grouser caulks

[Paul Buhler]

Hi: Winter's coming, so I am thinking to re-caulk my machine if time allows. I found 1" high "small" stock for my 420 in 10 ft lengths for about $50/length. The 7/8" high is actually a bit more expensive, but has a bit smaller breadth.
In the past there was a spring shop with a shear in Rutland, VT that would cut the stock into short pieces (I'm using nom. 2" this time), but they are no longer in business, so it looks like I'll be using a torch since that's what I have.
I have snow pads, so I'll be staggering the caulks 2-1 opposite those applied the last time, stick welding using 7018 rod - probably 1/8". On a bigger machine I used 5/32".
My calculations for 70 pads: 35x2 + 35x1= 105 pieces needed x 2" = 210" total. 20' = 240" which will allow for 1/4" torch kerf (105/4 = ~27"); so about $100 for stock, plus rod and acetylene.
The stock is readily available locally, so I'll probably pick it up and start cutting it into pieces and cleaning them up in preparation for a inside job at some point this winter.

Boy, the joys of a hobby machine. It's nice not having to do this job, but rather doing it as preventative maintenance on some day when I can crank up the wood furnace, let the steel warm up, set out the coffee and do as much as I want instead of "needing it tomorrow" - I remember those days too.

I know that shipping steel is expensive, Mac Steel in Rutland handles a variety of sizes if you are in this region and can pick it up. Google them for directions and a phone number.

[hydrogeo]

Are you concerned about a 1" caulk? Man, that is a lot of bite. Are you going to hardface the top surface of the caulks? Somebody intentionally rounded the corners on mine and ran a bead of what looks like nickel rod along the top.

[Lavoy]

If you want a neater edge than a torch, a cheap Harbor Freight cutoff saw would work great.
I would use the smallest stock you can get, especially if it is a little narrower, might weld on a little better.
Lavoy

[Paul Buhler]

Thanks Lavoy. I do own a chop saw, and hadn't thought of using it on this type of hardened steel - sometimes old habits get in the way. I'll give it a try. I plan to buy the grouser stock that best matches the need.

[Paul Buhler]

Are you concerned about a 1" caulk? Man, that is a lot of bite. Are you going to hardface the top surface of the caulks? Somebody intentionally rounded the corners on mine and ran a bead of what looks like nickel rod along the top.

You're right, that 1" high is a lot of bite, that's why I make them longer which lessens the penetration; on my 450, the bar was taller and I used 3'' caulks.
I live and generally run this machine in the woods - the caulks make a mess of the lawn and driveway, but they will build up the grouser, and feel very solid on my frozen driveway when I push back the snowbanks mid-winter, particularly when I'm side hill. In the woods with snow, the bite is moderated, and by summer the edges will be worn somewhat.
I've tried hard surfacing rod on them in the past, but decided that it took too much time for too little return - someone working in different soils might have a different opinion.
Thanks for the thoughts and comments - I enjoy learning from the discussion.
Paul

[pop pop]

i was planning to use 1.25" welded on top of the worn down grousers,,, puts it about 1.5" total...it'll be in the mountain loam with rocks, some of the grade will be mountainside,, almost too much for anything.
my next worry will be, putting a fuel pickup at both ends of the tank, haha.
i suppose oil pickup will have the same problem,

[Paul Buhler]

Hi: Took a look at my caulking project. The existing caulks stand about 1/2" proud of the grouser, so adding on the new caulks will reduce penetration somewhat, and stiffen the pad too - the pads are straight, flat, and have a good amount of material left.

Pop-Pop: I have added a rubber "radiator" hose extension to my hydraulic tank filler when working on steeper tasks with a loose soda can as a cover ( I like the tank modification I've seen that someone made to increase capacity, but don't think I need this) - I was getting tired of having oil slosh on my foot when working blade up on steeper pitches. My machine has a winch, making it a bit more tail heavy, which means that it backs up steeps somewhat better than driving up, (this helps with fuel and oil pick up too) and I can keep the blade low . I like having the blade down hill if there's loose rock - easier to control when the machine starts to get turned side hill if one acts like a roller under one track. I can also put out cable and tie into a big tree which if snubbed will keep me from getting too sideways. Once I get to where I want to be, I usually build some sort of a road. Working on the kind of steeps you're talking about is challenging and tiring - good luck. Paul