new to post... am thinking on trying a jd2010...for winter project...5 minutees up the road...claims was running but someone stole the dust cap from distributor and cannot locate another anywhere... asking $2000 for it so am leary of non running unit at that price....serial number is 532487 believe that checks to be a 1964 unit....is a number on side of engine shows t-18277-t...serial says weight s/b about 9500lb...he claims only weighs across scales at 6800lb
any info or suggestions?
by the way...am located in akron, ohio area
thks
dtoots1
jd2010
Lavoy may have the dust cap if not ...dust cap on eBay $13 shipped ....9500+lbs. is about right ....what is it dozer? loader? loader is about 11000 lbs. can you get any pics? that ser.# is just about the last made one thing about the price if it don't work out you can part it out and scrap the rest and you wont lose (hate to see scraped) 
if you want i would get the dust cap and try to get her to run (if seller will let you )then you can check out the steering clutches and others things
if you want i would get the dust cap and try to get her to run (if seller will let you )then you can check out the steering clutches and others things2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
I agree with Richard that you are not going to lose much money if it didn't work out as it would scrap close to that value or could be parted out. I would probably be on it if it were 5 minutes from me.
There is something wrong with that serial number- it should be a five digit number. assuming you typed an extra digit by mistake, then it would be a later model 2010. The serial number for a late 2010 should be on right side behind engine (not on it) on a flat area of bellhousing. if you got it off the engine then it is likely a engine serial number or part number and it is not the crawler serial number. Early 2010s do have the serial number data plate on right side engine block but should be a lower five digit number (less than 42,000).
The late model 2010 is more desireable (in my opinion) because it uses 350 tracks. Parts are tough enough to find on 2010s.
The weight for a bare 2010 crawler is around 8500 lbs (I think) so owner is wrong about going over scales at 6800 lbs unless it is missing major parts like roller and sprocket shields and counterweights. It sounds like it is a dozer rather than loader which would be around 12,500 lbs.
One big question- what does the undercarriage look like (especially sprockets)? If they are worn out then you are looking at thousands to replace unless you use it very infrequently and you can't get new sprockets like you can for a 350. The part number on the sprockets is usually an indirect indicator of a pre- or post-42,000 serial number crawler unless someone changed the sprockets.
there is A LOT of information on what to look for on a 2010 if you search the post archives on here.
There is something wrong with that serial number- it should be a five digit number. assuming you typed an extra digit by mistake, then it would be a later model 2010. The serial number for a late 2010 should be on right side behind engine (not on it) on a flat area of bellhousing. if you got it off the engine then it is likely a engine serial number or part number and it is not the crawler serial number. Early 2010s do have the serial number data plate on right side engine block but should be a lower five digit number (less than 42,000).
The late model 2010 is more desireable (in my opinion) because it uses 350 tracks. Parts are tough enough to find on 2010s.
The weight for a bare 2010 crawler is around 8500 lbs (I think) so owner is wrong about going over scales at 6800 lbs unless it is missing major parts like roller and sprocket shields and counterweights. It sounds like it is a dozer rather than loader which would be around 12,500 lbs.
One big question- what does the undercarriage look like (especially sprockets)? If they are worn out then you are looking at thousands to replace unless you use it very infrequently and you can't get new sprockets like you can for a 350. The part number on the sprockets is usually an indirect indicator of a pre- or post-42,000 serial number crawler unless someone changed the sprockets.
there is A LOT of information on what to look for on a 2010 if you search the post archives on here.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
tiger which right side is that? lol (':lol:') yes the pre 42000 is on right side of engine but the post 42000 is on the left side (your other right) just to the rear of the starter
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
jd2010
ok..am ignorant of details...number i got off the right side of engine on a tag plate near generator....it is a dozer blade width is 91 inches has winch on rear...claims bad seal can be replaced..big son of gun....will look to see if i can find tractor serial number on bell housing? or near starter?
will try to get pics w/digital camera so can post tho i dont see how to attach to this message board..also says uses water when it gets hot and then is hard to start...i checked fan and it actually appears loose like belt slipping or is it a clutch type fan? alsohas a week drive on right side. advise if any numbers or id would be on distributor...i notice jd 2010 parts shows numerous different distributors tho dont know if specific to units.
tks
dtoots1
just found where insert image icon is....
will try to get pics w/digital camera so can post tho i dont see how to attach to this message board..also says uses water when it gets hot and then is hard to start...i checked fan and it actually appears loose like belt slipping or is it a clutch type fan? alsohas a week drive on right side. advise if any numbers or id would be on distributor...i notice jd 2010 parts shows numerous different distributors tho dont know if specific to units.
tks
dtoots1
just found where insert image icon is....
if the tag is on right side of engine just to the rear of the gen. it should be under 42000 if its over 42000 then it would be on the bell housing just to the rear of starter ...as tiger said you have one to many numbers in the ser.# so it maybe 32487? if it is it should have canister type fuel and oil filters and the upper idler (for the track)is more to the rear than center...... if it still has the original tracks they will be the small pin ...the t-18277 is a part#/casting#
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
jd2010
ok guys..i went back and tag is showing the 2010c on it along with the number 32487..tried to take photos but looks like batteries died on it gotta get new ones...measured 4 track pads at 35 inchs and rollers for the 4 at 25 inches from 1st pin in rear roller to last edge of roller casting?
is 4 cyl gas and i think i found the dust cover inside one of the roller rails.
the front wheel guides/rim measure measure 3/4in ddep, sprockets look good teeth measure 7/8in high and curved depth is about 1 1/4 in. adjuster rod exposed measures 4 1/2 inches. only number i see on the winch is t18591t.
btw i also have an old jd40s farm tractor...2 cyl popper use it for snow plowing got a rigged up wheelhorse blade on it using 3 point with pulleys, hey it gets job done i aint shoveling no more. now i gotta find out what year this 2010 is and get your answers as to whether worth pursuing.
is 4 cyl gas and i think i found the dust cover inside one of the roller rails.
the front wheel guides/rim measure measure 3/4in ddep, sprockets look good teeth measure 7/8in high and curved depth is about 1 1/4 in. adjuster rod exposed measures 4 1/2 inches. only number i see on the winch is t18591t.
btw i also have an old jd40s farm tractor...2 cyl popper use it for snow plowing got a rigged up wheelhorse blade on it using 3 point with pulleys, hey it gets job done i aint shoveling no more. now i gotta find out what year this 2010 is and get your answers as to whether worth pursuing.
jd2010
on the dust cover that i found in the track....shows to be electric autolite co pat. pend. with a locator arrow pointing to a slot on top. is a little deformed but looks like it would set in place correctly...no broken.
looks like plug wires removed from dist...not sure how am gonna find where to place wires on dist to get her to fire up..presume number 1 at front near radiator. will try again to get pics.
thks
dtoots1
looks like plug wires removed from dist...not sure how am gonna find where to place wires on dist to get her to fire up..presume number 1 at front near radiator. will try again to get pics.
thks
dtoots1
looking at my book it looks like #1 on dist. is closest to oil filter (straight forward) then in clock wise #2 #4 #3..... #3 closest to block #2 closest to frame and #1 cly. is closest to radiator
2010 with 622 dozer with mod. 35 ripper and a 2010 with 622 dozer bought in 1969 and a 2010 loader with drott and mod. 36 ripper
jd2010
ok...
1st ques...engine number 1 cyl is what...right at front? then is 1 2 3 4 to rear?
2nd..after looking at pics if i can upload...what would be prognosis for relative life left of undercarriage with the dims i gave earlier?
have pics now will try to upload a few
btw...i found the NEW plug wires in box laying on ground walked on and wet...any comments on that dust cover??? kinda sounds like an original to me as never heard of autolite being called...electric autolite co..[/img]
hmmm, dont look like i can get pics on this easily..do i need to turn on hml of something?
I think i will try to send email to lavoy with the group...mb he can get em posted????? i only have them on my pc desktop...are not online anywhere.
1st ques...engine number 1 cyl is what...right at front? then is 1 2 3 4 to rear?
2nd..after looking at pics if i can upload...what would be prognosis for relative life left of undercarriage with the dims i gave earlier?
have pics now will try to upload a few
btw...i found the NEW plug wires in box laying on ground walked on and wet...any comments on that dust cover??? kinda sounds like an original to me as never heard of autolite being called...electric autolite co..[/img]
hmmm, dont look like i can get pics on this easily..do i need to turn on hml of something?
I think i will try to send email to lavoy with the group...mb he can get em posted????? i only have them on my pc desktop...are not online anywhere.
Well, it sounds like you have the early 2010 so pins/bushings are same as for a 1010. Thus you will want to make sure you have good rail height as new rails (track links) are NLA.
The useful measurements comparable to book values are pin/busing wear and link height. For other wear, I don't have new values memorized but we can help you best on judging undercarriage by looking at some photos. Bottom roller wear is usually indicated by pin booss wear- sprocket wear is typically by degree of roundness of the sprocket teeth, etc. This is a good thread to read about general undercarriage inspection:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=1214
You can put photos directly on this site- you need to have them hosted elsewhere (on a site such as Photobucket) and then link to them in your post. I have step by step instructions for doing so from photobucket in this thread:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=3690
By the way JTRichard, yes I got my left mixed up with right for the late serial number location. Guess I got in a hurry typing with my two right hands
The useful measurements comparable to book values are pin/busing wear and link height. For other wear, I don't have new values memorized but we can help you best on judging undercarriage by looking at some photos. Bottom roller wear is usually indicated by pin booss wear- sprocket wear is typically by degree of roundness of the sprocket teeth, etc. This is a good thread to read about general undercarriage inspection:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=1214
You can put photos directly on this site- you need to have them hosted elsewhere (on a site such as Photobucket) and then link to them in your post. I have step by step instructions for doing so from photobucket in this thread:
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=3690
By the way JTRichard, yes I got my left mixed up with right for the late serial number location. Guess I got in a hurry typing with my two right hands
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
I just checked it and the link to the thread and all the links within that thread appear to work- you may try pasting them directly into your browser.
(1) JD Straight 450 crawler dozer with manual outside blade; (2) JD 2010 diesel crawler loaders; (1) JD 2010 diesel dozer with hydraulic 6-way blade; (2) Model 50 backhoe attachments, misc. other construction equipment
jd2010
yes...i did get it to work...tho several times it came back as no longer available...
.what i did get to was the pdf file that goes into great details with drawings pictographs of measuring wear on the carriage etc...
my main concern...if is early 2010 aND track/carriage parts NLA...what is value of restoring even if is some life left in unit....resale value cannot be great enough to use for year or 2 and get money back???? I really dont want to work butt off get it running and then end up scrapping to get cost back.
better to get a 350 or newer?????? at what price range do these go?
btw..have about 20 pics in .jpg file, i can email for review but cant post as do not have online.
tks, dtoots1
.what i did get to was the pdf file that goes into great details with drawings pictographs of measuring wear on the carriage etc...
my main concern...if is early 2010 aND track/carriage parts NLA...what is value of restoring even if is some life left in unit....resale value cannot be great enough to use for year or 2 and get money back???? I really dont want to work butt off get it running and then end up scrapping to get cost back.
better to get a 350 or newer?????? at what price range do these go?
btw..have about 20 pics in .jpg file, i can email for review but cant post as do not have online.
tks, dtoots1
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 62 guests