42000 jd 2010 timing

[dtoots1]

well got the oil pan off and back on now engine is unfroze and can turn by hand with a bar on the front pulley...
i understand firing order is 1 3 4 2 and number 1 on dist s/b towards the rad and seems to want to be closer to the engine side....i have timing mark on flywheel lined up and rotor points to the number 3 wire on distr......hmmmmm something not quite right...i had taken out distr but marked it very carefully to replace same as removed....however it may have been removed before as they claimed could not get parts for it...this is the one i spoke of before that actual name on it is autolite electric co serial number of trac is 34000 series so a bit old.
also i know it can be 180 degrees out....but i am by myself and cant turn engine over and hold thumb on #1 to check for compression...so i know i could be out the 180...
i note now...that book says if u go past 26 timing mark....DO NOT MOVE BACK must move forward all the way around.....now i may have moved it back and forth when i was trying to free up the rust lock in the cyls...did i screw something up and now have to tear down enough to get timing chain marks and oil pump timed to get back to distr timing???? did not do anything to the oil pump so it was never involved.....can i turn the oil pump slot to get back to the #1 on distr???? book says something about timing the oil pump but i havent read that yet..

one other question i just wonder if it makes a DIFFERENCE to the distr which one is used for the number 1 plug just so long as the firing order is in sequence...???
your help is appreciatted!
thks dtoots1

[Tigerhaze]

I'll try to give you my insight on a few of your questions.

-The other way to check for being 180 degrees out that you can do yourself is to pull the valve cover and when you get to were you think is TDC on the compression stroke stop and look at the valves for cylinder #1. If on the compression stroke than both valves will be closed (valve springs fully extended); if on exhaust stroke then the exhaust valve will be open (valve spring on exhaust valve compressed). However it may be more difficult to pull valve cover than it is worth finding a helper.

-I don't believe moving backwards actually does any physical damage to the distributor or timing chain. I believe it has more to do with not wanting people inadvertently loosening the crankshaft bolt accidentally by turning opposite the direction of rotation. However there is a possibility of an issue with the mechanical advance so maybe someone else can weigh in on this.

-On a non-computerized engine with mechanical/vacuum timing advance I don't think the distributor cares what post is used as #1 as long as sequence is in order of distributor rotation. The coil simply supplies power to the central terminal on the cap and the fires a spark as the rotor contacts each terminal on the cap. However it may or may not matter to the oil pump how it is orientated if driven by the distributor- I have diesels so can't answer that. The other reason for designating one terminal on distributor as #1 is consistency so that when others work on it and plug wires are removed they know which one is supposed to be #1 and sometimes with engine clearances against firewalls or fenders there is only one way the distributor will fit.

[dtoots1]

tiger, exhaust valve appears to be closed when i have the rotor pointing to the number one plug wire../.however the intact seems to be starting to open as is tite ie..is movement on exhaust tappet but not the intake..however the 26 line is not lined up for timing....it actually waits to get to number 3 wire....at least i think its number 3....i will look at it again...

also note that when i rotate engine...i have a bar fastened to the front pulley that is short enough to clear so am not on the center bolt of pulley...the rotor first points to number 3 on the mark and roll it second time and points to number 2 wires ......i could see it out 180 if 1 & 4 were getting the mark...

to time the oil pump with engine supposed to have timing tool..which i dont have and supposed to disengage oilpump from the cam line it up with the toool and back 1/8th turn and engage pump...the tool will then rotate back to correct setting when pump engaged and bolted back up....

dont know if can use flat screwdriver to line that up....i know we used to do that on the cars!!

thanks
dtoots1

[jtrichard]

did you remove the oil pump? if you did NOT then the distributor should only go in one way and will be in time..... if you did remove it you now have a mess....the slot in the drive gear is off center as is the tang on the distributor you time the oil pump NOT the distributor you only "FINE" tune the distributor....#one plug wire should be pretty much straight forward and #4 straight to the rear

[dtoots1]

jt....yup i did remove the distr....however i marked both it and the block and very carefully reinstalled it same way...as it went in the rotor followed the keyslot of the pump so shud be ok.

now this dist is actually set up with 2 setting kind of square to the front....i assumed that the one closest to engine was #1....however i now notice that the one further to the outside is marked with a white marker and can only assume that that is #1....that then makes the timing mark ok and appears to be in time.....had to go to bed to figure that out...could not figure why the marks lined up with 3 and 2 till i figured out that number one was to the outside of the block and was pointing to it...
now to assemble the front end rad etc and see if i can get compression and firing at the cyls

thks dtoots1

[jtrichard]

the question was did you remove the oil pump? as for the location of the wires who ever worked on it last may not have put the oil pump back exactly right so who knows where #1 really is by the book it is forward and kinda pointing at the oil filter

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

In his first post, he says he did not do anything involving the oil pump.

Of course, someone else could have long ago.

The distributor will still work no matter where Number One points. Get #1 on TDC and the rotor will point to where #1 actually is.

Stan

[jtrichard]

i just wanted to double check that the pump had not been removed ... we have to assume that since the last time the pan was off that it has ran ....so if the drive on the distributor is meshed the right way in the oil pump gear and the engine is on the timing mark on the flywheel TDC then where EVER the rotor is pointed will be #1 or #4 ...worse case after that is 180 out with the wires

[dtoots1]

ok now....we only have compression on 1 & 3 cyls...30 and 60 respect
i now have the int exh wtr mflds off and exh showing a large amount of loose rust.....probably at least a cup full setting right at ports....head now off and 1 & 3 cyls lots of loose rust gunked up with the oil i had put in cyls to loosen em up
suspect that 1 & 3 exh ports open and letting all that rust into cyls and probably interferring with the valves....odd that 2 & 4 have no compression....will be taking head to ma deeres to get valve job,....cyl plate looks ok from what i can see...i dont think any local machine shop and do unless have had experience with the dozers....
do not see any cracks or scores to create problem..

Lavoy...i will be needing some prices and any suggestions that u may haave as far as do i need to pull the cyls and plate and ballpark figure on what may need to be done?
is 2010 gas job...serial number 32487 have new oil pan gasket and valve cover gasket..valve cover not on yet nor now ...will also need oil filter not the spin on type..

incidentally....the air cleaner chamber at the top of unit was totally plugged with dirt and oil....must have been at least 3 inches deep..sure musta been choking the old girl... also the six walnuts in the rad couldnot have been much help

anyone interested in talking to me about this can call @ 330 858 9109

thks
dtoots1

[Tigerhaze]

....will be taking head to ma deeres to get valve job,....cyl plate looks ok from what i can see...i dont think any local machine shop and do unless have had experience with the dozers....
do not see any cracks or scores to create problem..

FYI, the engines on the 2010 are very similar to those used on the 2010 wheel tractors and some other Deere power plants used in combines and stationary equipment. I believe there are only some slight differences in the block accessory mounting points. My point is for this engine it is probably more important to find someone familiar with machining the older Deere engines than someone that has specifically worked on dozers.

[dtoots1]

ok heres the story....checked with farm local jd dealer parts servce etc..

first they say they dont work on the dozers as that is industrial....then they said they could work on it....but cannot give any quote and would take 2 wks to let me know......

so i took to local napa shop.....shop man takes it yesterday and today has it apart and.....rusted exhaust ports and valves....can do reseats...but need 4 exhaust valves...and ma deere cannot get them.......to do job will cost me $200 plus parts...assume he means valves ...he says he cant get them either.

ma deere says i need to go to industrial outfit to get..

Lavoy....do you have 4 exhaust valves for the pre 42000 2010's????
or anyone out there got them....is 4 cyl gas job..serial number is 32487

i will try t o contact Lavoy on pm or phone if i can find his number
thks
dtoots1

[Lavoy]

I am out of town til next week, but did one quick check, and it appears I can get them.
Lavoy

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Yes, you are running into the Yellow vs. Green Deere dealer issue.

There are very few dealers left which are both. I don't recall the split year exactly. Something like 1968 or thereabouts. In order for one to be both colors, they had to have been doing both prior to the split year....

Stan

[jtrichard]

On a 2010 be it wheel or track .....Green, Yellow or Pink polka dot ....the parts in the engine are the same they don't know what the outside color is

[Stan Disbrow]

Hi,

Yes, the 2010 marked the end of having crawlers for Green dealers. That is probably why the place he went to at first said No, but then said Yes. Someone likely said No because it is yellow then looked it up and found it listed under the Green 'puter system.

Not that they know what they are up against, which would explain their hesitation to estimate anything.

Stan