1010 hydrolic filtration

crj · Post by **crj** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 8:45 pm

Can anyone tell me what there is for hydrolic filtration on a diesel 1010 with 6 way blade. I'm trying to catch up to all my leaks, replacing hoses and cylinders. Being as how most of my system will now be empty I plan on draining reservoir and replacing fluid and what ever kind of filter or suction screen is used (is this possible with out removing tank).

Post by **Lavoy** » Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:20 pm

No filter on a dozer crawler, just a magnetic drain plug.
Lavoy

crj · Post by **crj** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 7:36 am

my system is a mess, installing cylinder kits won't help (scored barrels). Compared to rebuilding cylinders adding a filter sounds cheap, what are my options?

Post by **Lavoy** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 8:35 am

IF there is enough room, you can put a universal inline spin on filter in the return line. Somewhere in Show and Tell there should be a pic of the one I put on a 440.
Lavoy

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Fri Jan 17, 2014 2:38 pm

crj.
I Used a Lisle Cylinder Hone to take the gouges out of a friends cylinders on his IH dozer.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lil-1 ... 7AodJGYAWw
Then I turned new pistons for them. It stopped the bypassing of the hydraulic fluid and the blade stays up now.
It took a lot of passes to remove the majority of the gouges, he wanted to keep the dozer original, the wall thickness was more than adequate to remove the gouges without compromising the cylinders strength.
Dan.

crj · Post by **crj** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:10 am

thanx for input. I can install spin on as you did, just have to remove factory steel pipe and use hose. I think it's cheap insurance. Honing cylinders is something I can look at later on as long as I have dozer usable in mean time, machining piston is the only holdback. How did you decide o-ring and seal size ?

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:06 am

If you take your cylinder to a local hydraulic shop they can bore/hone it for you and they will have matching seals, etc. I used to try to do the easier jobs myself, but I found that the prices, around here anyway, are reasonable and they have the right equipment and parts.

One suggestion, if you want to keep the original piston and still need to enlarge the cylinder walls a little, tell the shop that you will sign the receipt saying that you will not hold them liable for the repair. They are used to making repairs for commercial companies and sometimes in life threating applications. They may not mind doing it for you but they don't want their reputation or liability damaged. Gil

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 1:25 pm

Your cylinders have leather cup seals, not O-rings, no such thing as oversize really. Hone the bore, put in new cups, they are very forgiving unless you have major pitting or erosion. All you are out are some cups if it doesn't work.
Lavoy

crj · Post by **crj** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 5:27 pm

I originally took the first cylinder to hydrolic shop and got back a box of parts that I just now pieced together. Yes I see the cups that go on the piston and there is one large and one small o-ring under the seal on head which is held in with a snap ring (actually a wire)pulled tight with threaded ring. Right? This cylinder is to far gone to repair so purchased a pair that are close (same measurment closed but 2in. longer stoke which is down on blade which doesn't matter because there isn't enough power to take that big of a cut anyway). Had to build new threaded ends on rod and grind out ears on cylinder end (very little 1/16 each side) to make fit.Hopefully angle cylinders can be honed and have new kits put in. They shouldn't have as much wear and I can see that the cups should work just fine with a hone job.

Lu47Dan · Post by **Lu47Dan** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:11 pm

Hmmm...
Leather cup seals, I did not think they would be used on a 1010. IIRC the cylinders on my 420 use a set of o-rings to seal the pistons, OEM JD cylinders. I have to rebuild both of them.
Dan.

Post by **Lavoy** » Sat Jan 18, 2014 7:18 pm

Never seen a factory blade cylinder with anything other than leather cups up to at least 1010 if not 350. Same for loaders up to 440 I know.
Lavoy

jtrichard · Post by **jtrichard** » Sun Jan 19, 2014 12:04 am

with just about any hydraulic shop if the cylinders are not perfect they wont repack/rebuild them .....i have the cylinders on the rippers on my 2010 and some idiots used them as push blocks i had to put them in a press and try to get them as round as possible then take a sunnen hone to the bore got it some what round and smooth not perfect by far.... had to grind down the pistons a smidge so they would not bind up.... put new cups in and they have been just fine ....they may not last as long as new cylinders but i can get a new kit once in awhile for one heck of a lot less

Gil · Post by **Gil** » Sun Jan 19, 2014 8:05 am

I am embarrassed at some of the cylinders I have taken to my local hydraulic shop. Cylinders with gouges a hone would never touch. Even a bent rod... that I told the shop was "kind of straight". Maybe they are just used to dealing with farmers who want to save some money, but they are willing to tackle jobs with no guarantees. And they always try their best.

And sure enough, some of the cylinders leak down after being rebuilt. For example one of my JD440 backhoe outriggers (the one with the bent rod) leaks down in about 5 minutes. But by then I am usually on to a new digging position or I just bump the lever to get it up again. Sure saved some money on a piece of equipment that I only use a couple of times a year.

My long term solution is always to save up enough money to buy another backhoe. Then I get two more outriggers plus a bunch of other parts; and I fill in those empty spaces around the barn. Gil

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1010 hydrolic filtration

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