it is highly unlikey that your local deal will sell you one or two pins and bushings as he has to purchase them in quantity, and is probably not willing to place into stock a part with a zero sales history for him.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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RacinJason
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40C

Post by RacinJason » Mon Dec 10, 2012 4:47 pm

Thanks Lavoy,
I realize I probably won't be able to change the pins and bushings, but will experiment. The extra links could come in handy, should I break one. For the $1500 I paid, I can run Ol Clancy (Has a loose track plate that clanks) into the ground. Hopefully I can finish my projects before parting it out. The engine runs well.
My local dealer says he MAY be able to find another nearby dealer with some leftover parts in stock. The pins + bushings come 27 + 28 to a box.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Dec 10, 2012 5:03 pm

Pins and bushings should be 16 per box, have been that way for 20 years for sure, not sure going farther back.
Remember the pins are hard, so when hitting with a hammer, they will possibly splinter a shard off.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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RacinJason
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40C track pins & bushings

Post by RacinJason » Mon Dec 10, 2012 8:41 pm

Remember, Plan A will probably be implemented, I also have Plans C & D in mind. Plan C is IF & When I put my old South Bend lathe together, I may attempt to make my own pins and/or bushings. Though the metallurgy may not be conducive to long life, they will last longer than the present status.
Plan "D" consists of cutting short pices of tubing, sliced in half, and welding them in over the worn through bushings. Probably more trouble than it's worth, for such a Mickey Mouse repair. :lol:
The quantities are according to my old catalog P-229 and have probably changed since it was written. Meanwhile, maybe I can strike up a rapport with some of the good ol' boys in the Northeast to get some ideas. Talk to you later!

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Mon Dec 10, 2012 9:01 pm

the problem with plan??? is when you weld anything on the bushings it makes it almost impossible to repin and bush the rails later
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

cdunn
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Post by cdunn » Mon Dec 10, 2012 11:08 pm

One suggestion I have; when you implement Plan#A, you need to have someone there with you to call 911. I saw my uncle trying to repin a rail on a Cat' using a large ball ping hammer and a large hydraulic jack. A piece of that pin about the size of a dime went completely thru the calf of his right leg. I was there to make the call.
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RacinJason
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40C tracks

Post by RacinJason » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:40 am

OK, What you all say is true. As a former All-around Machinist, I am familiar with the hazards of dealing with hardened steel items, and I hope subsequent readers make note of these cautions. As I have said, these thoughts may never come to fruition. As far as flying steel goes, I have a friend who was splitting wood and got a piece of the wedge in his arm. After the ER, he ended up with a 10 inch scar on his arm (or leg, I foget which) where they cut to search for the fragment, and a big hospital bill.
The idea of filling in the worn bushings seems like a lot of work compared to the benefits. A lot of fitting and welding. Remember, this dozer has one foot in the graveyard, so to speak, so I am not worrying about removing the bushings. Actually, they could probably be cut and pressd out if need be.
If anyone in the Northeast knows of someone with an old style track press, such as Lavoy has, please post on this thread, or email me at racinjason1@verizon.net Thanks

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Dec 11, 2012 8:48 am

One thing to keep in mind is that the external wear you see on the bushings in only one component of track wear. Yes, you can make the outside of the bushing kind of round again, but the internal wear never goes away, and you will still be out of pitch. Any sprocket you put on there will get ruined by the out of pitch track, and will just try to dig out any repair you have made.
This is a common mistake when judging tracks. A lot of people feel the outside of the bushing and if it feels round, they think the pins and bushings are good, and this is often not the case.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:24 am

Yes, I agree that doing pins and bushings is very dangerous. I found a company that would sell you a complete chain w/14" shoes for about the price of the pins and bushings from john deere, even with finding/buying new sprockets it's still less than pins and bushings from Deere. I haven't made the purchase yet since I am also going to use the chain until the end. Just think of the savings in bandaids!

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RacinJason
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40C tracks

Post by RacinJason » Tue Dec 11, 2012 12:15 pm

Lavoy, Good point! I hadn't noticed your last post. When I purchased this dozer, I didn't know the first thing about crawlers. Still don't, actually, but am learning fast, both from your Forum and from hands on experience.
My criteria, at the time,was, it had to be light enough to haul on my car trailer, had to work, and had to be afforable. There were several good deals around Corinth, ME, 420's 1010's, 350's, etc. for another thousand or two, "left turn only"s, engine stuck and whatnot. I would have prefered a 4 or 5 roller 40C or a 420-440, but I have what I have, and I'm sticking with it. :) By the way, anyone reading this, from the Northeast, can often find some good deals on "Uncle Henry's", a $2 weekly in Maine, or unclehenrys.com . Actually, I found this one on Craigslist.

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RacinJason
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40c tracks

Post by RacinJason » Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:03 pm

Ok, guys, I have started dissecting the segment of track I received from Farmer Johns. The bushings have been "rebushed" by welding in pieces of tubing, as I had considered doing. As Lavoy pointed out, this doesn't solve the pitch problem, as the internal wear is still there, causing "track stretch". Whoever did the job, must be congratulated, as I didn't even notice the repair at first. Nice job! Now, to disassemble, requires cutting thru the pins and bushings just inside both links. This separates the links and I can pop the old P&B out easily on my 30 Ton press. Some folks have mentioned cutting with a torch, but I have found it quite easy, and probably more economical to use 6x.060" cutoff wheels in my 4 1/2 " grinder. Forney sells 7" discs, which I could use in my 7 " Dewalt. It only taks a couple minutes to make two cuts per P&B and remove the "slug". If done neatly, it is easy to press out.
My 40C is presently "snowed in" in Maine, so I will probably bring the tracks back to Mass. in the early spring. By then I hope to have located someone locally with a track press or I will make a jig to hold the links and use a hydraulic ram to press in the new P&B's.
I'll be looking for comments and advice, thanks.

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jtrichard
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Post by jtrichard » Wed Jan 09, 2013 8:56 pm

if anyone is interested there are a couple of homemade track presses on youtube both work pretty good ...one is a little slow but the guy got both rails done
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper

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