Governor lever stuck on 440IC

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 12:06 pm

I'd really like to get behind the dash, in order to do some re-wiring and install new tubing to the oil pressure gage. However, the governor lever (also known as "Lever, speed control" Key #2, p/n T 11010T, p.21 of the parts list) is rusted solid to the shaft that goes thru the dash to the U-joint. In addition, the U-joint itself is real sloppy and another reason to get the lever off is to replace the U-joint too.

I am currently dosing it with various penetrating oils, a bit of heat, and patience, but not getting anywhere. Previous owner, a close friend, recalls that this was always a problem for him too. Possibly stuck there since he got the machine in 1977. Before the cutoff wheel goes on the angle grinder (sacrificing the shaft, not the lever, of course) I wondered if anyone might have been through this and have a few tricks to share.

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 3:52 pm

Mine I removed the lever and tapped it down and out.
I think I had to remove the tank.

Duke

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Feb 26, 2013 4:14 pm

Lots of heat.
Lavoy

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 10:19 am

Thanks Duke and Lavoy. The problem with applying heat is that the lever is really close to the dash and there are gages immediately next to it. Putting enough heat on it to make a difference is going to cook those gages for sure.

Upon further consideration, I realized I can't cut off the shaft as I mentioned earlier, because I can't see it. The boss on the governor lever extends down below the dash.

I might have hit upon a brainstorm, though. I am thinking about drilling and tapping straight down into the lever, then by threading in a bolt, it will tend to pull the lever off the shaft. There are some details to this idea that I'll have to make sure I get right. Must not drill and tap too deep. The idea fails if I make threads in the shaft too. Must get enough threads so they don't just strip out. Must use a bottoming tap.

It might just work.

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 7:39 am

Were you able to remove the machine screw/bolt from the top side center of the lever?
I use penetrating oil called Kroil.
Has worked most every time.

Duke

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:10 am

Hi Duke:

There is no bolt on the top side center of the lever. There is a setscrew that comes in from the side. There are three different levers for the 440, shown across pg 20-22 (actual page number, not the PDF page number) at this link:

http://jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/pdfs/PC0573.pdf

Pg 20 shows two of the levers. Mine is #2; sounds like Duke is talking about #42 which does show a bolt in the center. (A third style of lever, which moves linearly back and forth rather than rotating, is shown on page 22)

My idea is to drill out my lever so it more or less ends up looking like #42, then, tapping the hole with a bottoming tap. Then I can install a bolt (as well as liberal amounts of penetrating oil; I like Kroil too) and it should act as a puller. Plenty of heat, too. And, if it ends up that the wall is too thin and my threads strip out, the next action will be to weld a nut on.

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:38 am

I do recall the different levers.
I'm sitting in the sun down in southern Florida

Found a week to relax.

Attach a slide hammer to the bottom side and gently tap her free.
I had one stuck up front over the engine as well as the dash.
I'm trying to remember the acronym....
Penetrating oil
Pressure
Pounding
Patients??

Duke

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 9:00 am

Hey Duke:

Florida, huh? I'm in New England and it's been 33F and pouring rain for the last two days. I'd rather have sunny and dry and 10F, personally. Or, 70F would be great too!

Problem with slide hammer is that the lever extends down below the sheetmetal dash. No way to get the arms of the puller onto it unless I do some damage to the dash. Not quite ready to go there, since I *think* my drill & tap idea has a good shot and will be pretty nondestructive overall. The other worry about the slide hammer is where the forces are going... as you beat on the lever, you are also beating against a boss which is cast into the dash support structure. I am concerned about busting off that boss.

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:03 pm

Yep Florida

If you remove the hood you can see where the shaft comes through the cast behind the dash.
Is the lever cast aluminum? I don't remember...

We left home and the freezing rain had just turned to snow.
Ours was the last flight out before they closed the airport.

Duke

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 12:26 pm

have you tried to pull pin #7 and take the shaft out that way?

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:33 pm

Duke: lever is forged steel, I believe. Definitely not aluminum. It is rusted! I have removed the setscrew (#3 on the diagram) that holds the lever, which was also rusted, but I managed. With the setscrew out, it gives you a look "inside" so to speak. Rusty. I am applying Kroil into that hole, tapping it with a hammer, and applying heat and patience. Not getting anywhere yet.

jtrichard: that would be a great idea, if it was possible to access that pin. However it's way up underneath the big casting that supports the dash, the hood, the rear of the tank, etc. No way I can see to get a hammer and punch onto the pin. Just no clear shot at it.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 6:12 pm

i did not know how much room or lack of there was .... just a thought... i was looking at parts break down.... can you get a hold of any of the old asbestos siding to use to protect the dash and heat the crap out of it as fast as possible while trying to twist it

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:29 am

jtrichard: Thanks! I appreciate your comments. While I don't have a line on some old asbestos, I have done very similar things with a plain piece of sheetmetal. As long as there's an air gap under it, sheetmetal makes an excellent heat shield. This is a very good thought.

I have more than my fair share of experience wrenching rusty old stuff and I have all the basics covered... heat, penetrating oil, patience. I suppose, my reason for posting here was to see if anyone had been-there-done-that and knew of either some non-obvious trick, or maybe a non-obvious technical detail getting in the way.

I appreciate ALL the comments! It's like brainstorming; even if the ideas being tossed around don't work, the beauty is that one or more of these ideas might be the trigger that sparks the idea that DOES finally work.

soffiler · Post by **soffiler** » Fri Mar 01, 2013 7:50 pm

Success! The drill and tap idea posted above worked like a champ.

DukeofDeere · Post by **DukeofDeere** » Sat Mar 02, 2013 4:23 pm

Alright!
Glad it worked.

Restorative wrenching is good therapy!

Duke

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Governor lever stuck on 440IC

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