1010ICD Engine Rebuild

[Jason Z in MO]

After a long delay I am finally assembling the diesel engine for my 1010 industrial dozer. The old engine was completely shot. Sleeves were scored, pistons had broken rings and skirt diameter was under size spec. Long story short, I have a lot of parts invested in this thing!

I fixed the oil pump pickup casting by using a table top belt sander to remove the wear. I insured flatness with a file, bluing and a known flat plate. See pictures:

Before - the one on the right is the correct one for the crawler engine. On the left is a pickup from a parts pump. It couldn't be used since it's about an inch shorter.


After:


Other engine shots:




I replaced the rocker arm tube with new cork plugs cut from a wine cork. I shaved it down for an oversize fit. I had a metal funnel with a tapered neck which fit perfectly to tap the cork through the neck and into the tube.
Question, is there a better material then cork to plug the tube?

[jtrichard]

cork will be fine especially with the "press fit" you have.... did you make sure that the first and last rockers will get oil? if the corks are to long they might cover the oil holes

[Jason Z in MO]

Thanks for asking. I'm a novice and appreciate any advice. I did cut them short enough not to block the oil holes for those rockers.

Jason

[jtrichard]

if you have not put the pump back together you can check to see how flat you have the surface by using some 400 to 600 wet or dry sand paper with diesel fuel on a heavy piece of glass and it will show real quick how flat it is.... how did you seal the bottom of the sleeve deck? that is a weak point.. JD is proud of their parts aren't they i bought one of those shafts before I still have it never put it in ..found a cherry shaft and rockers for $75 at that time JD wanted something like $750 for the shaft and rockers with out Vaseline

[Jason Z in MO]

Oh you know it! The highest price item was the sleeve deck. They are hard to find and will soon be very hard to rebuild these engines. Bearings, rings, etc I found after market in Iowa. Pistons are used also from Iowa. I had the crank turned, rods resized.

For the sleeve deck I used the square cut O-rings with Permatex Aviation form-a-gasket. please don't tell me I have to open it back up...!

[jtrichard]

i used the spray Permatex which worked great just used a ton of it LOL you should be fine

[Jason Z in MO]

I'm about to install the turbulence chambers. Book says to lubricate the o-ring with green soap, grease or oil to prevent the o-ring from getting cut during installation. I was planning to use form-a-gasket here as well. Any issues with this plan?

And another thing that bugs me... manual also says to retorque head, turbulence chamber, and injector bolts after 30 minutes of 1/2 load. No issues with this except the head bolts. Its a pain to pull the valve cover! Is it really necessary? Did they do it at the factory?

[Jason Z in MO]

One more question about the valve cover... which I think is the wrong name for this part since its also serves as a coolant manifold, and intake plenum!

Anyway, the question is what is recommended while installing the cover gasket? Dry or with some sealant at least around the coolant ports? Manual does not say either way.

[jtrichard]

as for the chambers i would do as the book says(oil probably) ...on the rocker cover i used the spray Permatex (extra coat or two both sides around the ports).... on mine i did not re-torque (did you put oil on the threads and under the bolt heads??) any of the bolts on the head or chambers.... that cover(and fuel tank) is a pain to re-toque bolts

[whiteclipse16]

Good luck with the rebuild Jason.
Pay close attention when putting the oil pump and injector pump in, they have to be timed together with the cam.
We just did what you're doing, our deck was cracked bad on one of the cylinders. That sleeved deck was very pricey. We looked at buying a 2010 gas and pulling that motor and using it but in the long run it was easier and almost cheaper to bite the bullet and buy the new sleeved deck from Deere.

My brother finally got it started for the first time in about 6 years on Saturday. We had the motor back in, in August or so but the injector pump was shot. It took the guy this long to get it rebuilt, oh well, didn't cost us hardly anything.

[Jason Z in MO]

Happy New Year all!

I may smear a little goo on the o-ring sealing surfaces just to be sure. The metal is mostly clean but not freshly milled like it was in the factory. I did lube the head bolt threads but I missed the bolt heads. Perhaps I should take them up to 155 instead of 150 lbs. After I do get it running I might check the torque on the exposed head bolts. If they are significantly different I might consider surgery... I will probably run it on a small temporary tank. I made on out of a plastic lawnmower tank.

Ben, I did time the pump at #1 TDC to point toward #4 cylinder. It did re-read the description from the manual to make sure I had it right. If there was a picture or diagram they could have included in the manual it would have been one of the correct position of the gear!

My original deck was worn badly but wasn't cracked. However, the webbing down where the cylinders seal against the block were cracked and leaking coolant into the oil so I had to find another block too.

As Lavoy has always said there is nothing cheap about crawlers!

[whiteclipse16]

Sounds like you were very thorough with your rebuild.
It's been too cold here to mess with ours anymore. We have to get the glow plugs wired up, but it's outside and we don't need it so we're in no rush.

Yes a picture or something in the book would've been great. We had that pump in and out 3 or 4 times before we got it right. It wanted to turn slightly as it cogged into the cam.
Keep us posted.