Going through a 1953 Model 40C so it will haul logs

[jim-e]

Paul Thanks and please excuse my ignorance:
1. What puller is required to remove the bearing. I tried prying it evenly with two curved bars. Not much room behind bearing.
2. Don't know the place referred to as PB&H in NH.
3. it looks like you removed the brake band parts and i gather you did not remove the drum. My band does not seem to want to rotate and there is not much clearance (link to photo bucket in prior post done poorly but can be pasted to work).
4. Appears the seat to the bearing that normally goes in cover is stuck on the bearing.
Now have pics of winch insides on my first link (first post) on the 3rd posting on that blog entry, easier for me than photobucket

[Paul Buhler]

1. What puller is required to remove the bearing. I tried prying it evenly with two curved bars. Not much room behind bearing."
I used a three armed bearing puller with success - penetrating oil on the axle, some tapping and simultaneous tightening worked for me. I was careful, but I also was planning to replace the bearing so if it was damaged, I wouldn't have been too concerned. I removed the brake fluid center "nipple" so that I wouldn't damage it while using the puller. This center region is where the hydraulics work to activate the clutch slave while the winch is turning, and needs to be smooth and sealable by the "U cup" so that fluid doesn't leak onto the clutch bands.
2. Don't know the place referred to as PB&H in NH.
http://www.pbhequipment.com/
ask for Brain or Scott
3. it looks like you removed the brake band parts and i gather you did not remove the drum.
Correct, I had loose clutches and brake band, so I could clean up my drum while it was in place.
My band does not seem to want to rotate and there is not much clearance (link to photo bucket in prior post done poorly but can be pasted to work).
Somehow, the brake band needs to be unstuck from the clutch/brake drum for the winch to spin. Try a thin scraper or shortened hacksaw blade? Try not to ding up the drum too much, the brake band lining and clutch lining are probably trashed at this point and will need replacing at the least, so I'd considered the lining materials as disposable.
4. Appears the seat to the bearing that normally goes in cover is stuck on the bearing.
I'm not sure what you mean here. Your pictures show the bearing on the axle and the cover removed. I used heat and a gentle touch to get the bearing retainer out of the cover without damage, then cleaned up the threads and liberally applied grey "Never Seize". Now I need to make a "key" to keep the retainer from vibrating loose.

I hope this helps. Other's on this board have dug into their winches more and may have other ideas as well. The insides of your winch look in a lot better shape than many that I've seen, The oily surfaces might allow some things to come apart more easily Good luck. Paul

I've forgotten, do you have a winch manual? If not, send me an email and I can send you a .pdf of mine.

[jim-e]

Thanks again, Paul.
Will get a three jaw puller- also will be replacing bearing as it's quite rusty. Was thinking of need for knife edge puller, not necessary.
Removed two neopreme cups from the threaded/notched bearing retainer, then as you did used heat and a brass drift to loosen. Do have the lock tab.
Thanks for business name and contacts.
Currently the banjo fitting has an aluminun washer under bolt head but no washer between inner surface of casting and bearing adjuster/retainer. (So it would be great if you could send me pdf. on winch , sending e-mail-thanks).
The hacksaw blade to remove lining is an excellent idea though i may try to get drum off. The machine shop i frequent is supposed to do an excellent job on relining bands. The starter motor certainly works great after they reolaced armature and rebuilt.

[Paul Buhler]

Sounds like you know how to proceed carefully. Good luck as you dig deeper into your winch. Mine has served me well.

[jim-e]

Did not realize entire drum is one piece and is held by inner bearings/shaft. Too bad there is so much clearance drum to body to let in rain and dirt. anyway contact surfaces will have to be cleaned in place. The manual said could use the tapped holes on three armed casting to also push off the outer bearing so i did. Had removed inner band and lastly removed outer three strip brake band. There is quite a bit of difference in drum wear between primary and secondary clutch bands. Inner bearing seems okay. So off to nearby machine shop/parts store to see about bearing and bands relining and some brake cylider parts. Will post pics in the comments section of rcgroups blog listed earlier. Thanks for help Paul. jim

[jim-e]

Thanks to Paul's help was able to get the u-seals mailed from Antrim NH. Control cylinders are honed and ready for assembly with new rubber cups. Still waiting for machine shop to reline brake and clutch bands. Cleaned the housing and drum with brake cleaner but wanting to lash down cable/hook and spin up drum to "flat stone" it to take away some rust and pitting especially on the outside/brake surface.
Engine starts and runs very well but oil pressure is on lowest end of green zone now that it is warmer outside. Kind of busy now with putting a roof on the post and beam garage started over a year ago but still need to haul some pine and oak to mill to make joists, siding, and a few oak parts. Hoping to get winch running by early May-with at least some improvement to the connection to spinning drum (nipple/u-seal)

[jim-e]

Winch clutch and brake bands are being relined at Cowan's machine shop in Greenfield MA. They did an excellent job on the starter motor. The control cylinders are pitted at the end of travel and the better one still has a "step" on the bottom after honeing. Very reluctant to purchase 2 stainless sleeves for about $500. Grainger's has some bronze sleeve bearings the correct size for sleeving for less than fifty bucks each- would that be acceptable? White Post Restorations rebuilds brake cylinders using brass sleeves (for about $225 each for the control cylinders) so i could have cylinders rebuilt locally for not much more than one hundred smackers each if the bronze sleeves were compatible. Crawlers has been hauling moderate sized pine logs (24" dia. big end x 13') though the repaired final drive needs an adjustment (brake). Will do it today. Been working on a post and beam garage, mostly alone, for over a year (sawing all lumber ex. plywood roof decking) and finally got the roof decked and one quarter tar papered w/strips for "cool" metal roof.

[jim-e]

Hope i am getting close to having winch operational. My lack of experience and the top priorities (garage) have pushed it back. Have a slew of questions but first a link to some pics (#4,5,6)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... st28651240
1. Went with 3/16" lining on brake because i did not think i could squeeze in 1/4" lining. Will that work or re do it to 1/4"?
2. The short spacer tube in the winchdrum brake assmbly has been replaced with 3 nuts. Does anyone know the correct length of the short spacer tube so i can fabricate one? Also the length of the long tube?
3. Which way do the 3 round guide plates go- so that they are narrower or wider near the linings?
4. On the master control how will i know if the valve assemblies are still good? I still have to replace a couple of fittings, only honed the cylinders (swapped the heavily pitted clutch cylinder for the better condition brake cylinder,made new gaskets, put in new cups in master and slave cylinders and have been liberally using silicone brake fluid to assemble).
Have adjusted the primary and secondary clutch bands. The brake band is supposed to be tightened till spring is compressed but with the spacer tube situation have only tightened somewhat. New bearing is installed. Master control has one mounting tab broken off (and piece missing near hydraulic gland on side cover) so crawler whacked into something in the past. Fortunately crawler is doing well hauling the pine logs to be sawn, though with lots of dirt- winch would be a plus cheers jim