2010 crawler - Hydraulic track tension cylinder removal

[buckhunter]

I’ve look the message board over looking for a method for removing the hydraulic track tension cylinder. Most post already have the cylinder off or was broken. The service manual I have doesn’t go into detail about removing the cylinder. Mine is leaking grease out the back of the cylinder. Do I have to remove the track to pull the cylinder? Once off where would I go about getting seals? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

[jtrichard]

yes you have to take off the track then just pull the cly off if you cant then pump it off with a grease gun as for seals JD IS IT as far as i know

[shinnery]

As anytime with parts check with Lavoy before going to Deere if you can handle the shipping time. If they are just O-ring seals you might try a local hydraulic repair shop first.
Bryce

[gregjo1948]

I was able to remove a cylinder on a 1010c without taking the track off. I pulled the idler forward with a comealong as far as possible and colapsing the cylinder. Keep in mind, my pins/bushings were totaly worn out, allowing me to pull the idler almost off the rail. Greg

[Tigerhaze]

You can remove off a 2010 without splitting tracks as well as long as you remove the four bolts at the front idler brackets AND able to slide the hydraulic cylinder piston beyond the sleeve bracket aligning it with the spring assembly. You would have to retract the piston fully to get it out. It is certainly easier with the track split so you can slide the front idler totally forward.

[LarryD]

I'm not familiar with these cylinders or the seals that they use but I found that Chicago Rawhide has a fantastic parts cross reference manual available online for free. Might be worth a try. I was able to.cross reference all the John Deere bearing and seal numbers that I needed for my reverser on my 420 to CR or SKF numbers.

Larry

[gregjo1948]

When I removed my leaking cylinder,(1010C) I was surprised to find a dust/wiper seal to the outside and brass used as the pressure leak seal. The outer seal was bad, allowing grime to foul the inner seal. After cleaning and springing the brass a bit larger, replacing the outer seal, installed and adjusted, I have a good cylinder. I removed a leaker from another 1010C and found a common looking seal. Perhaps someone can tell me if the brass was a factory deal or a machine shop replacement. Thanks, Greg

[05victorylly]

I have a track tensioner on my 2010 that is totally seized. Problem is it is seized with the track super tight. I'm almost wondering if its worth cutting the adjuster into pieces with a torch and removing it. Then I should be about replace it with a new one.

I tried to compress it with a come along then a chain and binder. And I even parked the 2010 against a stump and push on the front idler with my IH500 dozer and it will not budge.

[Tigerhaze]

I you couldn't budge it with another crawler, then I would think it is not going to budge at all unless you put some heat to it and then try to collapse it with the crawler again. You would need to be careful to not set the grease on fire when heating.

If that doesn't work, it seems like you might as well cut it because it is not likely to be free again. If I were to cut it I would do so at the bolted ends so you don't cut through the cylinder itself, and be sure not to cut the front idler bracketd that attach to the adjuster as it may be hard to find replacements.

[jtrichard]

can you get any slack in the chain when pushing with other dozer? if you can and your master pin is somewhat easy to get out i would pull it and then work on the adjuster.....if not and you have to cut some part of the adjuster i would cut the tube behind the piston portion and after its out then try to pump the cylinder off of the piston with a grease gun and then if the piston is still usable then re-tube the end you cut off i re-tubed one one mine it was almost wore through where it rides in the spring bracket ...the only thing i dont know is that yours being the later model the rear end of the tube is bigger and i dont know if it will go through the bracket without taking it off

[Howard Yoder]

did you take out the grease fitting. It lets it collaspe better then the bolt

[Tigerhaze]

did you take out the grease fitting. It lets it collaspe better then the bolt

Good point- I had assumed that they would have fitting open but you know what they say about assuming. The bolt has worked better for me but having both open can only help.

[05victorylly]

did you take out the grease fitting. It lets it collaspe better then the bolt

Good point- I had assumed that they would have fitting open but you know what they say about assuming. The bolt has worked better for me but having both open can only help.

Both fittings are out...it won't budge.

[Tigerhaze]

I think it comes down to your preference. If you would like the original look of the adjuster (restoration machine, etc.) or if you want it to match the other side then you can cut the ram and see about a repair of your original adjuster with a new ram and seals- IF you can get it apart after cutting.

If you just want to get it back in operation quickly then I would cut the ram to get it out and purchase an aftermarket adjuster. I don't know the price differential on the ram/seals and labor versus a complete aftermarket adjuster but it can't be too different since a new aftermarket adjuster is somewhere around $300 including shipping from Lavoy- although that was a year or two ago.

One nice thing about the aftermarket adjuster- the zerk fitting for adding grease is within a recessed housing with a screw on cover which keeps dirt and rocks away from it.

Even if you go with an aftermarket, it may be good to save the old adjuster housing because someone else may want to buy off of you if doing an original restoration.

[05victorylly]

I ended up getting the track adjuster broke free and its not functioning. It is leaking a little so I think it will need to be rebuilt, but thankfully its now moving freely and taking grease.

Are the seals on these things JD only parts?