Welding up a ROPS

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Captainjoe
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Welding up a ROPS

Post by Captainjoe » Fri Jan 18, 2013 3:54 pm

Going to use 1/4 thick 2" square stock.
want to mount to:
A. To upper side front hood holes
B.side frame in front of dash or to the JD 612 hydraulic dozer frame (holes behind upperhydraulic rams)
C. the 4 bolt area on the rear of both final drives...

Was thinking I could make the box wider in the back if i canted ROPS
frame out and up on both sides and aligned with the frame of the 612.
That way the ROPS would narrow towards the front like the modern versions do(to deflect things)

read anyting less than 1/4 stock will get you killed
and to mount onto something SOLID...

thats about as solid as one can get.

Any tips or advice welcome...
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

Zed
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ROPS

Post by Zed » Fri Jan 18, 2013 10:15 pm

I have a ROPS on my crawler. I can send you a photo if you like.

KenP
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Post by KenP » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:05 am

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:52 am

Technically it won't be a true ROPS, "federally approved, built and tested by engineers", but it will be much more than a roll bar.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe there ever was a ROPS specifically made for a JD 440

Most are either basterdized 350 conversions of are of the homade ROPS variety.
Either way, most I've seen are attached to the rear fenders and that is not a solid mounting point.

with a vertical 1/4" thick x 2" square tube, welded and centered to a 1/2" 4 hole plate, bolted to the rear of both finals, center vertical supports bolted mid frame, front horizontal support bolted to top of cast front end. add cross bracing, a 1/4" x 3' x 5' long steel top
along with seat belts and some zip tied foam on structure around operator, should complete the package.

If I ever sell it I will make it a point of saying its a Homade ROPS

But I don't think I'll ever sell this baby....
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sat Jan 19, 2013 10:41 am

Correct that there were no factory ROPS for 440, and I am not even sure if the factory canopy that was available on 350 and 450 was a ROPS, more likely a FOPS. I would never assume, state, say, or intimate that any sort of canopy is a ROPS unless it is a factory part number, and listed by the manufacturer as a ROPS, otherwise, they are just a big sunshade.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:42 am

point well taken!...
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:09 pm

Now let's start back with the original post, the guy is asking advice on building ROPS. No matter what he builds(properly built using the correct material, proper welding techniques, and properly supporting the structure, anything will make an improvement vs having nothing, no matter what it is called. I called mine ROPS because I ran out of room on the subject post! Even if anyone of us had proper"ROPS" bought and installed on our crawlers the sheer impact of a severe roll over would break our neck or spine. I personally know a teacher that died because he was pushing over trees with his Oliver OC3. There was a branch that fell that did it. Even if he had a simple square frame around the cab there is a good chance he would of been fine. My advice to you Captainjoe,build your cage or whatever anyone wants to call it. Build it strong, use lots of gussits,grind anywhere before you weld, run multiple passes of weld to build the weld up as thick as the material your welding. Trust me you will be smiling even every time some tree branch smacks the side of the cage, and not you!

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Post by Lavoy » Sat Jan 19, 2013 12:30 pm

I should have clarified what I said. I meant that I would not sell what I had built to another person and call it a ROPS. I fully understand calling it a ROPS, I call it the same thing sometimes even if it is not. I agree that anything is WAY better than nothing, and I have no doubt that what he is going build is going to function just fine, and will undoubtedly function as a ROPS, my only comment was to the possibility of calling it a ROPS if it is sold to another person.
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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:56 pm

captainjoe, here is a link to the Cage I made. page 2

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... php?t=7522

if you would like any ideas or pictures I would be glad to help out. it sounds like you are building this on a 440, so it would be pretty identical to what I did. There is some things I would of done differently to make it better and more robust but it would of cut down on my visibility.

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Post by KenP » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:24 pm

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Gil
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Post by Gil » Sat Jan 19, 2013 4:56 pm

CaptainJoe, You mentioned "along with seat belts and some zip tied foam on structure around the operator".
On my JD70 skid loader I modified the cage so it would fit in my barn to clean manure. I used some of those inexpensive kids swimming pool "noodles" I think they call them, tied to the 2X2 steel frame. I don't think OSHA would approve, but the foam has held up very well and protected my head from a number of nasty bumps. I was even able to get them in yellow to match my John Deere Ag green and yellow paint job. Quite snazzy for a Dollar Store item. Gil
JD440-ICD loader; JD440-IC bulldozer; JD440-ICD backhoe; JD440-I backhoe; JD440-I tractor; + five recumbent JD440-ICs

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:52 pm

notmenu - yup thats pretty cool... I would add verticle center supports and cross bracing so it doesnt move if it takes a hit on the side

KenP - I won't call it a ROPS for the reasons stated above. However, i can gaurentee should it roll over it will not bend or break away from the structure.
After reading up on ROPS, when they certify something they must ether do a crush test or use steel known to retain it's strength even in cold weather.

Any modification to a 350 ROPS to fit a 440 would render it null and void.
So it's either make one or do without.

Already got the estimate of two 24' long pieces. As far as welding, while I'm personally no sloach at it, my wife Penny can weld circles aroud me... you see she use to weld the crane booms together for GROVE MFG. in Shadygrove Pa.

the other thing Im going to add is the hand grabs like is on my CASE 680 H and I wwant to slightly bow the 1/4" steel down the center of the top. will cut 3" x 1/8" slots with cutting torch and weld to the top of the square tubing.

Gil- Ha that's a great idea, as someone posted before somethings better than nothing and even though I'm a hard head I believe the steel would stilll probably win.

I hear what you guys are saying... the reason I'm doing this is the guy i bought the farm off of, knew the ex-fire chief in Mont Alto WV. Ten 10 years ago? he got killed by a 6" branch coming down across the top of his dozer...

yet another reason to beef my design up...
Last edited by Captainjoe on Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

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notmeu
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Post by notmeu » Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:57 pm

Now that sounds like that lawyer kind of talk! Sorry if you thought I was stepping on toes but it originally sounded like the post started off asking about material and where to mount it too!!!!!

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sat Jan 19, 2013 6:48 pm

notmeu wrote:Now that sounds like that lawyer kind of talk! Sorry if you thought I was stepping on toes but it originally sounded like the post started off asking about material and where to mount it too!!!!!
Thats exactly what i was looking for.

as far as I'm concerned this project will be "My Roll Over Protection" .... as ROPS implys something, and I can live with that.

I will however, always give people my advice when asked... even if it's just to say "I don't kow".

People are to sue happy these days, it just makes me sick.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

KenP
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Post by KenP » Sat Jan 19, 2013 7:04 pm

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