440 icd wont push much

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 5:32 pm

I am having a real problem with this old beast and I know there is a fix, I jsut need to get there,

I have adjusted the reverser as directed in the manual and now got it adjusted perfectly. The steering clutches are all good too and the final drives have been rebuilt, with new clutch plates and disks. The ole beast was working fine for a short period of time, however a problem occurred shortly after the final drive rebuild. The beast just wont push or climb hills, it just sits there with the engine running, not stalling out,like it did before.

Now I am thinking its the main clutch issue, or the reverser, When i look at the rebuilt steering clutches, they are clean and dry, and when i walk the beast on flat ground both tracks pull equally and she drives in a straight line.

Any suggestion? At this time I am ready to pull the motor out and replace the clutch, and whlle i am there, I would also be prepared to do the reverser. However I am hoping i can make a few adjustments and get her to push the snow into the back field.

440 iron popper · Post by **440 iron popper** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 10:12 pm

Hi,

I don't know much about reversers because both of my 440 have a bypass shaft through the case but one thing you can do is look where it quits spinning. That will isolate the problem. You have to do the checks in the situation that creates the problem, pushing or climbing. Something is slipping or there is a shaft that is stripped or something...

There are drum plugs on the reverser where you can check if it turns in there. No rotation would be a main clutch problem or stipped shaft between reverser and motor. If you have rotation, the transmission should rotate as well in gear. I think that with the diesel 440, there is an inspection plate on top of the trans to inspect the differentiel gear. It should turn in gear.

If it turns and there is no power to the tracks, look in the steering clutches inspection cover. No rotation in there: the inside of the differentiel hub may be stripped. Rotation of the brake drums and no power to the tracks :slipping of the clutches.

Hopefully it is just an adjustement issue... if not you may have to split it after you find the cause.

I had a final drive failure with one 440 and i found out later that i needed an input shaft for the transmission... Splines were almost gone. An heavy load or a sudden bump would have strip them.

I hope this helps and good luck.

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Mon Jan 06, 2014 11:13 pm

thanks for the info, You provided a lot of information on diagnostics, that once you explained it to me, makes perfect sense. I will try it tomorrow and hopefully I can solve this riddle.

Ray III · Post by **Ray III** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 3:25 am

If you have a winch or PTO it can help you narrow it down. Pull some cable out and engage the winch or engage the PTO and watch the shaft. If they continue to rotate after the crawler stops moving, the transmission is still turning so the steering clutches must be slipping. If everything stops, it's the main clutch.

original possum · Post by **original possum** » Tue Jan 07, 2014 6:30 pm

If it has more push in the lower gears than the higher than the problem is in front of the transmission. If the gear makes no difference the trouble is behind the transmission.

Post by **Lavoy** » Wed Jan 08, 2014 4:29 pm

Do you have freeplay in the main clutch?
Lavoy

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 11:35 am

i got everything adjusted according to the manual, and there is a big difference now, However, I took a small cover off the side of where the clutch is, I think its to grease the throw out bearing as there is a grease nipple there. however when i looked inside with a flash light i notice there is lots of grease and oil inside that area. This seems strange as i would think it would be preferable to stay dry in that area.

under further inspection, i think the valve cover gasket is leaking down the back side of the engine and perhaps weeping in between the engine block and transmission case.

If this is the case, i think i need a valve cover gasket, and new friction disk.

Any feed back.

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 3:14 pm

You may be on to something there. Any oil contamination on the clutch disc will cause the clutch to slip, as will over zealous greasing of the throw-out bearing, but that is more rare. If the clutch is original, springs might be getting weak, or you may be towards the end of your adjustment which means there is less clutch pressure.
Not a bad fix, but you have to pull the engine which sucks. Parts are no problem.
Lavoy

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 5:20 pm

how would i adjust the clutch? When i look at the manual, it only speaks to adjustment of the pedal. I will look at the manual over again

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 8:42 pm

That is the adjustment of the clutch, you control how much freeplay the pedal has, should be an inch to inch and half.
Lavoy

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Thu Jan 23, 2014 10:48 pm

ok, thanks, thought so, Its adjusted correctly then,

frozendozer · Post by **frozendozer** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:18 am

took the cat to the farm yesterday, and boy does it push snow nice. Thanks all for advice. I am planning to change the main clutch and get it ready to do some dirt moving this spring

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 1:30 pm

took the cat to the farm yesterday

On this site, we use another term for our green beauties.

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Fri Jan 31, 2014 8:34 pm

Paul NOT all of them are GREEN

Paul Buhler · Post by **Paul Buhler** » Sun Feb 02, 2014 3:07 pm

Oops, I stand corrected.

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440 icd wont push much

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