Rebuilt final drives

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
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Captainjoe
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Rebuilt final drives

Post by Captainjoe » Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:27 am

Well, let me start by saying, if it weren't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all....

Rebuilt both final drives with parts from Lavoy "many thanks".

When assembling the clutch pac I noticed the end of the splined shaft where the bearing goes was broken off. I bought one off of Howard Yoder and installed.

Being one to dot myi's and cross my t's I put FD's on dozer, made the throw out bearing and brake adjustments, fired it up and put in gear.

Left side moved, the right side did not, just made a clicking sound.

So I swapped final drives and now the left side wasn't working.

Took off and compared splines on the shafts that go into tranny . The new shaft was only about 1 3/4" - 2" long on the end that goes into the tranny. The one that the end is brokeoff is about 4"??? (both of the original shafts splines were 4")
The shiny part of the 4" shaft splines started 1 3/4" from the end and continued approximately another 1 3/4"

That's why the short splined shaft wasn't working... the splined were either too short, or, someone put the transmission back together wrong??? is this possible???.

there is approximately a 3 3/4 spot in middle of transmission that isn't splined(where spring goes)


Going to have to find someone with a lathe to fix old shaft.

Anyone else have this problem?
Last edited by Captainjoe on Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:31 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:03 am

You will sometimes see the splines in the ring gear carrier stripped out. I have had a few where they have shortened the drive shaft to get it into new splines. The ring gear hub should have splines all the way through normally.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:55 am

whats the chances of getting a ring gear hub ?
Last edited by Captainjoe on Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

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440 iron popper
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Post by 440 iron popper » Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:12 am

Yes. This is a problem for me also. Stripped hub and splines shortened to reach ''new'' splines. You can get some more life out of the transmission by doing that. In my case, inner and outer splines gave all they had. I found out a replacement hub. Lavoy might have one. Look at the pictures on this thread:

http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... c&start=15
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
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JimAnderson
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final drives

Post by JimAnderson » Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:14 am

Ring gear carrier would be broached with a splinecutter from one side
to the other .No reason to under cut the center area and remove the splines there.If you find a ring gear carrier clean the spline area really
good and look inside with a flashlight to make sure that the splines in the wear area are good.If you just casually glance at the carrier the
splines on the first inch or so will be like new.The wear area is further
up inside.Biggest problem with finding a good one is that the gear
carrier that is used on the crawler is unique to that model.
Luck,JimAnderson

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440 iron popper
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Re: final drives

Post by 440 iron popper » Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:26 am

JimAnderson wrote:Biggest problem with finding a good one is that the gear
carrier that is used on the crawler is unique to that model.
Luck,JimAnderson
You're right Jim. Earlier crawlers have the ring gear bolted on (440001-448000). And later crawlers have the ring gear riveted.

I wish sometimes i had a 3D printer when a hard to find part like this is needed!!!!
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
-------------------------------------------------------

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:00 am

on the 4" splined shafts... it looks like someone welded around the shaft (built it up) and then turned on a lathe and cut new splines . if I can get the ring gear hub, I would fix the broken shaft and should be a permanent fix... seeing as how youd havea4"spline meshing with a 4"spline...

Wonder why mother deere didn't do this in the first place"
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

JimAnderson
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steering clutches

Post by JimAnderson » Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:22 pm

Just a guess but I don't think John Deere ever invisioned that 50 years
after they were built that these old girls would still be used.There is
definitely a serial number break on the 440 transmissions as iron
popper points out and if you are locating used parts then that is
something to keep in mind for sure.My comments were to point out
that while most internal transmission parts are interchangable from
wheel tractors to crawlers the ring gear for crawlers were only put
in crawlers.This greatly reduces the potential sources for the carrier
you need.Just be sure to inspect the splines deep in the carrier care-
fully.Luck,JimAnderson

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:12 pm

Thanks Lavoy, Jim, and 440 Iron Popper. Really appreciate it.


I've got the early bolt on ring gear model.

Anyone got any ring gear hubs?

will ring gear hubs from a 1010 or other tractor work?

How hard are they to get out?


If I shorten the new shaft 1 3/4" I'm going to have to find a longer spring for the middle, or, just put cut off portion in the middle...hum...
Last edited by Captainjoe on Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
It's better to seek forgivness than to ask for permission...

JimAnderson
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final drives

Post by JimAnderson » Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:50 pm

I believe that the 1010 carrier is rivetted.If you were referring to getting
the carrier out then the finals have to come off again.The quills need to come off, then the carrier and gear can come out of the back of the case.
If you don't have a service manual for your machine then i suggest
strongly that you get one.When you replace the carrier you need to set
preload and backlash.The proceedure in the service manual shows how
to do this with the trans out of the machine.I don't think you can set
preload with the steering clutch housings in place.Luck,JimAnderson

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Captainjoe
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Post by Captainjoe » Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:51 pm

got the book

need the ring gear hub minus the ring gear as it has to be matched to the pinion.

don't have to remove transmission.


just remove quills... and final drives ...Piece of cake...

just rebuilt finals and that wasn't to bad...
(course I had to call Lavoy a time or two but he didn't seem to mind)

It's for a early model 440 ICD Ser 454051
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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:19 pm

All diesel use the large hub, I have one, but not here, would take a couple weeks to get it from the farm.
Pretty sure it won't come out anyway without trans teardown unless you torch off the PTO shaft.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

Howard Yoder
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Post by Howard Yoder » Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:21 pm

If you get up this way and can't use the shaft then give me a heads up and will return your money for the shaft if it is still good.
Howard

JimAnderson
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Final drives

Post by JimAnderson » Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:39 pm

I just did a 430 5speed and the last thing in the case was the ring gear
carrier.Preload and backlash got set beforehand.When Fred gets back to Vermont he may have a carrier.A lot of folks on here get parts from him
as he parts out a lot of JD crawlers.To get the carrier in the case with
everything else in place the quills need to be out.Luck,JimAnderson

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440 iron popper
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Post by 440 iron popper » Sun Mar 31, 2013 5:59 pm

It is strange that you have the older hub model in there. The 440icd and 1010 have the same hub t11388t (with rivets). 440, 440ICD and 1010 share the same steering shaft M1635t. Does your transmission have a dipstick? It looked like there has been modifications in your crawler or part swaps. And believe me it is possible :lol:

I suggest when you work in this to use john deere seals for Those that keep the steering fibers dry. Normally i use after market seals and bearing exept for there... That worth the extra bucks to protect a steering replacement investment!

Also to remove the quills, if i remember, it is best to remove steering clutch housing. At least on one side. I snapped a spring anchor on the quill trying to pry it out...

Good luck with this repair. Keep us posted!
440IC 1958 #443712, 602 blade, Gearmatic winch project in the back
440IC, serial tag gone, Blade with tilt
-------------------------------------------------------

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