JD 350C Brake Band Replacement

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Mon May 27, 2013 5:31 pm

New to the forum and new owner of a JD 350C. Bought the machine knowing the LH Steering was gone. Checked the adjuster and it appears to be severly worn. I thought I could replace the brake band without pulling the track, no luck.

Really need some help on how to seperate the track and pull the sprocket and bull gear to access the brake band. Any tips or links to other posts would be greatly appreciated. Not sure the level of difficulty.

As well, the price for a brake band from JD is over $1000

. However, on ebay the same part can be bought for $250 (pretty substancial savings). Anyone ever purchased an aftermarket band and had some success ?

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue May 28, 2013 7:54 am

I stock the same band for $200.
Lavoy

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Tue May 28, 2013 6:03 pm

If I can figure out how to split the track I'll order one from you if that is an option.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed May 29, 2013 7:48 am

Ok, I just reread your post, and I lied to you. I don't have the C model band in stock, but no problem getting them, slightly higher in price, but not much.
Laovy

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Sun Jun 02, 2013 2:30 pm

How can I order this part from you ? Need your contact information.

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 4:57 pm

Split the track now looking at having to remove the housing / bull gear assembly to access the brake band. I read that the clutch and brake band can be removed by pulling just the clutch drive shaft ??? Anyone heard of this or has done it ?

It would save a lot of time if I can just remove the 3 cap screws and pull the drive cover and not the whole assembly. Apparently by pulling the drive shaft out and holding the clutch pack in place it can come out of the top of the access lid ....

I'm going to try it if it looks risky than I'll refer to the service manual and pull the housing cover. Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

Still can't believe the amount of work involved to replace a brake band.

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Mon Jun 10, 2013 10:38 pm

Sorry to say, but you need to remove the final drive to remove the steering clutch on every model of 350 crawler. Only 450 models come out the top so take another peak in your service manual. I like to have 2 books, one for reading in the house at night or during a coffee break and another one to get dirty in the shop. I still use them regularly just to make sure everything is put back together properly and functioning. I'm no expert just lots of experience watching and doing.

It's not very often that a brake will wear out on a C model, so make sure your absolutely certain there is no adjustment left. Make sure that your tracks are properly clutching before braking. I test this by pulling both steering clutches back while in gear, should not be any change in rpm's or movement of the crawler. Wet clutch machines have an auto brake adjuster that can over adjust and make the machine feel like there is a clutch or brake issue.

For reassembly remember that you need the proper gasket material / silicone as this is a fluid filled cavity.

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 4:48 am

I have already had the top cover off and the brake adjustment is all the way to the end. I managed to get another half turn out of the adjuster, put it all back together and no change. The pad must be completely worn off. What is weird is the R/S band has tons of adjustment left. Not sure if the original owner turned one way or was one handed ? Don't believe this machine has ever been apart.

No issues with the clutches it appears to be working fine.

Appreciate the feedback I will ensure I have some silicone on hand and hopefully it comes apart not to bad. I have been reading the service manual almost every day just to make sure I'm prepared. I find the service manual details to be lack in some areas so its always good to get some feedback from someone who has done this before.

Post by **Lavoy** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:27 am

Cell is 701-361-1006, e-mail is at the bottom of any post I make.
Lavoy

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 6:10 pm

The only other question I have is should I do the clutch as well while I have it this far apart ? The machine has 4400 hours and doesn't appear to be abused. The clutches seem to work fine and these wet clutch machines are suppose to be fairly reliable from what I hear. Furthermore, it won't see over a 100 hours a year.

I hate to take something apart that isn't broke plus the risk factor of damaging a seal or ? when putting it back together.

Any feedback is much appreciated.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 6:27 pm

if you are that far into it i would reseal the clutch and check the clutch discs for thickness i would think the spec. is in the service manual

JWB Contracting · Post by **JWB Contracting** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 7:15 pm

I would also replace the oil ring in the clutch.

Yes, the manuals don't tell you everything or the easiest way to get the job done.

We have a piece of angle iron with holes drilled to match the clutch shaft cover with a lifting eye on top and a 2" piece of piping sticking outwards. Gives you something to lift on and a handle for lining up the final drive when you reinstall it.

Still seems strange that the brake band is that loose, almost like one of the brake band retainers have come loose.

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Wed Jun 12, 2013 5:57 pm

Thanks for the tips, much appreciated. I will make up a jig as you described to help with removal of the housing.

Should I really be concerned with the cluch on the "C" ? Talking to a few guys the wet clutches should last quite sometime. You gentleman are the experts so if you recommend it than I will look at doing it. If I have it apart should I not just go ahead an replace the friction discs ? Trying to avoid any further downtime.

I think the brake band was out of adjustment and must have worn pre maturely. The previous owner did very little maintenance with the exception of fluid changes. Probably something he could have avoided.

The service manual calls out for a leak down on the clutch pack. Is this necessary ? I will need to rig something up if it is ..... appreciate any feedback.

sullyt28 · Post by **sullyt28** » Wed Jul 17, 2013 4:32 pm

Just a quick update. The brake band was actually broken (split at the welded tab) which would explain why the auto adjuster was all the way in. I have the drive housing removed, the band replaced (thanks to Lavoy) and going to put it back together. (not going to touch the clutches as they appear in good condition). Pulling the wet clutch seems to be another risk in not getting everything back together right.

Looking at the service manual it says to remove the drive axle and install it prior to putting the drive gear back on. I was just going to install the drive housing with the drive gear in place and attempt to slide the drive shaft back in the clutch housing the way it came out. Anyone know if this will be okay or whether I should pull the drive per the manual and install it first ?

Just checking to see I'm not missing something.

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