Going through a 1953 Model 40C so it will haul logs

General help and support for your Lindeman through 2010 John Deere crawler
jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

Going through a 1953 Model 40C so it will haul logs

Post by jim-e » Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:36 pm

Recently bought a Ser. No 63186 Model 40C crawler from Bacon Eqpt. They had to repair the left final drive (only had a small deposit w/option to bale) so that boosted price. Anyway i am not too slowly getting it in shape to haul some modest plus pine logs no more than 900 yards to my band saw mill.
So far i have: rebuilt starter (everything 12v neg. grnd.), set timing, adjusted valves and set carb. Starts and runs real well now. Picked up an original operator's manual (great!) and a service manual that covers many models (thumbs almost down). Winch is not working and there is still a little water in hydraulics. Has off the shelf ND 30W oil in engine. So i am hoping to get the correct engine oil in there and the correct hydraulic fluid. Manual calls for 20W engine and 10W hydraulic. I'm a big fan of synthetic oil but based on the inside of the valve cover the engine needs some serious flushing cleaning. Have pics on rcgroups.com under jim e in the blogs section posted today(more pics in comments)[/img] http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... st27749473
Last edited by jim-e on Tue Mar 11, 2014 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Mar 10, 2014 6:43 pm

I have run synthetic in these crawlers for over 20 years, won't hurt a thing. It will tend to try and clean the insides up, so may want to up change interval for a while.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

various weights of oils

Post by jim-e » Tue Mar 11, 2014 6:53 am

Thanks for the response.
Questions: 1. what weight of oil should i use a)now b) in the summer?
2. 80 or 90W gear oil ok for tranny and final drive?
3. Recommendation(s) for the 11 quarts of hydraulic fluid?

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Tue Mar 11, 2014 8:59 am

I run 75W-90 year round in finals and tranny. AW42 hyd oil for hydraulics.
Laovy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
Owner and moderator www.jdcrawlers.com

jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

hydraulic oil

Post by jim-e » Mon Mar 17, 2014 10:31 am

Going to stay with the 30W ND until i clean out the oil pan. Got plenty of 85-90 gear oil, both from local tractor supply. Could not find AW42 hydraulic oil. The local John Deere place recommended Hyguard (course they lost their dealership recently so hard to say how reliable that recommendation is) and i am not sure on how to proceed on getting the winch going. Engine sure does run good now.
Last edited by jim-e on Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Mon Mar 17, 2014 12:49 pm

HyGard will work, you will lose some pressure and they tend to squeal more.
Lavoy
Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

AW32

Post by jim-e » Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:30 am

Please excuse my being so dense but the most sensible hydraulic oil i have found so far is NAPA AW32 which should be equivalent to 10W oil as called for in the manual. Would that be okay to run? Will not be working crawler that hard, especially in the hot summer months. Also found some "instead of lead" gasoline additive and will be adding that to gas.
Last edited by jim-e on Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:51 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Lavoy
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Post by Lavoy » Wed Mar 19, 2014 6:32 am

That will work fine.
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Parts and restoration for antique and late model John Deere crawlers.
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jim-e
40C crawler
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Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

dragged first small logs

Post by jim-e » Mon Mar 24, 2014 11:37 am

Serviced right side final drive (changed gear oil); hydraulics will need several changes as well as engine, tranny good. Drained and refilled winch (did search and read some helpful posts on the gearmatic 8A) though undoubtedly needs some slave cylinder work so still not working and will not try until i rebuild control, learn more Tried to move one of the 24"+ dia. logs-no go. Will have to section to final length (12'-13') before trying again. Will not be carrying anything in my coat pocket again-lost old camera. Little logs easy to move. Starts immediately, oil pressure a little lower when warmed but still within safe range. Brake band on the repaired final drive not great under load(squawkes some). Sprockets rather worn but pins appear good. First time ever driving a crawler- got to learn how to lock the brakes so i don't end up a pancake. Thanks for all the help. jim
Last edited by jim-e on Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Stan Disbrow
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Post by Stan Disbrow » Mon Mar 24, 2014 1:15 pm

Hi,

My 420c has a notched brake pedal shank, and a flip up 'lever' (for want of a better word). I call it a PIA, actually. But, not as much of a PIA as those little twirling cam things on my M wheel tractor brake pedals.

I think the 40c was the same as the 420c as far as the parking brake goes....

Stan
There's No Such Thing As A Cheap Crawler!

Useta Have: '58 JD 420c 5-roller w/62 inside blade
Useta Have: '78 JD350C w/6310 outside blade
Useta Have: '68 JD350, '51 Terratrac GT-25
Have: 1950 M, 2005 x495, 2008 5103 (now known as 5045D)

jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

Thanks Stan

Post by jim-e » Thu Mar 27, 2014 6:17 am

For help. Turns out the footpad is missing the lever and everything- even the attachment bolts are broken off. A neighbor has a three roller 40C (or MC) and his has the complete assembly so i will use that as i guide to make up something comparable. Mostly working on the winch- got the 1.5" rubber cups for the control, will lightly hone cyliders but mainly i have to take apart the slave cylinder side to rebuilt, clean up and get it to work! Plus almost half the pads need tightening.

jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

pads tightened

Post by jim-e » Fri Mar 28, 2014 8:49 am

Actually about a third of the pads were loose (18+-) and it took the application of heat and hammering down the bolt heads that were somewhat "proud" and the old breaker bar/cheater pipe to adequately tighten the pads. One is a little bent (curled) near the outside edge but should be okay. Would love to hear from someone how to proceed in removeing the cover on the right side of 8A winch. Do i just take of the outer bolts and leave the adjustable notched center disc alone? I did search and find some pics of the inner workings but not sure of how to dismantle to that point.

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Paul Buhler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Fri Mar 28, 2014 10:41 am

Jim: There are a couple of ways that work.

Remove the banjo fitting and put the parts in a safe place.

If the inner bearing retainer (threaded ~3" diameter) is easily removable, this will allow access to the main bearing for easier removal of the cover and viewing of the process involved. Open the side barrel bung as well for viewing as needed.

If the retainer is stuck, the way I removed my side cover the first time was to clean out and chase the threads on the jacking holes, remove the outside bolts, and SLOWLY jack the cover away from the housing. I used a gentle touch and tapping with a lead mallet so that the cover would slide off the main bearing. I worked to keep the cover parallel to the housing so that the cover wouldn't bind on the bearing and crack. The cover is caste, and cracking it just makes for a bad day.

Here are some pictures of the cover , parts and main bearing
http://s460.photobucket.com/user/pbuhle ... %20rebuild

Good luck. Paul
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

jim-e
40C crawler
40C crawler
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:54 pm
Location: Northfield MA

8A gearmatic

Post by jim-e » Sat Mar 29, 2014 3:46 pm

Thanks Paul. Turns out cover came off easily. Looks like the contaminated brake fluid seeped into bearing so it is slighty rough in one spot. The brake bands look bad- heavily contaminated, a little chunk missing near the attachment point. Top brake cylinder was completely retracted but i was able to remove the piston with a bit of heat. Bore looks okay- steel sleeve in aluminum. Where fitting goes in needs redoing-fitting had epoxy to effect a seal which did not work.
So how do i proceed to complete disassembly? Does center bearing require pulling before the circlip comes off to remove the inner drum? The clutch slave cylinder must need some honeing after all the water in the fluid. Is the rubber seal thet goes in the middle (behind banjo fitting) still available?
Drained the engine oil again- second time (1x equip dealer) since its been going with less than two hours operation. Hope that takes care of water.
Drained hydraulic fluid- lots of water- then flushed w/5 quarts of kerosene and ran 2 minutes following operator's manual instructions.
Did find the camera- only a slight dent in corner- drying it out now. Really hope i can get the winch going again by the end of april. Hub was locked with slave cylinder collapsed but now hub is free to spin. [/url]http://s749.photobucket.com/user/james-e/story/32463
Last edited by jim-e on Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:38 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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Paul Buhler
350 crawler
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Post by Paul Buhler » Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:53 pm

Jim:
I had to replace the main bearing in my winch too. When you get the bearing off, the circlip is exposed. I didn't need to remove the spider, so I didn't dig deeper. I did disassemble the clutch slave and cleaned it up, replaced the hose and rubber seals. I think Lavoy has/can get these parts. the "U" cup seal is available and is inexpensive.
Here's a link to the discussion when I did mine.
http://www.jdcrawlers.com/messageboard/ ... ight=winch
Paul Buhler
Killington, VT
420c 5 roll with 62 blade, FOPS, and Gearmatic 8a winch

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