440 gas timing

[bob lavoie]

I purchased my first crawler, a 1963 440 gas. It was popping out of the exhaust pipe, and was running a little rough. The boots on the wires were falling apart so I replaced them, new 216 plugs in it, cleaned up the points and closed the gap a little bit. It runs much better now and is not popping out the exhaust. I would like to know if anyone has the timing procedure and correct setting for this engine? I would like to make sure it is correct. I did go through several pages of the search area but didn't find anything. I have a good mechanical background but this is my first crawler. Any help is appreciated, I like the forum and web page, learned a lot already.

[jtrichard]

welcome aboard just so you know 1960 was the last year they made a 440 from the JD chart they were built from 58 to 60 then the 1010/2010 went into production

[bob lavoie]

Hmm i had read the same thing, but also found somewhere that deere made them up to 63 as well. It does say 440 on both sides and does say 440ic on the ID tag. The serial number seems to be much later then what I find when looking for parts though. Mine looks just like this one that Lavoy just posted.

Only difference I can see is this one has the blade control in a box on the right fender and mine is on the right side of the console. I will get the serial number maybe that will help. I would love to know what year it is for sure. Thanks for the reply! I am loving my new crawler.

[Lavoy]

Yes, 1960 was the last year of production in spite of what some serial number charts might say.
Timing is 23 degrees advanced at high idle.
Lavoy

[bob lavoie]

Here is the serial number, 448280 I think that makes it a 1959?

Thanks for the timing spec Lavoy

[soffiler]

I just set static timing on my 440 last weekend. I'll probably recheck it with a timing light when I finish up the current projects (valve lash adjustment, some rewiring, cleaning up starter and generator, etc) and get it running again.

There's a window on the right side of the bellhousing; partially obscured by a bracket supporting the hydraulic valve assembly but you can see into it from an angle with some good light. It's behind a little stamped metal cover. Pull the sparkplugs, roll the engine over manually until you're coming up on compression on #1 (they say to hold your thumb over the #1 sparkplug hole until you feel pressure... I had the valve cover off, so I could verify where I was by watching the valve action). Now roll the engine slowly while watching in that window for a line labeled "SPARK" to appear. (If you see a line labeled D-C instead, that's TDC, and you went too far) Set that SPARK line in the middle of the window.

Next, if the points aren't pitted, clean them up gently with something like a business card and a bit of residue-free contact cleaner; avoid emery or sandpaper. If they are heavily pitted and there's material transfer (little hills on one side and valleys on the other) replace them. There are good reasons not to file points, which I can get into if anybody is curious... although these tough old machines will run pretty good even if the ignition system is barely functional, I like to keep everything up to snuff. Set the points gap to 0.022".

Now, hook up some kind of continuity meter or a self-powered test light across the points. Loosen the distributor bolts just enough that you can move it. Put the rotor back on the distributor shaft, temporarily, and use it to manually turn the shaft fully counter-clockwise against the advance mechanism. Now, still holding that rotor full CCW, rotate the distributor to set it such that the points are JUUUSSSTTT starting to open (they are just coming off the flat area of the cam and starting to hit the lobe). Your test light or continuity meter should be just on the verge of turning off.

[bob lavoie]

Wow Soffiler thanks for the detailed reply. I appreciate that and it is exactly the info I needed. I assume a timing light hooked to the number one plug wire and flashing through that window in the bell housing would allow you to set the timing while its running at the recommended 23*? Just like setting it on a vehicle. Thanks again for your help! Also you mentioned you were checking your valve lash, can you tell me what the recommended specs are for the intake and exhaust valve?

[soffiler]

Wow Soffiler thanks for the detailed reply. I appreciate that and it is exactly the info I needed. I assume a timing light hooked to the number one plug wire and flashing through that window in the bell housing would allow you to set the timing while its running at the recommended 23*? Just like setting it on a vehicle. Thanks again for your help! Also you mentioned you were checking your valve lash, can you tell me what the recommended specs are for the intake and exhaust valve?

I have both the Service Manual and the Operator's Manual, and both discuss the static technique, but only one of them (can't recall which) mentions the timing-light procedure. Since I wasn't using that procedure, I paid less attention to it. There is always the question of the advance mechanism. From memory, the timing-light procedure is done at high RPM, something like 2200rpm +/- 25 but don't quote me on that; I don't have my manuals handy. Timing will be different at other RPM's due to the action of the centrifugal advance mechanism.

I saw Lavoy's response but I don't know how you'd find 23-deg on the motor unless you attach a Degree Wheel to it. The only marks, at least on my flywheel, are the "D-C" (TDC) and "SPARK" as described in my post. The SPARK line must be at 23-deg BTDC, I suppose.

Valve lash is .015" both intake and exhaust. I found mine, all four, around .008". And I found undisturbed paint on the nuts holding down the valve cover so I guess it had been a while! (Machine was probably repainted sometime in the mid 1970's from what I know of its history).

Speaking of valve cover, I did some quick checking around for gaskets and all I could find (again, only a quick look) was complete engine sets. I cut my own from cork gasket stock from NAPA.

[bob lavoie]

[/quote]I saw Lavoy's response but I don't know how you'd find 23-deg on the motor unless you attach a Degree Wheel to it. The only marks, at least on my flywheel, are the "D-C" (TDC) and "SPARK" as described in my post. The SPARK line must be at 23-deg BTDC, I suppose.[/quote]

My timing light has a dial on the back of it, so I turn that dial to say 23* and then the light should flash the spark line in the center if the window. That's how we set crank triggers as well on drag cars. The balancer is marked at TDC, with the light flashing you can turn the dial on the light until the timing marks line up then read what the dial on the light says.

[bob lavoie]

I saw Lavoy's response but I don't know how you'd find 23-deg on the motor unless you attach a Degree Wheel to it. The only marks, at least on my flywheel, are the "D-C" (TDC) and "SPARK" as described in my post. The SPARK line must be at 23-deg BTDC, I suppose.[/quote]

My timing light has a dial on the back of it, so I turn that dial to say 23* and then the light should flash the spark line in the center if the window. That's how we set crank triggers as well on drag cars. The balancer is marked at TDC, with the light flashing you can turn the dial on the light until the timing marks line up then read what the dial on the light says.

[soffiler]

My timing light has a dial on the back of it, so I turn that dial to say 23* and then the light should flash the spark line in the center if the window. That's how we set crank triggers as well on drag cars. The balancer is marked at TDC, with the light flashing you can turn the dial on the light until the timing marks line up then read what the dial on the light says.

Ah... good point. I've got a decent timing light, not that I use it much anymore, but mine doesn't have the variable feature, so I forget they exist sometimes. I do understand how they work, though.

If you set your timing light to 23 BTDC, and you're running at the correct high RPM, your light will light up the TDC mark, not the SPARK mark. I am sure you already know that from building drag motors. You probably said "spark line" above by accident.

[Lavoy]

Sorry, should have qualified that. Yes, 23 degrees with an advance timing light on DC, SPARK with a standard timing light.
Lavoy

[bob lavoie]

Where should the tdc mark be lined up in the window while the timing light is flashing? Top of window, center, or bottom edge of window?

[Lavoy]

Dead center, if you look close, you can see the register lines on each side of the hole.
Lavoy

[bob lavoie]

That's what I figured just wanted to make sure. Thanks Lavoy